I have hardly ever used manual exposure. I prefer to set the ISO and the aperture, and let the camera choose the shutter speed. By using aperture priority, I am making depth of field the most important thing. Still need to keep an eye on shutter speed to make sure it doesn't get too slow for hand-holding.

There's no way to suggest settings for your trip as it's all about the light :) Read up on exposure, exposure triangle, and the properties of shutter speed (slow to blur, fast to stop action and to minimize blur from camera shake), aperture (to control depth of field, how much of your image is in focus from front to back), and ISO (higher ISO generates digital noise, like a grainy look). Once you understand the basic properties and do some practicing, maybe under controlled conditions, you'll get a better sense of where to start with your settings.

Regarding focus points, as mentioned it's on page 105 of your user manual. There is a button on the back of the camera. See below:

I looked at your last two topics, and saw you mentioned window was open. Definitely some issues going on with focusing or camera movement.

I also saw someone mentioned page 105 of your user manual for setting a single focus point.

Note on pages 42 - 43 suggestions on how to hold the camera, and press the shutter button part way to achieve focus (if using auto-focus), then continue through (don't mash!) with the press. Holding your breath while doing this can help, too. I have recently found I am swaying, forward and back, while trying to hold a camera steady (and mine aren't heavy :) ). So whenever possible I try to lean against something.

There was also quite a bit of discussion in one of your topics about the difference between metering and focusing. Do you have that worked out?

Metering is how the camera determines exposure, how light or dark an image should be (my earlier comments about exposure compensation relate to that).

Focus is achieving clarity of subject, whether manually rotating the ring on the lens, or using auto-focus. I use single-point center in autofocus on my Canon T3i.

Hi Nancy, I saw your comment to me in a newbie's intro topic, about "newest topics" and subscribing to other sub-forums. Have fun, and try not to get addicted - lol.

Re these shots: were they taken through a window? #1 and #3 seem a little "hazy" and not quite in focus. Your shutter speed seems high enough, but perhaps you're moving the camera as you push the shutter button or not waiting quite long enough for the auto-focus?

For the crow: are you familiar with exposure compensation? When you have dark subject against bright or white background, you can use compensation to set a lighter exposure. This will give you more detail in the blacks.

Similar for white bird against dark background: set the compensation for darker, and you will be able to capture more detail in the white feathers.

As for how much to change the exposure, it will depend on the situation; I have sometimes gone as much to 1.3 (plus or minus). You'll soon get a feel for the situation, and you might want to practice with non-moving subjects :)