Thanks! I hope the original poster finds my thoughts and examples useful.
The camera should be held vertically for panoramas. Overlap about 1/3 of each scene.
I shoot from 7 to 14 vertical exposures to obtain a 180 degree panorama.
Click here to view my panoramas: http://www.flickr.com/photos/exhibit_images/sets/72157629868775510/
I had the same issue with my 10-24mm Nikkor zoom. My solution was to purchase a Nikon Speedlight for the hot shoe on top of the camera. I love it!
I love it when I learn something! I've been using PSE10 but was unaware of the "automatic" option in RAW. I'm going to check it out right now!
Didn't the 5200 come with an 18-55mm zoom?
If you have it and want to try making closeup portraits you might start at 55mm and the lowest f-stop, (3.5, I think). Use "A" (aperture Priority) mode as well as the lowest ISO the lighting conditions will allow.
Do NOT use autofocus!
Accurately measure the distance from the camera lens to the area on the subject's face you want in focus. The closer the subject is to you the less depth of field you'll have.
Roughly speaking (or typing, I guess) this focal point will throw most of the background out of focus.
Practice on a static object.
In my film days I used a Nikkor 105mm lens for portraits. So, you might consider a 55 -200mm or 55-300mm Nikkor zoom. Set either to approximate 105mm and see what you get.
I have toe 55-300mm Nikkor but haven't done a portrait in years.
The great thing about digital is that it cost nothing but time to learn and experiment. I used to shoot a whole roll of 36 exposure Kodachrome just to get one shot! No more, baby!
Thanks! Topaz recently introduced PhotoFXlab, a stand-alone chassis for all their plugin filters. I can access FX independently but prefer to open it inside of PS Elements 10. I think one of the best features of FXlab is the sliders to control saturation, tint, brightness, etc.
I used Topaz Adjust 5, then just tweeked the saturation and temperature in photoFXlab.
I started shooting and processing b&W back in the '60s. Back then "digital" meant you had good use of your fingers! ;-)
Wow! Lots of cool motion shots at fairs/carnivals.
Your image is a Jpeg (unless the forum auto converts to peg). It is also a small file.
Anyway, I quickly ran it through Photoshop Elements 10 with Topaz plugin filters. Here's my resulting image.
A truly RAW image would have yielded better results. When you enlarge you'll see a two-toned sky. I made no attempt to correct that.
This was shot with my Nikon D3100, Nikkor 10-24mm zoom (set to10mm). Mode "A;" f5.6; shutter speed 1/13s; ISO 100; +.3EV.
I set the ISO and f-stop. The camera did the rest.
Shot after sunset, on a tripod with remote shutter release.
Adventureland, Farmingdale, NY (L.I.)
Nikon offers a FREE program to view and even edit (somewhat) photos on your PC. It's called Nikon View NX2.
I use it these days just to view RAW files before editing in my other software.
Another feature is that it includes Nikon Transfer. Stick your SD card in the PC, elect Nikon Transfer and it will copy your photos into a folder using the current date as the name along with a number. Every time you transfer the folder is named with a consecutive number.
Go to this page: http://support.nikonusa.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/61/~/current-versions-of-nikon-software#Anchor-1
Click on "View NX 2" and download the "2.5.0 full version."
Personally, I preferred that stretched look of a wide angle lens. I use a Nikkor 10-24mm zoom -almost always at 10mm. I usually shoot horizontally, especially the skies.
Does your version of Photoshop have a "Photomerge Panorama" feature? If so, you can hold the camera vertically, pan it across the scene making exposures as you go. Be sure to overlap each shot with the previous one. Oh and you can do the same for "vertiramas" (hold the camera horizontal and pan up taking overlapping shots).
I have Photoshop Elements 10. I find the panorama button be clicking "New." I don't know about PS.
Anyway, you can see examples at my site: http://www.flikr.com/exhibit_images