E.L.. Shapiro wrote:
This is true and very important. Every time this question arises, I too like to advise certain cautions to avoid any damage to equipment
According to the published specifications, the camera and strobe that OP indicated are compatible in terms of trigger voltage safety, There are, HOWEVER, caveats.
It's best to test the voltage to verify that in this case, the trigger voltage is below 250 VDC.
The Safe-Sync adapter is a good accessory to have on hand if anyone has older flas equiopmt that the wist to I use on currently made digital cameras. Most currently made flas gear has much lower trigger voltage than their predecessors. The Safe Sinc unit can be mounted in the hot shoe be between a Speedlight and the shoe and also has an outlet for a stand PC synchronization cord.
In one of the attached images, you can see how the voltage reading is made. The Buff unit in question probably has a 4/" audio or phone plug style of synch outlet. A simple adapter cord was made to enable the use of an H-type such cord. This also provides a convenient way to test for the trigger voltage. The unit has to be turned on and read to flas when the reading is mand. Also remember that the is not the operating voltage of the flaunt, which can be several hundred volts under high capacitance. This is the current coming through the trigger circuitry. The synchronization system in your camera acts as a light switch that completes the circuit and triggers the flash.
Voltages that exceed the camera's specification will not "blow up " the camer- it will not explode or electrocute the photograher. It will, however, cause damage to the camera's synchronization system and other electronics with the camera body. Also pictured is the Safe-Synch which reduces the current to a camera-safe level.
As for the adaptation of a generic softbox to you s the strobe. A mechanical metal adapter can be made to secure any softbox to most units. The caveat here is not only the mechanical attachment but the position of the flash tube/reflector of the unt within the box. Someof the lig shod be able to reflect off the sides and back of the box. Usually, with most helical flash tubes, more light is emitted from the sides of the tun than from the front. If the tube is too recessed in the adaptation so that insufficient light strikes the SIDES of the inside the box, you are losing light volume and ample diffusion. If the side of the tube is recessed and most of the light is coming from the front of the tube, you are losing the benefit of soft light reflecting from the inside sides of the box. In effect, you are just placing a diffuser (scrim) in form of a strobe. Just make certain that the flash tube is placed well in the box or use a softbox where the entire unit is enclosed in the box. There is a softbox where the strobe is placed through a zipper or Velcro-equipped slit of flap at the bottom of the modifier. If the reflector on the strobe can not be removed, aim the unit at the back of the box with some light striking the sides so you will get full benet of the softbox's efficiency and maximize the degree of diffusion.
This is true and very important. Every time this ... (
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Thanks so much for your detailed reply - I have never made "friends" with Mr. Electricity, so we keep each other at arms' length and your explanation and the pics will help me to venture into this area (with some trepidation, but I really don't want to short out my beloved D750 in the blink of an eye when it could have been avoided with precautions)