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Posts for: hjkarten
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Jan 5, 2022 14:07:58   #
What are the major benefits to the use of DSLR cameras that are lacking in Mirrorless cameras?
Conversely, what are the benefits to Mirrorless cameras that are not available in DSLRs?
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Jan 2, 2022 13:53:06   #
I read a fair number of the responses on UHH to Tony Northrup's video, but not all of them. So perhaps I missed comments on one of the stranger comments that Northrup made about the purported advantages of DLSRs vs. Mirrorless cameras - specifically his comments about wildlife and bird photography. I fail to understand the rationale of his claim that DSLR is better than MILC for bird photography. As a newbie to birds in flight photography, I was persuaded of the benefits of MILC vs. DSLR.
I have impression that MILC has the following advantages over DSLR for bird and wildlife photography.

Silent shooting - reduces the noise that alarms and often frightens off birds
Eye tracking of birds and mammals
Amazingly fast autofocus
Animal tracking
No blackout in viewfinder between frames when shooting bursts
Much higher rates of Frames Per Second allow MILC to capture timing differences of wing position and configurations of Birds In Flight.
Real time display of ISO changes in image, B&W vs. Color

Most of these benefits can be attributed to the improvements in the Electronic View Finder, which is what allowed camera designers to eliminate the pentaprism and mirror housing.
I fail to understand the passion that Northrup brings to his argument.
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Dec 28, 2021 21:53:15   #
Many excellent suggestions.
I have moderate (?) Parkinsonian tremor, worse in right hand than left. Helped greatly by L-DOPA and propanalol. In addition to using as many aides as possible, i.e., tripod, monopod, gimbal, IBIS shake reduction, remote cable, high speed, you might try another trick I learned a while ago.
Rest your LEFT hand on your RIGHT shoulder.
Your elbow forms the apex of a triangle.
Rest your camera in that triangle with the viewfinder against your forehead.
This works very well when the tremor mostly affect the distal extremity. This is true for many Parkinsonian patients. The tremor mostly impacts your hand, and has less impact on the stability of your elbow and upper arm.
Also suggest that for scenics you use the 2 second delay following when you push the shutter button.
Most important: Don't give up! Most of the benefit of shooting Birds In Flight are the times just contemplating the next photo. My time just walking in the bird marsh is the best part of my day.
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Dec 28, 2021 21:33:34   #
SONY 200-600 mm
SONY 18-135 mm
The statistics are greatly distorted in favor of the SONY 200--600 lens, as I use it in burst mode for Birds in Flight.
Both used on a SONY A7R4.
This may prompt me to reconsider keeping some of my other lenses. But the statistics are distorted by lack of travel due to COVID-19, where I might be more inclined to shoot scenics with wide angle (e.g., Tamron 17-28) and Macro SIgma 105 mm (Awesome lens).
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Nov 20, 2021 17:33:48   #
Can't recall if you specified the brand/model of camera. I use a SONY A7R4. I shifted from a SONY A6500 because of the better ability to line up the bird through the central location of the viewfinder. On the A6500, the viewfinder is at the left edge of the camera, causing it to be more difficult to align with the target.
If the camera is too light, I find it more difficult to hold steady. But if too heavy, it is also hard to hold steady. If using a lens in the 400-600 range, I always rest it on a fixed object (e.g., fence post) or a tripod with a Whimberley gimbal on a tripod.
Try the following:
Take your left hand and rest it on your right shoulder.
Holding camera with your right hand, rest lens on your LEFT elbow.
Tremor usually is more severe in hand than in upper arm. Resting the camera on your elbow minimizes camera shake. Depending on the severity of your tremor, you may even be able to take pictures of small flowers with a macro lens.
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Nov 20, 2021 16:19:53   #
Started to reply, but lost my screen connection.
Just another person speaking about the importance of working beyond your handicap.
Seek the help of a good neurologist to obtain the best treatment to reduce the tremor. Don't give up.Depression is a frequent symptom of the Parkinson's, not only an understandable reaction to personal loss of function. Talk to Neurologist about treatment for the depression that accompanies Parkinson's.
I spent my life as a lab scientist taking very high resolution images with all sorts of microscopes. In retirement, I shoot photos of BIF. My Parkinson's is under reasonable control, and is slowly progressive. But I manage to take decent, sharp pix of BIF. I won't win any awards, but the results are measured by my ability to get the best pix I can manage. I was inspired by the works of Margaret Bourke-White, a legendary news photographer and war photographer. She suffered from debilitating PD, in the time before L-DOPA was discovered to be beneficial for limiting the symptoms of the disease. All the various tips by contributors to this bulletin board will be helpful.
Don't let your disease define who you are.
Harvey
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Nov 14, 2021 01:08:04   #
Touche (can't generate the accent mark on this keyboard). Well done.
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Nov 14, 2021 00:24:43   #
Are you trying to say that 111 is 7?
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Nov 13, 2021 22:32:42   #
User ID wrote:
Nonsense !!!!!!!
Get real. Nobody thinks that way. And Hogsters in particular are huuuuuugely arithmaphobic. Useless numeric chatter.


OK, if you say so!
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Nov 13, 2021 21:43:03   #
It is sometimes helpful to think of different lenses in terms of Angle of View in degrees (AOV) rather than focal length.
THis can be clarifying when using a camera that can photograph in both APS-C and Full Frame formats, such at the SONY A7Rm4.
Rather than thinking about my Tamron 17 -28 mm lens, when used at 17 mm, consider the following way of thinking about the lens:
the AOV of 17 mm as an APS-C = 70 degrees
the AOV of 17 mm as a Full-Frame = 103 degrees.
This will provide a very different and more encompassing image when used for wide panorama Landscapes in Full Frame state.
In order obtain the same Field of View with an APS-C camera, I would need an 11 mm lens. But this would usually require a fish-eye lens with a lot of barrel distortion.
I don't shoot real estate, but I would imagine that the 17 mm in Full Frame would prove more useful than in APS-C. For indoor scenes, the 17 mm at full frame may better suit your wishes.
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Nov 9, 2021 01:14:31   #
Hi Mark,
Once again you scored magnificently with your Osprey photos.
You set a standard to which I can only strive in BIF. But you also highlight the lives of ospreys in a unique and highly educational manner.
Many thanks.
Harvey
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Oct 30, 2021 17:28:26   #
Heart warming. Mazel Tov.
Photo #2, discovering his hands, is a wonderful photo! Someday he will use them to hold that camera!
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Oct 28, 2021 14:27:17   #
11bravo wrote:

Also, a fully articulated screen - don't use it much, but fantastic for shooting over your head photos, ground level photos, even around corners.

Exception is my tough TG-6 that I can carry in my pocket.


TG-5 is a great camera in most regards, with a few major exceptions:
In the absence of a viewfinder, have to hold too far from eye in order to be able to see, even with bifocals. Makes is difficult to hold steady and difficult to compose.
Buttons are very small for my elderly shaky hands.

Pity, as it has so many useful functions and slips in my pocket so easily, truly waterproof, shock resistant. I bought an add-on magnifier, but that is so bulky that it defeats one of the major benefits of the TG-5. As a result, I rarely use it.
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Oct 27, 2021 01:38:25   #
While planning on a 7-10 Sierra trip about 7 years ago, I was discouraged by the burden of hauling my Nikon DSLR D300 up and down steep inclines. That was my first introduction to Mirrorless SONY A6000. I think the combined weight of camera and lens was less than 1 to 1.5 pounds. The pictures were quite pleasing even with the 16-50 mm kit lens. No tripod, but I often found a convenient boulder or tree to rest against.
SOme of them were suitable for printing at 20x30 inches. The camera and lens fit easily into a small fanny pack attached to my waist/waistbelt. I had a small solar charger for restoring the charge to my spare battery.
I mostly now shoot with a A7R4, but for hiking, I now use a A6500 with the same old kit lens. The 6500 has the advantage of a bit better weatherproofing than the A6000, as well as image stabilization. Excellent image quality despite the inexpensive lens, as long as I take a bit of care with aperture and shutter speed. Better glass in lens would mean disproportionate increase in weight. For short day hikes when birding, I use my A7R4 with a very heavy 200-600 mm telephoto. Out of the question for me for long hikes. The A6000 saw me through some pleasing photos on 7-10 day hikes in the Dolomites, Paria Canyon, and a lengthy car camping trip through Canyonlands Nat'l Park. Much as I like the idea of the Olympus TG-5, I found it difficult to get decent composition on the LCD screen. The electronic view finder added only a very few ounces of weight, but provided excellent images for composition even in bright sunlight.
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Oct 6, 2021 01:23:19   #
amfoto1 wrote:
Hi Bob,

You're right... doing your own B&W film processing and printing is relatively inexpensive. I used to really enjoy doing it and still have a complete darkroom accommodating 35mm, medium format and 4x5" film, although it's all boxed up in storage at the moment.

It's another thing entirely shooting color film. I haven't done much of that recently, but in the past...

Slide film cost about 50 cents per shot.... Bought in bulk 36 exposure rolls cost me about $6 or $7 each, while it cost $13 or $14 per roll to have it processed. I bet it's more than this now!

Color print film developed locally cost about the same as slides, for the general consumer using a typical "one hour" lab and getting a stack of 4x6 prints made by some pimply kid making minimum wage.

Color print film processed at pro lab level was much more expensive due to greater care in the processing and larger, color balanced prints. This could run as much as $2 a shot!

It's not practical to do your own color slide or color negative processing.

It is possible to do color printing, but pricey. I did it many years ago and really didn't see much savings over having consumer grade prints made. Color printing is much harder than B&W. Color print processing time and temperatures have to be more tightly controlled.

Comparing the cost of shooting digital needs to consider more than just the purchase of the camera, which initially was a lot more than a film camera. Granted, prices of digital cameras have come down considerably. I recall my first DSLR... with all of 6MP and a fairly basic AF system... cost $2400 with a battery grip in 2004. In comparison, a high-end film camera with battery grip that I'd bought just a few years earlier cost $800. There's been a lot of inflation since, but the overall cost per MP of digital cameras has come down considerably.

However to "shoot digital" you also need memory cards, a computer, software, storage drives and potentially a backup service. None of those things are free.

Many people who bought a film camera would use it for decades, where with digital many (most?) people "feel the need" to upgrade every 2 or 3 years.

First there were digital that had short life spans. One popular Olympus camera had a shutter life of about 20,000 clicks, so a lot of them were being returned for shutter replacement under warranty.

Then the megapixel race started.... 1.2MP... 1.5MP... 3MP.... 6MP... 8MP... 10 and 12MP... 15MP... 18MP... 20 and 21MP... 24MP... now 26MP and even 32.5MP... or you should upgrade to full frame for 45MP, 50MP, even 60MP... or to medium format for 100MP!

Meanwhile there was also a features race going on... image stabilization, CCD to CMOS, fancier and fancier AF systems, IBIS, faster and faster frame rates, memory card changes, yada, yada, yada!

Now we have to dump our 3 year old DSLRs and buy a mirrorless camera, if we want to avoid being "outcasts"!
Hi Bob, br br You're right... doing your own B&am... (show quote)


If I recall correctly, in the early days of digital photography with color chips, the chips provided 640x480 pixels. The chips were with Bayer Masks, meaning that the resolution was about 1/4 of that size for Red and Blue, and 1/2 for green. Our gold standard for high resolution was Kodachrome 25, which was estimated to provide the massive number of 20-25 Megapixels! Far beyond anything we might dream of for early digital cameras.

For really high resolution images in B&W we used astronomy films of 8x10 inches with resolution of 2000 lines per inch.
When digital cameras reached 20-24 Megapixels (RGB with Bayer Mask), we were overjoyed. Then over the past few years, we reached 60-100 MPixels (Bayer), noise levels beyond our dreams with acceptable images even at ISO- 3200. We had other tricks up our sleeves, e.g., using monochrome cameras with an array of changeable filters for Red, Green and Blue, giving us "True" RGB for every pixels. (Still the Gold Standard). Alternately, we could really blow the bank, and buy 3 Chip CCD cameras. The prospect of taking high speed combined with high resolution images, at high Frames per Second of birds in flight was the stuff dreams were made of. Cropping images of small birds with high density chips changed the BIF game.
Well, the latest generation of images compromised with Bayer masks on APS-C cameras, providing 24 frames per second. Then the game upped thestakes, with 60 MegaBytes at 10 frames per second, and now (perhaps soon to be surpassed) cameras that provide 30 frames per second. The prospect of Avalanche detectors promises chips with ISO of 1 million or more, with virtually no noise.
When analyzing the resultant photos of Birds In Flight, we can now see details of subtle changes in feather position, wing configuration, head orientation, tail disposition, lifting coverrts, etc., that were almost unavailable even 10 years ago, except for people with terribly expensive cameras ($50,000 - $100,000 cameras). And the future holds even more remarkable developments, with Avalanche detectors, higher speed storage media, UV and IR channels with simultaneous RGB, etc. This is part of the art of technical photography, and the esthetics are fascinating and exciting to behold. This doesn't abolish the appeal of Film and Tray development, but it is part of an expanding world of the wonders of photography. Photography is a field that has been around for 170 years, and keeps growing. There is fortunately room for all these methods.
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