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Posts for: toptrainer
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Nov 30, 2012 10:22:13   #
I want to take some pictures this year in my new house with the tree lit and my son and some neighbors. I want to know what settings work with the camera to get the lights to shine and still get good light on my subject. I have a Canon T3I and an EF 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM , and a EF 50mm f/1.8 II,and a EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS. I have an AlienBee 800 flash and a 430 on camera flash with some studio lighting. The ceilings are cathedral ceilings and the room is @ 40x40 feet. I think that is all I need to supply, any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
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Sep 21, 2012 13:09:49   #
Thanks.
robert-photos wrote:
toptrainer wrote:
Also, any idea how to get my backdrop white. I am using an all white backdrop but when i take the picture it looks off white and I print it out it looks grey. I am using am Epson Artisan 837 to print.


Basically you need to separate the subject and background into two zones of lighting and super over-expose the background so that it is blown out.....or you can fix it in post process.

I'm sure there are a number of "how to" videos on YouTube for both methods. Google "how to get backgrounds to white".

Good luck :thumbup:
quote=toptrainer Also, any idea how to get my bac... (show quote)
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Sep 21, 2012 12:40:35   #
Also, any idea how to get my backdrop white. I am using an all white backdrop but when i take the picture it looks off white and I print it out it looks grey. I am using am Epson Artisan 837 to print.
robert-photos wrote:
toptrainer wrote:
Canon EOS REBEL T3i EF50mm f/1.8 II1/5 sec; f/22; ISO 400Aperture priority; Evaluative metering. I had 2 lights setup about 1\2 a foot from the subject, fired my alien bee 800 on 1/2 power in front and just above camera through a white umbrella. this should have been all the light i need but still blury.


At f/22 you are getting diffraction blur. See:
http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/diffraction-photography.htm

The sweet (sharpest) spot of that 50mm f/1.8 lens is probably between f/5.6 to f/8 which will allow you to lower your ISO to 200 and increase your shutter speed to 1/20 or 1/40 sec.
These adjustments should result in a sharper photo and your DOF will still be OK...for a DOF table see:
http://www.dofmaster.com/doftable.html
quote=toptrainer Canon EOS REBEL T3i EF50mm f/1.8... (show quote)
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Sep 21, 2012 12:35:59   #
thank you, i will try it later after work and post another picture.
robert-photos wrote:
toptrainer wrote:
Canon EOS REBEL T3i EF50mm f/1.8 II1/5 sec; f/22; ISO 400Aperture priority; Evaluative metering. I had 2 lights setup about 1\2 a foot from the subject, fired my alien bee 800 on 1/2 power in front and just above camera through a white umbrella. this should have been all the light i need but still blury.


At f/22 you are getting diffraction blur. See:
http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/diffraction-photography.htm

The sweet (sharpest) spot of that 50mm f/1.8 lens is probably between f/5.6 to f/8 which will allow you to lower your ISO to 200 and increase your shutter speed to 1/20 or 1/40 sec.
These adjustments should result in a sharper photo and your DOF will still be OK...for a DOF table see:
http://www.dofmaster.com/doftable.html
quote=toptrainer Canon EOS REBEL T3i EF50mm f/1.8... (show quote)
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Sep 20, 2012 22:53:28   #
I used a remote to fire the camera, that background is also grey when I print it out.
sarge69 wrote:
You've got great light throughout the photo. It seems your focus is off. Did you press the button yourself ?

Maybe a remote shutter or at least set the shutter for 2 second or 10 and no finger on the button ?

Sarge69
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Sep 20, 2012 22:31:11   #
Canon EOS REBEL T3i EF50mm f/1.8 II1/5 sec; f/22; ISO 400Aperture priority; Evaluative metering. I had 2 lights setup about 1\2 a foot from the subject, fired my alien bee 800 on 1/2 power in front and just above camera through a white umbrella. this should have been all the light i need but still blury.


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Aug 29, 2012 22:13:00   #
I bought a used Minolta light meter 3, and thank you for the compliment.
bkyser wrote:
You've really taken the info from Captain C and others, and put it to good use. Just remember, get the basics and learn it all inside and out. Don't fall into the trap of buying everything you find that is a good deal. That's how I...and many others I know, have ended up with tons of extra equipment, modifiers, bodies, lenses. None of that helps with your eye. Your last shot of your son is excellent.

What brand of light meter did you end up with? My old (35 year old) Sekonic crapped out on me, and I'm looking to find a reliable, easy, and inexpensive model. I don't need or want bells and whistles, just light readings.
You've really taken the info from Captain C and ot... (show quote)
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Aug 28, 2012 06:54:24   #
Like new so far-
Festina Lente wrote:
GoofyNewfie wrote:
http://www.paulcbuff.com/b800.php
As the Car Talk guys say, "What color is it?"

But how well does it run?
http://www.paulcbuff.com/e640.php
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Aug 27, 2012 16:32:19   #
Yellow
GoofyNewfie wrote:
http://www.paulcbuff.com/b800.php
As the Car Talk guys say, "What color is it?"
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Aug 27, 2012 16:27:16   #
An Alien bee 800, saw it at a pawn shop. They told me they had 4 of them and this was the Last one.[quote=PhotoGator][quote=toptrainer]Got mine for 50.00 could not pass it up.

CaptainC wrote:
toptrainer wrote:
Thank you, I also just picked up today an alienbee 800. Now to figure out how to use it.
CaptainC wrote:


Alien Bee, Photogenic, Norman, flashlight, Sun, a candle, car headlights....all just light. Light is light - some sources are just easier to move around. :-)

Two principles to always keep in mind:
1. The larger the source IN RELATION TO THE SUBJECT, the softer the light.
2. Inverse square law - If you double the distance you get 1/4 the light. If you halve the distance you get 4x the light.
Thank you, I also just picked up today an alienbee... (show quote)


TopTrainer, what did you get for $50 and where?
quote=toptrainer Thank you, I also just picked up... (show quote)
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Aug 27, 2012 16:16:26   #
Looks brand new, I need a sync cord that I will get tomorrow for 15.00.
GoofyNewfie wrote:
toptrainer wrote:
Got mine for 50.00 could not pass it up.



!!!! Nice catch!
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Aug 27, 2012 16:07:56   #
Got mine for 50.00 could not pass it up.

[quote=CaptainC][quote=toptrainer]Thank you, I also just picked up today an alienbee 800. Now to figure out how to use it.
CaptainC wrote:


Alien Bee, Photogenic, Norman, flashlight, Sun, a candle, car headlights....all just light. Light is light - some sources are just easier to move around. :-)

Two principles to always keep in mind:
1. The larger the source IN RELATION TO THE SUBJECT, the softer the light.
2. Inverse square law - If you double the distance you get 1/4 the light. If you halve the distance you get 4x the light.
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Aug 27, 2012 13:26:04   #
Thank you, I also just picked up today an alienbee 800. Now to figure out how to use it.
CaptainC wrote:
toptrainer wrote:
OK, since I've talked to you all last I bought a light meter and made my own beauty dish. Here is the combination of both.
CaptainC wrote:
toptrainer wrote:
OK, here is a picture of my wife. with a lokey
Festina Lente wrote:
toptrainer wrote:
OK thank you for the history lesson :-) but, I still need to know what light to buy. Does anybody know what I should get?
Sure!! That part is easy!
Get at least two Einsteins with all accessories, plus 2 light stands and large umbrella diffusers. I'll even let you borrow mine. The Einsteins are the best out there IMO.
See: http://www.paulcbuff.com/e640.php

But unless you first learn the basics using what you equipment have, you will just be wasting some really great equipment (and a couple grand).

Master one light, then slowly add lights one by one. Practice with ad hoc diffusers, they can dramatically affect the quality of light. Try various reflectors also (cheap and effective for several different looks).

Then post the images(s) you like best along with a diagram of your light setup in order to get the most useful suggestions from the most experienced UHHers.
We all benefit from that!!

If you do this, you will have learned far more than you can by reading this banter (CaptainC's suggestions exempted).

Heck, do it right and you may even get CaptainC to sing like Barry White. That's something we would all appreciate! :roll:
quote=toptrainer OK thank you for the history les... (show quote)
OK, here is a picture of my wife. with a lokey ... (show quote)


Let's ignore for the moment that we could add a separation light for her hair against the dark background. This does come across as underexposed, but if shot raw would be very correctable.

This is really nice for a one-light portrait and I can easily accept the merging of her hair into the background as an artistic choice.

I think the light is well-positioned off to camera right, but maybe a bit too low. In a classic lighting style, that nose shadow would fall down very close (or even touching) the right corner of her mouth. It is called loop lighting or closed loop lighting respectively.

I want to know your light source. Umbrella? Shoot through umbrella? softbox? It is hard to make suggestions without knowing the DETAILS.

I would like to see exactly the same image shot with your light source really close to the subject. Close as in JUST outside the frame. That would make the light a bit softer.
quote=toptrainer OK, here is a picture of my wife... (show quote)
OK, since I've talked to you all last I bought a l... (show quote)


Looks like the light is placed properly judging from the nose shadow and the catchlight in the eye and the exposure looks right on the money.
quote=toptrainer OK, since I've talked to you all... (show quote)
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Aug 27, 2012 09:19:59   #
thank you, but not the look I was after.
PhotoGator wrote:
Photography is an art. It all depends in what do you want to capture and express with your composition. Obviously you like shadows, I do too. A 5 degree grid hair light (rear left) would have added more contrast and separation.
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Aug 27, 2012 07:47:18   #
Thank you for the kind words.
Shakey wrote:
Excellent! So many great things about this shot: pose, composition, lighting, model response to direction. Way to go!
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