I think the two unidentified are both Black Swallowtail.

I use the Nikon AF-S FX NIKKOR 300MM f/4E PF ED with the 1.4x, 1.7x version II, 2.0x TC and a D750, and they all are combinations that are light enough to carry for hours. The 1.4x combination is very fast and may hunt a little more than the 300mm lens alone but not enough to matter unless you are in very low light conditions. In fact for birding I found that with the 1.4x I could not get close enough many times. Therefore my carrying lens for birding has become the 1.7x combination with which I am very satisfied. The image quality between the 1.4x and 1.7x combination is nearly the same. but not quite enough when you consider the 420 mm versus 500 mm. I realize there's only 80 mm difference but it seems to make quite a difference in how close you have to be from the target! I have used these combinations for 3 years and love them! I have a Nikkor 200-500 mm lens also, but it's just too heavy to handhold for an older person like me to carry unless I use my tripod. However, I have found that the 200-500 mm lens is awesome with the 1.4x and 1.7x TC but just too heavy for me to carry for long periods while birding.

In my opinion it was relevant to the OP's question. I agree with you. Why throw away pixels? No reason, unless you wish to crop a photo for whatever the reason. I was merely explaining how the FF view or scene could be the same as the crop view or scene, and that is by cropping the FF photo. It's not anything I would recommend doing unless there was a reason.

I will use an example: Since you understand that it would take a 300mm FX lens to get the same view, if you snapped a photo with both cameras using 200mm lens, the APS-C photo would show less of the same scene than the FF photo. Therefore in order for both photos to show the same scene you would have to crop the FF photo in post processing. Additionally, to see the same view as with the APS-C with 200mm you would have to use a 300mm FX lens on the FF.

I think that SteveR is answering the OP's question correctly. The OP wants to know what FF lens he would get for a FF camera to get the same result that he gets on his crop camera and his 200mm DX lens. He would need to get a 300mm FF lens on a FF camera to SEE the same view (FOV), but he would get a 200mm FF lens on a FF camera to get the same result. The cropping is done in the camera with APS-C and in post processing with FF.

That would have been time consuming but I think would be doable. Have any idea why it tries to boot from one of the 2 backup drives instead of the SSD with the OS? It is a pain having to go to the boot menu to boot to the right drive!

Finally I decided it had to be a hardware problem. I have 3 hard drives in the computer and maybe during the Windows 10 feature update when the computer tried to restart it didn't remember which drive the operating system was on. I had that problem before. I took off the side cover and unplugged the 2 drives I used for backups. Then the computer booted up and finished updating before totally booting up. What a relief!

Again I want to thank all the Hogs who made suggestions, especially TriX who hung with me til the end.

USB Windows 10 ISO is FAT32 and active. DVD is UDF Healthy (Primary Partition). I built the PC with an ASUS motherboard and the BIOS doesn't those options in the boot menu. I did change the USB from Auto to Enable in another menu. I even burned another DVD by another program with no different result. What puzzles me is that occasionally a starting window "Preparing Automatic Repair) appears and it goes to a screen of different countries with "US" highlighted. The keyboard does not react when I hit "enter" or any other key. The keyboard works otherwise. I even dug out my old cabled keyboard and plugged it in. It works but not on the repair screen. At the bottom of the screen is "See More Keyboard Layouts".
Back to the drawing board! Thanks for hanging with me TriX.

I burned the Windows 10 ISO on a DVD and booted it up on the lame computer. It booted to the Windows 10 emblem, then I'm assuming something was being loaded from the booted DVD for a minute or so (no message), then the blank screen appeared again where it continued with nothing else happening. I'm sleeping on it; then tomorrow is another day! Thanks everyone for you help and encouragement.

Downloading the Windows 10 ISO and will burn to DVD double layer as I write this. I'm 84 and persistent!

The computer boots from a Windows 7 DVD that the Windows 7 upgraded from, and it loads all the Windows files. The Microsoft emblem comes up with "Windows is Starting", and it goes to a blank screen with a large mouse cursor. Then it stalls at that point. The operating system is on a SSD drive with 2 other Hard drives. I disabled all drives other than the DVD Rom and the SSD in BIOS. Another thing I could try is putting Windows 10 ISO on a DVD and see if it boots with that. I really appreciate all your suggestions. Thanks.

I downloaded "Create Windows 10 installation media" which is the ISO, and installed it on a USB drive. It doesn't boot from that either. My problem is that I can't boot into anything. As a brief pause it goes directly to the Microsoft window and attempts to boot up, but it doesn't. Sometime it goes directly to a repair window where the option is to choose the country, but this window does not respond to the mouse or keyboard. The mouse and keyboard are functioning OK. If I could get into safe mode I could revert back to a previous state. Thanks for your help. I used to build computers as a hobby and am fairly knowledgeable about the hardware and operating system software, but I've never dealt with Windows 10 on this kind of problem. I'll keep working on it.

Thank you for that info TriX. If I reinstall the OS I'll have to reinstall all my programs, but if that's what I have to do I'll do it.

My USB problem has been resolved. I have 2 desktops and a Microsoft Surface, and I had problems with all three whiile installing the April Feature updates. The Surface had the USB problem and after trying many "fixes" with a Microsoft Rep, the final step was updating the USB3 driver. I tried that in the beginning but did not resolve the problem then. I built both desktops and my wife's desktop was the least affected. My desktop is the problem now. It will not boot up! Unfortunately I didn't create a Recovery Drive for that computer. I can boot into the BIOS but haven't been able to boot into Safe Mode so I can restore it to an earlier state in time. I've tried all the F keys including Delete key but it refuses to go into Safe Mode. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I strongly recommend that everybody create a Recovery Drive for their specific computer using Windows 10 or any operating system below Win 10. A recovery drive created by one computer will not work on a different computer!

Thank all of you for your responses! I worked with a Microsoft technical representative for nearly 3 hours and after jumping through hoops, it was found to be a USB3 driver problem. Funny think is that I updated that driver before contacting Microsoft and it had no effect, but after trying many flip flops and then going back to the driver update it worked. The rep was very persistent and wanted to uninstall and reinstall the operating system, which would mean that I had to reinstall all my programs. When I was reluctant she decided to try updating the driver and it worked! Thanks again Hogs!