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Sep 13, 2017 09:38:39   #
Jerry Green wrote:
Is this the lens you are talking about?
Nikon AF DX Fisheye-NIKKOR 10.5mm f/2.8G ED Lens
Minimum Focus Distance 5.51" (14 cm)
Magnification 0.20x
Maximum Reproduction Ratio 1:5

This is not a 1:1 macro but should do well as a close focus lens. I have the full frame 16 mm fisheye and use it often as a close focus lens which gives you great depth of field.


You can get a much closer image with a smartphone or a tablet...
I believe the definition of Macro is at least a 1:1 reproduction ratio...which this is not.

Best,
Todd Ferguson
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Sep 13, 2017 09:35:43   #
Usually use a CFast card reader today but have connected a USB cable to a camera to transfer in the past. I think either method works OK, sometimes just a question of convenience at the time too. I would hope that the camera manufacturer would make it fairly idiot proof to use the camera connected to the USB cable and not do any damage to the card or camera...

Best,
Todd Ferguson
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Sep 13, 2017 09:31:04   #
I usually put each flash into a ThinkTank Flash bag as I like that I can carry the flash and aux battery unit in one well fitting bag. I can hang this bag on a nightstand if needed or I can hang it on my belt. If I am transporting 2 or 3 flashes I throw these bags into an old Epson projector bag. I also have another bag that carries all my MagMod attachments so if I need those I just grab that bag too.

Best,
Todd Ferguson
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Sep 13, 2017 09:26:51   #
Sounds like a reasonable method for shooting stationary or slow moving items but not sure it would be good for shooting faster moving objects or a bunch of shots in a row. I have to say I might play around with it just to have a learning experience. I have never been a Live View shooter but as I intend to play with shooting some DSLR video in the next few months this could be a good experience. I other question I have is how does the brightness of the LCD screen and the level of ambient light impact the perception of a proper exposure. I guess the hood would help address these somewhat. Thanks for sharing.

Best,
Todd Ferguson
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Sep 13, 2017 09:08:33   #
Haydon wrote:
Thanks for sharing that. It's good to know others have experienced similar tangents :)

I think I'm going to fire several Einsteins at once today on a SX50 just to say I have.


Awesome Haydon!!!

Best,
Todd Ferguson
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Sep 13, 2017 09:01:00   #
If underexposed and not using flash perhaps some exposure compensation should have been used to overcome the underexposure.

Best,
Todd Ferguson
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Sep 13, 2017 08:44:51   #
In a RRS Tripod bag.
Best to have a Sherpa to carry it...

Best,
Todd Ferguson
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Sep 13, 2017 08:37:08   #
Robert Bailey wrote:
MT Shooter explained it well, why you need at least two bodies if you are shooting professionally.
If you're not shooting professionally, it is still a nice luxury.

I teach photography at a local college, and I am always shocked by the people
who are in a beginner class and know nothing, and have one camera body (with a pop-up flash)
and one "kit" lens- and they are shooting weddings, etc.


And what is more shocking is that people actually hire these people to shoot their wedding!!!

Best,
Todd Ferguson
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Sep 13, 2017 08:35:47   #
CindyHouk wrote:
This might be a silly question but from a newbie...I would like to understand a little better. I just got my first dslr - a Nikon D5300 and just learning everything about it. Plus I am starting to aquire better glass instead of just the kit lens that came with it - but as far as purchasing another camera body....why do you do that? I see a lot of people here have various camera bodies...so just curious as to why.

Cindy


Aside from the various reasons stated already some people just like cameras and collecting them for different uses and reasons.
It is all just how much money you want to spend and what you want to spend it on. Personally I would rather have one or two great cameras and a half dozen great lenses than 10 bodies and 25 lenses. But that is just the way I aim to roll.

Best,
Todd Ferguson
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Sep 12, 2017 16:17:45   #
mannypr wrote:
It's important for you to realize that the difference in noise performance between a D7100 and D500 is just about one stop which in the overall picture is not really all that much . Lens has absolutely nothing to do with noise , If your looking for a mayor advance in noise performance you really should consider going full frame Having said that a good flash good go a long way in mitigating the noise as the extra lighting will bring the iso down with better noise or if shooting steady state objects a longer exposure time will help a lot .
It's important for you to realize that the differe... (show quote)


I agree that FF will give better low light / high ISO performance but it comes at a price especially for a sports shooting oriented camera. Unless you are willing to go to 2-3 generation older to get the cost down. Then it becomes a Pro level camera that is 5-10 years old versus a good solid consumer camera that is maybe 2-4 years old. An interesting decision that I made myself a few years ago.

Flash is certainly one good way to improve low light shooting. However, many venues don't allow flash photography so that is a deal breaker for a lot of sports shooters. The other issue is shutter speed when using flash. Most camera sync speed for flash is 1/250 or less. Often to slow to stop sports motion. Now you could kill the majority of the ambient light with you exposure and use the flash to stop motion. That takes multiple flash units or really powerful flash at a relatively short distance in many cases. Such flashes don't come inexpensively either.

One could say well shoot with High Speed Sync on a powerful flash. That is possible but it puts a lot of strain on the flash and the power supply. The other issue becomes if you want to fire off a bunch of shots in a row the flash can either not recycle fast enough or runs the risk of overheating and shutting down. Luckily in drag racing I can use flash without restrictions pretty much at many races. Even so I tend to shoot higher ISO with one or two flashes to add some light. But I am trying to get higher shutter speeds of about 1/250 or 1/200 too.

So, flash is not an easy solution for sports shooting...for a variety of reasons...

Best,
Todd Ferguson
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Sep 12, 2017 12:12:39   #
larryjphoto wrote:
Journey: I have 5 lenses, 4 Canon "L" series lenses including the 70-200 f2.8 LII. I also own the Sigma 150-600 it's the only non-Canon lens I own and I'm extremely pleased with it.

Chapmen: Get over yourself. Not everyone is perfect. Didn't your mother ever teach you that if can't say something nice, don't say anything at all?


But are you following your own advice...just saying...

Best,
Todd Ferguson
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Sep 12, 2017 12:07:28   #
cjc2 wrote:
IMHO, the D500 is the flagship DX body from Nikon. I use one and it performs flawlessly. However, there is no comparison to a Full Frame body for lower noise. As a very busy sports action shooter, I rely on my D5 for that work. I have just purchased a D850 but have yet to use it for sports work as the battery grip, required to obtain 9 fps, is not yet available. Best of luck.


And of course D5 and Canon 1Dx MkII are super cameras for sports if you want to spend the money... But for a Nikon shooter you can have 3-4 D500 for what 1 D5 costs...

Best,
Todd Ferguson
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Sep 12, 2017 12:02:36   #
TriX wrote:
In fast moving situations or those with rapidly changing light where full manual can be problematic, I prefer to set my shutter speed to insure no blur caused by movement (either the subject or the camera), my aperture to get The required DOF and use auto ISO. My thought process is that it's a question of priorities. If the shot is blurred because of inadequate shutter speed, it's worthless. If it's blurred due to inadequate DOF, it's worthless (unless intended), and if you miss the shot while setting the camera, again worthless. But if it's noisey because of high ISO, it's at least usable and the noise may be partially ameliorated with noise reduction in post processing.
In fast moving situations or those with rapidly ch... (show quote)


And if it is noisy it is always an option to convert it to black and white...

Best,
Todd Ferguson
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Sep 12, 2017 10:41:45   #
D500 is an awesome sports camera if you can afford to own one...

Best,
Todd Ferguson
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Sep 12, 2017 09:09:58   #
Generally I would set ISO manually and not use Auto ISO. 100-400 outdoors, 400-1600 indoors and higher in really dark indoors.
Of course these are only rough guidelines as it depends on what you are shooting and how fast it is moving. Sometimes I will shoot drag racing at night at ISO 4000 to 6400 with Speedlites to add light. It comes down to learning your equipment, experimenting and learning. I am a Canon shooter, full disclosure...

You might be able to set the Shutter Speed and the Aperture manually and then use Auto ISO. I think my Canon can do that but the ISO choice can vary widely depending on the metering mode you are using and what you are seeing in the viewfinder.

Best,
Todd Ferguson
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