The problem with doing that is that you won't be able to use the lens hood when using the oversize filter with step ring on the smaller diameter lens. And while a lens hood is highly recommended most any time, it's even more important to use one when using any filter. It both protects the filter physically from bumps and shades it from oblique light that can cause flare issues (ghosts, veiling, etc.)

I recommend buying the correct size C-Pol for your lens... and if you need a different size, buy that size too, instead of using step rings. (Note: I do use step rings, but only to stack my different size filters for easy storage in my camera bag.)

Yes, sometimes it's a bit of a pain to rotate the C-Pol to set it when using a lens hood. Just deal with it. Remove the hood, make the adjustment, then reinstall the hood.

High quality, multi-coated C-Pols that won't completely break the bank include:

B+W MRC... $80
B+W Kaësemann MRC... $100
B+W Kaësemann MRC "High Transmission"... $110
B+W Kaësemann MRC "High Transmission, Nano"... $129
B+W Kaësemann MRC "Slim"... $150

Hoya HD... $72 (close-out)
Hoya HMC... $80
Hoya HD2... $89 (close-out)
Hoya EVO... $128
Hoya HD3... $160

(B&H Photo and Amazon prices for 67mm size are shown for illustration purposes only.)

Some definitions and explanations:

MRC and HMC refer to multi-coatings, which are important and are used on all the above filters (each manufacturer also offers uncoated and/or single coated, which I'd avoid).

Kaësemann are better sealed against moisture intrusion and use a higher grade of polarizing foil.

High Transmission (HT and HRT) filters allow more light to pass than standard circular polarizers. They cut about 1.5 stops max, while a standard circular polarizer will reduce exposure more like 2 stops. Not sure if this half stop is worth the extra cost.

HD, Nano, HD2, and HD3 refer to more advanced multi-coatings that are easier to clean, more scratch resistant, etc., and in some cases harder, more scratch and breakage resistant glass.

EVO add some anti-static coating(s) to reduce dust attracted to the filter.

Slim filters use especially narrow frames, to reduce chance of vignetting on ultra-wide lenses. They tend to be more expensive, can be more fragile and may be more difficult to get on and off the lens.... but are necessary with certain lenses. (Note: B+W's standard filters are pretty slim to begin with.)

There are other good ones, besides just B+W and Hoya... I hear good things about Marumi filters, for example. Heliopan and Singh-Ray are excellent too, but quite pricey.

When I was growing up, and through a good part of my business career, joke telling was an appreciated and valued skill. My Dad was quite a master. I can recall dinner guests laughing so hard that they couldn't take a breath. Though I never had his skill, I have always enjoyed jokes and telling jokes. All of a sudden the universe changed, and we began to become "the nation of the eternally offended" with sensitivity to virtually everything. I was standing with some work friends at a business meeting reception, all of us with drink in hand, telling jokes. An individual walked over to the corner where we were standing and joined the group, then announced that our jokes were offensive, but made no move to leave. We were amazed. Sure enough, pretty soon there were darn few jokes told at business affairs, and then, only among close friends in private.
I was delighted to find a steady flow of jokes on this site -- I suppose it is member age and demographics, but it is a most enjoyable flashback to freer days. I told one of my joke telling business buddies (who hasn't retired yet) that I had hit the Mother Lode and have been sending him a selection of the best jokes harvested from the Hedgehog every week. Many thanks to you who post them -- I suspect I am not the only one who passes them on. You have a broader audience than you know and are keeping a tradition alive! Cheers!

Err I have two really old cars. When they need a tune up they get one. There are signs. If they do not nothing is done other than regular maintenance like fluids, brakes...

On the lens fine tuning... That is a joke. I do not know one camera that does not adjust to the lens. If there is a problem with the focusing (only reason for fine tuning is one of three things in order of frequency:
1) using auto focus (learn to check that)
2) user error (learn the camera and how to focus properly)
3) lens has a problem (check warranty - send for repair)

Most if not all camera fine tuning are not for the faint of heart and certainly not necessary unless you need something really really special or an off brand thingy that is weird.

Fine tuning in a camera otherwise consist of setting the WB correctly and the exposure. Either of which is not really fine tuning but simply knowing how to use a camera.

Basically, your question makes no sense in my opinion.

Do a web search on "gestalt theory photography", more direct than the broader psychology of how we process visual input.

The statement about the whole and the parts was originally "The whole is other than the sum of the parts." The point being that it isn't just all the parts, it's the order of all the parts. The "form" or "unified whole".

Regardless of all that, Rudolf Arnheim is the best place to start in terms of learning theory that can be implemented in practice. See,

"Art and Visual Perception: A Psychology of the Creative Eye", 1974.
http://monoskop.org/images/e/e7/Arnheim_Rudolf_Art_and_Visual_Perception_1974.pdf

"Entropy and Art", 1971
http://www.kenb.ca/z-aakkozzll/pdf/arnheim.pdf

The first is the classic text of the topic. The second is one of Arhheim's many fascinating essays.

Most interesting question, Jim. I've been through phases -

Phase 1- I tried hard to get the camera to record what I saw (not a bad place to start). I soon discovered that it did not see like I saw, in a multitude of ways.

Phase 2 - I turned to Post Processing tools to transform the captured image into more what I saw. This helped but it too proved frustrating, also in a multitude of ways.

Phase 3 - (where I am now) I'm trying to achieve an image that conveys something of what I FELT about what I saw. That involves camera work, PP work and a lot of experiments, many failed but some sorta successful.

I have owned a Bogen 3050/Manfrotto 058 since 1982. It’s a beast but I have never regretted it. It has a load capacity of just over 26 pounds. This is a heavy set of legs but you will probably never need anything else unless you desire something much more lightweight & portable.

I joke with people, telling them that I rent it out as an engine hoist for small cars when I’m not using it.

I have various heads that I have used over the years. It was sold as a 3051 with the 3047 head. I paid about $250 for it back then.
It currently sells on eBay for $85-$200. The dolly is another $50. The current version sells new for about $450 sans head & dolly.

Look at the pictures on this eBay ad to see how close it is to the one you are looking at.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bogen-Manfrotto-3051-Professional-Tripod-With-3047-Head-/271962224321?hash=item3f523636c1

The quick release hex plates are still available there are 2 common types, the 3049 and the 3041.

If you have any questions, please feel free to PM me.

Bob