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Posts for: tenny52
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Nov 12, 2017 11:31:43   #
Yes sir, I can consider collections are virtual folders exist only in LR. Its purpose is to hold the pointers to the pictures bearing the collection-name.
I didnot understand its function before, so my collections have a lot of unrelated pictures.
tenny52 wrote:
I think I have found out why I have created copies of my raw files:
When I have checked all my photo, there are options on the top as [Copy as DNG, copy, move, add], whereas I have selected [copy].
I think the normal way is [add].
Most of the times, I have to yelled where is my key in order to find it.
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Nov 11, 2017 18:51:50   #
I think I have found out why I have created copies of my raw files:
When I have checked all my photo, there are options on the top as [Copy as DNG, copy, move, add], whereas I have selected [copy].
I think the normal way is [add].
Most of the times, I have to yelled where is my key in order to find it.
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Nov 11, 2017 18:36:57   #
thanks CHG, now I understand Collections are folders which allow me to fetch LR enhanced copies by the collection-name, just like I have put tag names to the pictures. But however, collections can only be used in LR.

CHG_CANON wrote:
Others can try to figure out your drive issues ...

Collections are virtual folders. They're an organization tool completely inside LR. So, I might organize my photography by US states as collections sets. Inside a collection set like Colorado, I might have collections such as Denver and Hot Springs and Boulder. I might have visited the Denver Zoo and have a collection set of Zoos with collections of every individual zoo. An image of a bear from the Denver Zoo can co-exist in both the Denver Collection and the Denver Zoo collection. I only have a single physical file from the camera on my harddrive, but the collections allow me to keep the image organized in multiple (virtual) locations as if I had multiple copies of the image on my harddrive. It gets even better if you create virtual copies of an image. So, I might also have a 1x1 crop I used in Instagram in an Instagram collection. The 1x1 crop and 2x3 original version are managed by LR while only one copy of the file occupies diskspace on my harddrive.
Others can try to figure out your drive issues ...... (show quote)
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Nov 11, 2017 14:24:06   #
I use Faststone to download my pictures to my exHD(G:), and then R-click on a raw file and select edit with external program and select LR.
Then I selected all the pictures and import.
I found LR also makes a copy of the folder into my C: users folder.
When I check the LR library, the C: folder is my working source instead of G:
But during some previous imports, the G: pictures are there.
So I got confused, can anyone clarify this issue.
Also can someone explain how LR Collection works.
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Nov 6, 2017 05:21:07   #
let me give a penny suggestion: Do you use a diffuser?
I favor "Universal Flash Diffuser Softbox for Speedlite" which is like a white cap; for easy to carry and put into the pocket
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Nov 5, 2017 11:37:05   #
I was about to ask a related question, my D610 allows me to adjust to L1 & L2 below iso 100, does it mean the smaller/lower the number, less grainy is also the by-result as opposite to higher/larger iso?
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Nov 4, 2017 14:19:34   #
jeep_daddy wrote:
That is the problem using a 50mm lens. They tend to exaggerate problems with distortion. Use a different focal length and or stand farther away. Keep the lens parallel to the ground as much as possible.

That's why the Vert & Hor Sliders are within the Len Correction section.
Probably, Pro always use the right lens and no need for Lens Correction in LR.
50mm is probably too short for Portrait. I had a 135mm prime which I hardly find any use.
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Nov 4, 2017 14:08:24   #
I see you folks do not favor in using the Vertical slider, as I did in my previous shots.
After I found out it was very handy to straighten the merging vertical lines to parallel in LR, much easier than in PS, I did that as I have presets (one click) to do +/- 5, 10, 15, 20,25 corrections. So after taking a full length portrait, I don't have to decide which vertical line(right or left) is the true vertical.
Does it make sense besides hiding my wife's neck lines?
She would yell at me to hold my camera higher as I usually favors to shoot at shoulder level, because that is the only thing she cares , how her face look.
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Nov 4, 2017 13:46:59   #
I see you folks do not favor in using the Vertical slider, as I did in my previous shots.
After I found out it was very handy to straighten the merging vertical lines to parallel in LR, much easier than in PS, I did that as I have presets (one click) to do +/- 5, 10, 15, 20,25 corrections. So after taking a full length portrait, I don't have to decide which vertical line(right or left) is the true vertical.
Does it make sense besides hiding my wife's neck lines?
She would yell at me to hold my camera higher as I usually favors to shoot at shoulder level, because that is the only thing she cares , how her face look.
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Nov 3, 2017 13:02:53   #
I see you folks do not favor in using the Vertical slider, as I did in my previous shots.
After I found out it was very handy to straighten the merging vertical lines to parallel in LR, much easier than in PS, I did that as I have presets (one click) to do +/- 5, 10, 15, 20,25 corrections. So after taking a full length portrait, I don't have to decide which vertical line(right or left) is the true vertical.
Does it make sense besides hiding my wife's neck lines?
She would yell at me to hold my camera higher as I usually favors to shoot at shoulder level, because that is the only thing she cares , how her face look.
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Nov 3, 2017 07:59:44   #
Howard, do you mean its OK to keep the full length portrait with its prospective-angle look?
Correcting the vertical lines (room corner & furniture) to parallel would not make the person look more truthful?
It is very difficult to shoot a perfect square with the perfect square result, if that is even possible, but a scanner can.
For landscape shots it is probably OK, but for full length portrait?
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Nov 2, 2017 20:27:45   #
thank you folks,
my actual question, how to make full length figure look more natural and real?
My wife wants my camera to shoot at her eye level (mostly using my 50mm lens), in order to hide her neck lines
By that perspective angle, her feet will be further and hence shorter and smaller; which yields her head bigger.
By using the Vertical slider and cropping out the white, the image should be more truthful to actual size head to toe.
I think all full length people shots will fall into this perspective phenomenon, unless one use a 135mm(or longer) lens at the person's mid-section.
By the same token, if one took a pic of a painting, unless the camera is at the center of the painting, there will be converging lines obviously shown on the frame, by adjusting the Vertical and Horizon slider, it will bring back something close to be done by a scanner.
So does the print of the model on PB magazine centerfold go through such process?
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Nov 2, 2017 05:44:21   #
I am curious to know if I took a head to toe picture of a person and find two vertical lines on both sides merging.
Do you correct this perspective view in LR using Vertical slider in Lens Correction in order to make the person look more natural?
Otherwise, would the person's head or toe look bigger relatively?
I have this problem using a 50mm prime on a full figure picture. Of course, if I use a longer lens, this problem would diminish, but then I have to buy a bigger house
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Nov 2, 2017 05:19:50   #
As I know, compact cameras are being replaced by smart phone cameras.
you will be more confused after checking these two:
https://www.dpreview.com/products/compacts/statistics
https://www.dpreview.com/reviews/dpreview-recommends-best-smartphone-cameras
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Nov 1, 2017 19:32:42   #
thanks JC,
I do use a set of Altura Remote Shutter Release which costs $30 for a whole set of 1 transmitter and 2 receivers; unfortunately, it can not control power from the transmitter.
I believe your Cactus allows you to do that which is very handy; Can each Cactus Transceiver be set as master and slave units?
When I shoot indoors with my personal model(my wife); a role that she hates now for too much blinding her eyes. I do mount one or two Neewer on a stand so that the intensity would be more even and consistent.
For a over $200 camera-brand flash, it means little to the Pro as it would save time and/or more consistent results.
But I can use the money to buy 2 Neewer Flashes($100 for both), a set of Remote Release($30), a couple of umbrells stands with 2 umbrellas + flash hot shoes($60), a set of 5 in 1 disc reflectors ($15); plus a variety of mount-on diffusers/reflectors; of course those are Ebay/Amazon prices.
But does camera-brand flash warranty better photos?
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