Bruce W., here's another Bruce W. just down the river from you and in MY opinion, I must edit every photo. To explain, I shoot RAW and they must be processed to a JPG just so I can share them. It is rare that I don't, at least, take a look at brightness, contrast and saturation. I rename every photo and store it away in a structured manner, as I add the tags and GPS data.

But then, I'm rather anal about this stuff. :-)

Love my D90 so much, I'm thinking of buying a second one as a backup.

My contribution to the thread is to Google "Digital Photography School". Darren Rowse does a fine job covering topics for the beginner, as well as the pro.

I shoot Nikon RAW and use NX2 for post. I do not have PS, nor have I used it. That said, I can tell you that in my efforts to become better at using NX2, I have read much, by many. The issue you describe is documented in one of the books I have read, but I don't recall which. But, I distinctly remember the author advising to convert the NEF file (in Capture NX2) to TIF before opening in PS.

Not much help, I know, but simply wanted to confirm your findings.

Is this correct? Or, should it be $1600?

DB, I have been where you are with this. To get a "feel" for it, without breaking the bank, I bought the 18-55mm kit lenses, used. Paid a little over $100.00 for it. Keep in mind, I was just wanting to experience it. I've fallen in love with that little lens!!!! It's sharp and works well for me.

I thought I'd go the next step and recently purchased the Nikkor 10-24mm. Considerably more expensive, but there are reasons for it. I'm still 'learning' how to use this lens, as the perspective is very different at 10mm!!

All that said, I would highly recommend the 18-55mm. It's a great little lens. Here's a sample of its work.

Sunrise in Frankfort, KY.

I believe there is some confusion at play. Using my limited knowledge, I'll attempt to add some clarity. Feel welcome to correct any mis-statement I make.

In the early days of AF (auto-focus), the camera had a small motor that was used to move the lens elements until focus was obtained. As the equipment has evolved, manufacturers have moved those small motors into the lenses. So, if you have a camera capable of AF, it makes sense to get a lens that can be auto-focused by that camera. If you do, that lens will have a small motor in it that gets its power from the camera battery. The addition of the motor does not "speed up" the focusing process . . . it is critical to the focusing process.

I check Craig's List weekly for used Nikkor lenses and other equipment. It's a great source. I've bought 3 or 4 pieces that way, and am very satisfied with the process. The nice thing is that you can put the lens on the camera and try it before consummating the deal. Every person I've dealt with have been good upstanding people who just happen to have something for sale that I want.

You are right! This is why I like SyncBackSE, as it allows you to do a backup as a simple copy, which means I can access the backed up files using Windows Explorer.

Another thought . . . CDs will soon fade away as the higher capacity DVD is favored. Then blu-ray is coming on very quickly. What happens when you can't find a player that will allow you to copy those photos off that old CD? Seen an 8-track player lately? :-)

Not saying my way is best, but I keep all my data (photos included) on external 1TB drive. Next to it is another 1TB drive that I use for backups, using SyncBackSE (free) to perform the backup. At work, I have another 1TB drive that I use to back up the backup drive. It comes home with me once a week overnight and I back up the backup drive. Next morning, it goes back to my locked cabinet at work.

Point being, if (God forbid) the house burns down, I still have a copy of ALL my data, photos included.

You've done this a time or two, haven't you, Tami?