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Jan 25, 2013 11:30:34   #
Cheryl Ann wrote:
Hello Im new to UHH and love this form and all the info.
I like taking photos of my Family, Nature, and landscapes
I have been taking photos for years but in the last 2 years I have taken my camera off of auto and started learning about aperture and shutter speed's settings on my camera.
I and went from shooting Jpeg to now
Raw. I still have a lot to learn and look forward to learning from UHH.


Welcome to the Hog. Good choice to get away from auto. You get more control of your exposures now. This is the best place to learn. Lots of photo know how. Btw... Nice picture.
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Jan 25, 2013 11:25:31   #
Bellisari wrote:
Question if you had the choice between a new D600 or New D700 which would buy? I shoot mostly HS sports and travel.


What glass do you now have?
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Jan 25, 2013 10:10:06   #
Kobuk wrote:
I have been rafting for over 40yrs & organizing/guiding friends to far off places to raft, fish, hike & photograph all the outdoors has to offer whenever I can. Each year I do at least 1 trip to some part of Alaska and most recently going to the Pantanal region of Brazil.


Welcome to UHH. Nice shots.
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Jan 25, 2013 00:17:19   #
Master Flash wrote:
Laxguy wrote:
Ace, Master and Annie, Thank you for the info. I will give that a try I will be using a Canon 70-200, F2.8 and a Canon 24-105 F4 for closer shots. I like to shoot in Av mode but am open to any suggestion as I will have a couple of practice days when they will be doing training runs to get my settings correct. Thank you


Good choices of lenses. Remember, the speed of the subject is dependent not only on its actual motion but also on its distance from the camera, it's direction of travel and the focal length of the lens. The faster the subject, the closer it is to the camera- then the faster the shutter speed needed to freeze motion. Most action can be stopped with a shutter of 1/500( in good light and coming towards you). If the subject is moving horizontally across the frame, then 1/1000 will be needed. A subject that is closer to the camera will be covering space across the digital sensor frame faster than one that is far away, so we may even need a shutter speed of 1/2000, as light level permits. Play with it and see what works . Enjoy.
quote=Laxguy Ace, Master and Annie, Thank you for... (show quote)


BTW.. If the available shutter speed is not adequate, a higher ISO- such as 800- will allow you to gain a few more shutter stops and get a faster shutter speed. High ISO may result in a little noise in the image- but that might be better than a blurred subject.
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Jan 25, 2013 00:12:19   #
Laxguy wrote:
Ace, Master and Annie, Thank you for the info. I will give that a try I will be using a Canon 70-200, F2.8 and a Canon 24-105 F4 for closer shots. I like to shoot in Av mode but am open to any suggestion as I will have a couple of practice days when they will be doing training runs to get my settings correct. Thank you


Good choices of lenses. Remember, the speed of the subject is dependent not only on its actual motion but also on its distance from the camera, it's direction of travel and the focal length of the lens. The faster the subject, the closer it is to the camera- then the faster the shutter speed needed to freeze motion. Most action can be stopped with a shutter of 1/500( in good light and coming towards you). If the subject is moving horizontally across the frame, then 1/1000 will be needed. A subject that is closer to the camera will be covering space across the digital sensor frame faster than one that is far away, so we may even need a shutter speed of 1/2000, as light level permits. Play with it and see what works . Enjoy.
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Jan 24, 2013 23:35:10   #
GMS wrote:
Hello from Texas


Welcome to the forum GMS. Nice cat.
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Jan 24, 2013 23:31:52   #
gabrielcody wrote:
Just got my first dslr a cannon d 60 with 2 zoom lenses hope to learn a lot here.live in the nyc area and like to photograph birds landscapesqnd people.have some shots hope to upload for constructive advice thanks q


Welcome Mark. Glad to have you here. We all learn here.
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Jan 24, 2013 23:18:29   #
GayleSalamone wrote:
I recently led a class on portrait photography without a studio dealing with formal and candid portraits. After class someone asked what the difference is between a snapshot and a candid portrait. I thought I'd thow this questions out for discussion here. I'm including a sample which I am not sure shows one or the other.



G.S. Nice shot. A candid photo is the fresh, unguarded moments often telling something that formal portraits rarely capture. It is candid as your subjects are not aware that you are there. Normally in Candids you use long lenses so people don't see you immediately. Usually your shot is taken before your subject is aware you are shooting them. I feel that background is very important to candid photos. Posed photos are not usually classified as Candids.
That's candid...
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Jan 24, 2013 22:52:57   #
Laxguy wrote:
I am shooting Bobsled races this weekend in Switzerland and am looking for suggestions on proper settings. I am assuming it will be sunny. I will be photographing the sleds coming right at me. In past years the photos were too dark. There is much reflection because the track is natural ice and extrenmely white. Thanks in advance for any help.


When shooting in very bright light, remember to adjust the exposure meter in the camera. This means that you will adjust your exposure compensation to the positive side. (+1 etc.). Digital camera metering systems are calibrated to the brightness of the average gray. Snow and sand are brighter than that, so automatic metering will make the snow dark gray instead of white. To compensate, you will need to adjust the exposure meter to the positive side. This tells the camera to open up the aperture . Seems crazy because the scene seems so bright. By setting the exposure compensation to the positive side, you deliberately overexposed to give the snow it's normally light color. Try this as digital sensors cannot handle exposure reading accurately in very bright light. A fast lens will also help.
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Jan 24, 2013 19:45:20   #
Floyd wrote:
I'm reaching out on behalf of a friend of mine who needs some help!

His wife told him to go out and get some of those pills that would help him get an erection.

When he came back he handed her some diet pills.

Anyway, he's looking for a place to live.


Roll Tide. I like that one. I am going to remember to tell some of my friends about this. Can't wait to tell my wife.
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Jan 24, 2013 19:37:11   #
Rathyatra wrote:
My wife, Carol, hates getting her picture taken but I caught her in a good mood the other week.
Not a good portrait shot but not too bad - what do you think??


Nice photo. Beautiful wife. Next time try and leave the door out. Your wife deserves all the attention as she is very photogenic.
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Jan 24, 2013 19:32:23   #
photogal40 wrote:
:) new be here :) hi, my name is jodi .i just bought my EOS canon rebel T3i. Anyone have any coool tips that they want to share ?
here are some photo's that i took .comments please



Welcome to the Hog Jodi. Here you will find the best photo advice. The best thing is there are some great photographers here. Like your pics. Keep up the good work.
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Jan 24, 2013 18:12:23   #
PK.Photography wrote:
tainkc wrote:
Pk, I have a question. I once saw a tutorial suggesting that when shooting white on white such as you did here, that the EV level be bumped up just a bit. Does this hold true for what you did here?

Tom


Tom, that is correct and you are right. If you didn't it would go gray.


Right on. When shooting in very bright overall situations, such as white on white, a sunny beach or in bright snow, the digital sensor cannot handle the exposure reading accurately. To compensate, adjust the exposure meter in the camera to the positive side: +1 for example or plus 1/2.
This tells the camera to open up the aperature. This sounds counterintuitive because the scene seems bright already.
metering systems are calibrated to the brightness of average gray (about 18%). Snow, sand and most whites are brighter than that. Setting exposure compensation causes a deliberate overexposure to give light colors, not gray.
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Jan 17, 2013 17:57:14   #
jeep_daddy wrote:
Some stores have a no tax sale once in a while and that will save you at least $230 in CA. Otherwise, wait for a sale. They're out there sometimes.


Thanks. I decided not to buy now. I will wait about a month and see whst happens. Just so anxious to get my hands on it.
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Jan 17, 2013 16:54:40   #
wuzfuzzab wrote:
Master Flash wrote:
SirAlistair wrote:
You know the price will drop the day after you buy one, so don't worry so much about that, and just buy one! The 5D3 is very much like a machine gun, it's very quick and responsive, don't even look at the 16Gb cards, or even the 32gb cards if you are shooting RAW at a event. I can Easley run out of CF card space so i have now invested in Hoodman 64Gb 145mb/s CF cards. AND these cards are fast. My 5D3 almost never stops shooting in RAW.
The first time I used this card I shoot over 500 photos of the sky, just waiting for my buffer to slow the camera down. It never slowed down.... Don't plan on shooting RAW and Jpeg, as it just slows the camera down. If you like to know where you have been then canons GPS works well, plotting a dot on a Google map, and it even shows which way the camera is pointing too. I could go on..
You know the price will drop the day after you buy... (show quote)


Thanks for the advise. You are correct, the prices always seem to fall after we buy. The 5d3 is an amazing camera. Once I get one, my camera buying days will be over.&#128518;
quote=SirAlistair You know the price will drop th... (show quote)


That's like me telling Diane: "Honest, babe, this my LAST motorcycle and I'm not buying any more chrome,". I say t
his as my 34th bike sits in winter storage. LOL
quote=Master Flash quote=SirAlistair You know th... (show quote)


I have had more cameras than that. In one year I bought/swapped/traded at least 7.
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