A poster above mentioned an issue about the thickness of his cornea when he later needed cataract surgery. My cornea started to bulge like keritoconitus. Complete nightmare. I also think that monocular vision is a bad idea. Please go to a very experienced surgeon at a facility such as Bascom Palmer. LASIK can cause dry eyes, halos, and other issues that you might not anticipate. If you work on a computer a lot, dry eyes can be very painful. UHH is not the place to get advice about eye surgery. Many people are happy with the results but a lot of times, it has to be redone a few years out.

I don’t know if my prior answer was sent. This really is not the place to ask for such advice. I had a very bad experience with LASIK years ago and had to go to many doctors afterwards to “fix” the problem, including a process called cross-linking. Not everybody had such experiences. After many surgeries, I still have to wear contacts. The best advice is to find a good, experienced ophthalmologist to advise you. Most cameras have a diopter adjustment that might solve your viewfinder issue.

One other suggestion. I just used a 105 macro lens for portraits and I found that it was too sharp for portraits of older people. I previous used an 85 mm 1.4D for the same people and got much better results. It is designed to for portraits. You did not make clear which 105 you have. If it is not a macro, you will be fine as I like that focal length for head shots. I agree that with suggestions that you shoot outside and not in bright sun to avoid squinting. You can experiment with reflectors to cast the light the way that looks best. If you know how to use fill flash that might help. The flash that you own can be set with flash compensation to give you nice results, particularly with a soft box if you have one or an inexpensive soft cover for the flash. Your friend should give you guidance as to what would be best,

Personally, I like to use wider aperture to blow out the backgrounds to separate the subject from whatever is behind them.

I don’t know your level of experience with people shots, but as a general matter use the rule of thirds. If the subject is not moving around, it is easier to accomplish this. Focus is critical, particularly on the eyes.

One other consideration. I don’t know where you live. If it is a cold climate, then an inside shot by a window with soft light might be best. Also, you might try some shots with your friend in the picture. I cherish the photos that I took of my mother as she aged. Since I was taking the pictures, I am not in them.

I think that a lot depends on what you shoot. If you take wildlife, you may look for different things than I do when I take pictures of people, where a good lens with a wide aperture may be more important. I think that the person who started this thread is getting good, practical advice. Again, I cannot emphasize the importance of understanding how to take a good picture. Good equipment is worth it but don’t rule out quality used equipment.

I think that both are important. However, if you don’t learn how to take a good photo, it does not matter what glass or camera you buy. I think that current technology allows fast frames per second, eye focus, and the ability to erase what you don’t like. That might not be the best thing. A good way to learn is to look at photos taken by the masters with basic film equipment. I don’t care what camera you have, unless you understand composition, focus, exposure etc. you will not take great pictures. Sometimes when I travel for work, I take along a good P&S. In looking at old pictures, I got fairly good results in India, Israel, Thailand, etc. with a small Canon. When I had to work in Togo, The Gambia, and Mali, I did bring my film Nikon and a few lenses. (I don’t recommend traveling to West Africa unless you have to). The previous poster emphasized “eye education” and training. He is 100% correct. I used to read a lot of photo posts but found that people were posting pictures of walls and worrying whether they got a good copy of a lens. I found it boring after a while and not useful.

Buy the best equipment that you can afford and don’t rule out good used equipment. I like fast glass, i.e.,wide maximum apertures to blow out backgrounds.

Master your technique. The only thing that you can’t fix in post is focus, so at a minimum lean how to do that.

The Leica rangefinder film cameras and lenses were and are amazing, A film rangefinder camera takes some getting used to. They even were difficult to load the film. Leica made and still makes reflex cameras as well. The lenses for the Leica system are unparalleled IMHO. Some of the most famous photographers used Leicas, such as Herni Cartier-Bresson. If you really want to learn, a rangefinder is a good way to go but the M system is best for street photography. If you really want to see some great Leica photos, check out books by Mary Ellen Mark. The only photo class that I ever took was given by her. She was an.amazing photographer, instructor and a tough critic. I learned a lot from her about seeking subjects, composition and thought. That was the old days when we shot Tru-X at ASA 200 to tighen the grain.

I can’t speak to the current digital Leicas, other than I do have a Type 109; which is great for street photography The M-6 with a Summicron lens 35mm had incredible color rendition and sharpness. I also had a 90mm tele-elmarit that was a great portrait lens. For example, I took my M-6 and the 35mm on a hike in Cambodia and got some of the best best photos that I ever took. I also had a Nikon FE2 with me (but not on the hike) which was great but the pictures did not have the same “pop” as the M-6. I also took the M-6 on a motorcycle trip through the Alps with the same results.

I think that in the film days, you really had to concentrate on your exposure and composition since you really could not shoot off countless pictures and hope that you get a good shot. The Leica Store in Miami puts on a program on the internet every Saturday night with loads of information. They also offer ndividualied lessons on LR. When I sold the M-6 and lenses, I made a significant profit but I still wish that I kept them. You can find a lot of books about Leicas and their lenses. The problem with Leica today (and then) is that they are expensive.

I have used Nikon cameras for over forty years and always liked the quality of the images. On the digital side, I used to have a D200 and now have a used D750. The D200 took excellent photos with minimal, if any, retouching. Same with the D750. I was thinking about getting a D850 or Z7ii but I am staying put with what I have. As to the quality of the pictures, I am using the same Nikon lenses that I always had for over thirty years- 20mm f2.8; 35-70 f2.8; 85 mm f1.4D; 105 mm macro f2.8 and an 80-200 mm f 2.8 (push pull version). I never heard of a bad copy of a lens until I bought the older version of the 24-120 variable aperture lens. If you buy good equipment from any manufacturer, you should not have any issues. Personally, I would concentrate on technique and how to get the most out of software such as LR and Photoshop. You will get a lot of opinions as to manufacturers and the latest and greatest technology. I think that buying good lenses is more important. I had a Leica M-6 that I sold. Leica film cameras and lenses are and were great. There was a noticeable difference in quality of shots with the Leica.

Personally, I would ask a lawyer but if an event is on public property, there should not be an issue. That said, many courthouses, for example, do not permit photography. There are many other issues beyond a public space that must be considered, which are too complicated for this space. There are issues such as a person’s right of privacy, presenting someone in a false light, defamation, etc.

The law also can get complicated as to whether you took or used a persons likeness for commercial gain.

I am NOT giving legal advice but those of you who take videos or make audio recordings, in particular, can run into thorny issues depending upon State and Federal law. Just be careful. Being on the wrong end of a lawsuit is expensive, even if you win.

Make sure that you bring Cipro or whatever your doctor prescribes. I travelled with a small group my first time in Kenya and got great animal pictures. I would make a copy of your passport so that it will make it easier to replace should something happen. Don’t be scared but don’t do foolish things. I have travelled all over the world, including places that no one should go without a problem. A money belt that tucks under your shirt would be a good idea. I think that you will have a great experience.

Bring the best prescription anti-biotic for stomach issues. Make sure to see a travel doctor to get your shots and medicine and bring your vaccination card with you. Check the Department of State and CIA Websites fir safety issues. . I have travelled in Africa for photography and work. Do not go to West Africa; no reason to go there. Be prepared to see a lot of beggars. For photography, bring a long lens. I had a Nikon 80-200 on a film camera in Kenya and it was fine. I suggest that you bring a bean bag or mini-tripod as you will not be walking around in game reserves, I also camped out with a group and it was great, I particularly enjoyed a balloon ride over the migration of the Wildebeests.

The Sony sounds like a good idea. Thanks to the readers of UHH.

Thanks. This seems to be a good choice.

I would like a recommendation for a lightweight travel camera. I have a Fuji system: First, an XE2 and then an XT2. I was disappointed in the results from both Fuji’s, particularly with the kit lens. I have a full Nikon system but it is too heavy to carry around. I do have a Leica Type 109, which is great but the range is short (24-70 equivalent). I was thinking of the Sony A series cameras like the A6600. I still am mystified about the Fuji reviews. I have a 23 f2; 27 f2.8; 50 f2 and 55-300 with an XT2. Thoughts? Could be me but I have been taking pix for over fourth years.

I think that it is useful for manual focusing, particularly if you are adapting a lens from another camera system to your camera. I found it useful for portraiture.