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Posts for: gator81
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Oct 24, 2019 00:12:54   #
Just as a follow up, surgery went well and a week later the reports from doctor informed me that they were able to get all the cancer out. I am still back for a couple more test to make sure, but it was just great news.
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Oct 15, 2019 23:43:33   #
I am sorry I have not been back soon enough, Just when you think your starting to get better you find out you have a tumor on inside of your bladder and its cancerous :/ Surgery went well and they are testing to see if they removed it all or its going to be trouble... I will not share the process of them doing this but can say that it was Very uncomfortable ...

As for what post I have read, i Have a 430EX II speedflash for my camera, the remote trigger i have been researching would have a pass through for the flash that i would use more for fill when the wife and I do some shooting down by the river. The hard part is that a local camera shop was telling me to make sure any remote hardware will trigger that speedflash or I could have troubles.
I am really looking more into a cheap kit that has the background stand and 3 muslin drops, I guess that is more of why i was looking at the cheap lights for fill and led lights to have lower heat.

I may have to try and get my phone to be the trigger again as after selling some stuff I only have around 300$ to spend :( and I am trying to get the best bang for my buck to start with.

everyone has been so much help and I cannot thank you all enough. This is something that helps me take my mind off other things and give me a lot of enjoyment. Again thank you
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Sep 13, 2019 16:53:10   #
rmalarz wrote:
Gator, as promised, here's one with the lighting set at approximately 1/2 the intensity value of yesterday's photo. Again, SOOC, everything set to Auto.

Oh, and if you ever get to the Phoenix area, meeting for you to purchase a beer for the extra work would be nice.
--Bob


I can see only a small difference, but very small to my old eyes :)
Believe it or not I had hich hiked through flagstaff like 38yrs ago hehe and back this way about 7 months later hehe.
If I am blessed and I can get down that way It would be an honor meet up with you. :)
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Sep 13, 2019 00:35:00   #
Haydon wrote:
Continuous light has a huge limitation in power and freezing action. Continuous lights are fine for product photography and newborns. Otherwise I'd look at using strobes/monolights for versatility. I own both and always go back to strobes. Look to off camera flash to create dimension to your images with an RF trigger. A good value is the Godox AD 200. Substantially stronger than a speedlight but keep in mind this is strictly off camera work but it's very compact and it comes at a very reasonable price. Look at the Flashpoint brand of Godox for in house warranty advantages.
Continuous light has a huge limitation in power an... (show quote)


sweet I will check that out
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Sep 12, 2019 22:27:28   #
rmalarz wrote:
Gator,
Here's a SOOC image of a color chart. The illumination was solely provided by the LED light setup I referenced earlier. The lights were about 4 feet from the subject and angled about 45 degrees.This was shot in RAW, but no manipulation, other than resizing, was done. It visually looks very close to the chart.
--Bob


was this at max lighting? or since it has a means to lower the power was it at another setting? could you try at different power settings and see if it still maintains the same balance? I am talking to my wife about getting the leds if we have the money available. Then I want to get some backdrops as I enjoy working with green screens and test with the black and white that you can get in most kits :)

thank you for the trouble of showing me... reminds me i need to get me a color card and grey card someday too. I know there not much but I keep forgetting hehe.
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Sep 12, 2019 14:46:53   #
Keen wrote:
Continuous lighting is less expensive, and lets you see what lighting effect you will get. For portraits, and product images, they can be useful. For stopping action, a 'flash' /'speedlight' is the thing to have, but good ones can cost a bit. Get ones which have master / slave capabilities. The more lights, and light modifiers, you can have, the better. Some images look great with one light. Others do better with three, or four, or more, lights. Reflectors, diffusers, etc, are good to have on hand, too. Again, more can be better. Have some continuous lights, and some flash units.
Continuous lighting is less expensive, and lets yo... (show quote)


I have been reading more on that also, I may still get a kit and looking hard at the leds, I have a speedlight that i use on the camera shoe and as money and experience will allow I will be wanting to learn with more. Right now money is my crutch and I have to try and make the most of what I can and it is hard waiting after getting all this good info from everyone. More info for my "goal" book :)
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Sep 12, 2019 12:58:43   #
rmalarz wrote:
Gator, I was where you are a few years back. Some trial and error, but with note-taking and analysis managed to work through most issues and now pretty much work situation free.

As for color shifting, etc., I didn't notice anything dreadful. I'll have some time this weekend to do some experiments and post the results. It'll be a good excuse to try out my new camera parts, as well.

With strobes, most of the time I simply set the camera to Auto. On some really important moments, I trigger the strobe with my light meter (Sekonic L758DR) and get exposure settings from that.

Keep in mind we were all where you are now. Careful note-taking, observation, and analysis provide the path to better proficiency.
--Bob
Gator, I was where you are a few years back. Some ... (show quote)


thanks :)
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Sep 12, 2019 12:15:32   #
rmalarz wrote:
When the set I purchased arrived, I set it up and took a couple of desktop shots. Worked just fine. The lights themselves are remotely controlled and can be varied in brightness. If you'd like, I can set up the lights and take a photo or two and post them in this thread later this evening, Phoenix time.
--Bob


Did you have to do anything special with using led's? do you use a light meter or something like that or just make the determination on how it looks at the time you take the photo?
I am sure your experience can make it easy but me would be a mass of trial and error (lol).
From what I understand the power or watts used for the leds can generate a color spectrum where the higher can go more into the blues and lower can be more for the yellows and reds. Having an adjustment to change the power would make me guess that it could give your more options to add color would be my guess. I would just be curious on how hard it is to find the sweet spot for the best lighting? Or by shooting in raw you could fix most in post?
wow it almost looks like I know something, hehe, doing a lot of reading lately :)
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Sep 12, 2019 11:29:33   #
rmalarz wrote:
I recently purchased this kit. https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1323079-REG/savage_led60k_r_savage_500w_led_studio.html/c/product/1323079-REG/Savage_500W_LED_Studio_Light_Kit

I found it to be quite adequate for the intended purpose. I'm not fond of strobes for portrait work, as the areas of light and shadow can be difficult to precisely place. Couple this kit with a strobe for lighting backgrounds and it's quite nice. Decent price, as well.

As for remote strobe work, I use up to 4 Nikon strobes controlled by a Godox transmitter and receivers. They've performed flawlessly.
--Bob
I recently purchased this kit. https://www.bhphoto... (show quote)


This is intresting as the cost is low as I saw but I thought there was a common frequency problem when using led's? Most light seems to be rated at kelvin and would relate with heat that is generated where led's wouldnt have the heat.
Is using leds another learning method to adjust to different light spectrum to get the same results? I ask as I have worked with led's for other projects that was not photography..
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Sep 12, 2019 11:21:02   #
CO wrote:
You mentioned removing shadows from a background. In studio shots we have often used a second strobe aimed at the backdrop to eliminate shadows. We used a strip softbox and had it at an angle so that the light is feathered across the backdrop. I have a Paul C. Buff 10"x36" strip softbox that I use with my DB-800 strobes. I like to use a beauty dish on the main light a lot. The beauty dish still creates soft light but accentuates features more than a sofbox or umbrella.


Wow, but again those lights for me are so expensive. I will mark this so if I ever get to a greater level where i am running a studio I will have this info available. I will place it in my book of goals I am trying to achieve and one day I will have this. Thank you this is an exciting goal :)
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Sep 11, 2019 07:41:09   #
CO wrote:
I have used continuous lighting kits. I don't like it because it does nothing to help freeze motion. With a flash or studio strobe, the very brief duration of the flash helps to freeze motion. The ones I have used were not that powerful. I photographed in a dim room and I still had to boost my camera's ISO very high in order to keep the shutter speed up. Also, the continuous light can be stressful to your model. It can cause them to squint their eyes. I would try to get a studio strobe. Adorama Camera has their Flashpoint series strobes. They're very economical. I have Paul C. Buff DigiBee DB-800 strobes they're very compact and economical.

You should be able to get an infrared remote for your 70D.

I wouldn't have more then two light sources and even then, one should be a main light and use the other as fill light or a hair light. If you use more than one light, try not to get dual shadows. It will just look odd. Also, try not to get two catchlights in the models eyes. It's best to have a single catchlight in the eyes and in the 2 o'clock or 10 o'clock position. If you're going for the old film noir look, you can have the catchlights low in the eyes.
I have used continuous lighting kits. I don't like... (show quote)


I looked up the strobes and for me I couldnt afford the db-800's but they are nice, the flashpoint is nice I just dont know how long it will take me to save that much but I know have a goal of what to look for.

I have looked at remotes but have read good and bad in most of them and the bad is what concerns me. I have seen cheap ones that are like 10$ but most of them are not instant, you can only config them to trigger the timer for taking the picture. The more expensive ones concerns me for overkill as I doubt I would be needing a intravolemeter (however you spell) or most need to mount to the hotshoe making it hard if I am out and need to use a flash.

as for the lights, i had not really thought much about catch light positions I have usually thought more of just removing shadows and when using a background making sure lighting was good there as I have fun changing backgrounds in post, plus I have been learning more with setting up like a photo booth as the kids at church love that :)

thank you for the quick reply, I now have more to consider before making a purchase someday :)
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Sep 11, 2019 06:10:06   #
Hello, been awhile for me, trying to recover from medical problems and now improving. I have tried to read some post on the subject and feel more confused then before. I am sorry if I am messing up by posting multi questions in one post.
This is therapy for me and I am trying to make the most of what money I can save and still learn and thank you all for the great site and assistance that has been so much help.

1. Looking at continuous lighting kits, the cheap ones that has like a couple soft box's and umbrellas and stand with 3 muslin 10ft backdrops blk/wht/grn. I have read they can be a good start for those with budget and I am not opening a studio but for friends and family. I have seen on amazon and some other places for around 100$ range.

2. I have a canon eos 70D kit, been looking for good method to take self photo's without trying to outrun the timer :/ I was using my phone but it is not doing so well now and while out there are times I still need the flash for fill light and some of the remotes I have seen mount where my flash mounts.

3. It is still far in the future but I am curious as the a good economic investment when trying to build remote flash gear. should I look more greater expansions? like it can control more remotes, just look for a few or many? again I am dreaming for the future lol and I want to have the correct dreams :)

Sorry I am not more detailed, I have had trouble sleeping and finally had a chance to ask. I will try to watch closely on any replies and again thank you
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Jul 22, 2018 10:02:49   #
I am sorry for the grammar mistake as it is not my strong point.

I called the City Engineer as I had him out here for another reason about 7 months ago and he gave me his card and had told me if I had any problems to contact him. Because the tree is not on my property and is the county that maintains the area I figured he would have to make the decision to have it removed and make the contacts for the arrangements to have it removed.
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Jul 21, 2018 19:50:28   #
rjaywallace wrote:
Whatever you do, don’t delay even one day. The above suggestion to simply deal with it on your own by hiring prefessional tree care is possibly the best.


alot of them are nice and will do that, right now they need to hurry as if another storm comes through while waiting it could be trouble waiting to happen. I was blessed that high power line didnt snap the first time.
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Jul 21, 2018 19:48:05   #
I have turned it in earlier today as I am on ssi and cannot afford anything :/ I will call them again monday as right now alot of the power crews are still out working to get others in the area power. At least I can say that they have been informed. I was told by a neighbor that letting them know is the best I can do right now as its the city's problem now.
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