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Oct 16, 2020 08:55:34   #
bleirer wrote:
I came up with film also. I remember reading about the characteristic curve of the films I was using. In general a properly exposed curve was mildly S shaped and they varied according to the steepness of the slope and where and how strongly the upper shoulder broke over and the same variation on the lower heel area. The steepness of the curve indicated the amount of contrast, and you could vary a little with push or pull processing, or by choosing the contrast grade of the printing paper later.

With digital the curve is at your disposal. You can set your own black point, white point, and middle point. You can go linear, mild S, strong S or any thing else. You can alter the slope by grabbing points in the curve and pulling up or down. Or you can click in the image and raise or lower the curve at exactly that point, sometimes with polarizing results. Luckily the undo or reset button is at hand.

Point being, you dial in your own curve, so as long as you don't blow out important highlights or lose shadows that you needed detail in, the exposure isn't as critical as film.

Worthwhile reading https://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/photoshop-curves.htm
I came up with film also. I remember reading about... (show quote)


thank you . You are correct
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Oct 16, 2020 08:51:27   #
Ysarex wrote:
It doesn't, and you were poorly taught concerning slide film. Slide film has little latitude and should be exposed properly.

There are different ways to approach digital. Is your goal a normal appearance JPEG from the camera? Is your goal a raw file that you intend to post process? Those can be considered differently. If you're goal is a normal lightness JPEG from the camera then treat it like slide film and get the exposure right.

My goal is a raw file that I will post process and so I expose to fully utilize the sensor which pragmatically equates to placing the diffuse highlight at the sensor's clipping threshold.
It doesn't, and you were poorly taught concerning ... (show quote)


here is a quote in case you missed it I'll post it again for you.

I agree with you and shared your learning experience (38 years I worked at the film factory).
Yes overexpose negative film and under expose positive (slide) film. The reason was when you were processing the film and printing in the dark room.... you had more latitude when you negative was a little denser allowing you to recover more information (you could not recover from a thin negative). With slide film because the process actually created the image with the residual silver halide from the exposure (basically the process eliminated the exposed silver halide and then exposed the unused silver halide to create the positive image this also had an impact on the amount of dye (dye coupled) that occurred giving you riche colors and saturation. Most people did this by adjusting the ISO plus or minus from the actual value which would bias your meter to either under expose or over expose. example (ISO 100 set the Camera ISO to 80 to over expose negative film), the inverse for slide film. You just then used normal exposure metering to set your exposure. Now in digital you use a function called exposure compensation and since your dealing with a positive image slightly under exposing tends to work very similar to what we use to do with slide film. This is subject to the metering method you use. But if you are using matrix metering generally using that old film rule to keep from blowing out the highlights works pretty good. It helps if you understand your cameras dynamic range. film vs digital the physics are different but the same rules still work pretty good. I can almost hear all the little guru's telling you why this is BS but it works for me :) have a great day.
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Oct 16, 2020 08:39:26   #
uhaas2009 wrote:
The meter reading between fim and digital is different. I feel that the film camera is more forgiving than digital......


only if shooting Jpeg. If you shoot RAW you have much more latitude to play with in post processing.
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Oct 16, 2020 07:49:49   #
thank you someone that is in the know
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Oct 16, 2020 06:55:31   #
I never said there was a difference between a film meter and a digital meter they are the same. There is however a difference between a incidence meter and a reflective meter which is what is in your camera, film or digital.
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Oct 15, 2020 17:32:10   #
thank you
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Oct 15, 2020 17:30:08   #
thank you I agree with you 100% I never use the matrix meter in the camera as I don't like reflected readings. I never seen a person that was 18% gray. I always use my hand held incident meter and never less than 2 strobes. I'm not a landscape shooter and I never shoot Jpeg. I was well aware that film had more latitude than the paper that was used to print and shot accordingly and digital has more latitude than film which makes it better for post processing that's why I always shoot raw. I don't want the camera to decide how I want my image to look that's why I don't shoot Jpeg. I am a studio photographer and always shoot with strobes. Film is different than slide film and digital is different than them both but one thing that remains the same is light. Understand how to see and use light and you will always have a beautiful end result with little effort.
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Oct 15, 2020 14:36:30   #
thanks I prefer to expose for the high lights as they can't be recovered if blown out other than that I shoot RAW and edit in PS.
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Oct 15, 2020 13:58:21   #
thank you for your answer but I must disagree with your comment about slide film. this is the way I was taught at Kodak and served me well for 40 years as a profession photographer.
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Oct 15, 2020 13:29:42   #
when metering film I was taught in school to expose for the shadows and print for the high lights and with slide film it was best to under expose up to a stop. How does this apply to digital?
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Dec 12, 2019 10:49:10   #
I've always been told that you need 4 times the megapixels before you can see any difference.
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Jul 23, 2019 09:58:33   #
While in Rockport don't forget to photograph the motif # 1 in the harbor. Motif #1 is the most painted scene in the country. It is a building where fishermen bring their catches for market. The best time for me any way is in the morning when the fog is just starting to clear and the harbor is glass calm.
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Dec 5, 2018 17:06:16   #
Thanks everyone for the response. I prefer to do my DE in camera the way I've always have done with film. It takes much less time doing it that way then with PP. I just never saw this question on here before, Thanks again
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Dec 5, 2018 10:12:16   #
E.L.. Shapiro wrote:
I hope I can help.

Are you referring to masking off an area by means of a matte-box or compendium lens shade in front of the lens retaining a mask. When making an in-camera multiple exposure, I would use a BLACK mask- sort of a black vignetter. In a hitch, I would use a black glove and "dodge" out an area or a dark slide from the film holder. I would the place the secondary image in the dodged out space. I used the same technique with both color negative and transparency films with both low and high key subjects. I have done this with digital gear as well.

When you refer to a "color" mask, perhas this is a process which I am not familiar with- please explain- sounds interesting! I have made a second exposure of a colored card to create a tint, a kind of fog layer- sort of an overlay fro some experimental work.

Let me know what you think.
I hope I can help. br br Are you referring to mas... (show quote)


Yes that is how I do it too with a matt box. I just never done it with digital. I was just wondering if someone here has ever tried it. Thanks yoou answered my question.
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Dec 5, 2018 07:38:04   #
Leitz wrote:
Find someone who knows how to use a camera, have them try both, and tell you which is best.


I know how to use a camera, I've been shooting professionally for over40 years. Sounds to me you don't know how to use a camera other wise you wouldn't have sent such a stupid reply.
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