Bill, I think you have what you need a full frame camera with a 2.8 zoom (24-105). I would not buy a 2.0 extender, but I do like my 1.4 better (may use it for the eclipse, but not the 2.0). In street photography, I shoot 24-120 and I am very happy. At the end of any year, my 24-70 2.8 is always the winner. Hope this helps,
Cliff

I have a bracketing issue with my D850. Simply put, when camera is instructed to bracket 5F 1.0 with following sequence -2, -1, 0, +1, +2 in manual mode with ISO locked down, aperture locked down and shutter priority set to 1000. The anticipated result should be 1/250, 500, 1000, 2000, 4000 and in that order (Bracketing Order is - +). Exposure Step Value =1.

What is happening is 1/1000 -2, 500 -1, 250 0, 125 +1, 60 +2. It is taking the opening value and bracketing downward from there. I have concerns here, but the camera is still following step value instruction (sequence -2, -1, 0, +1, +2) but the end product is linear in one direction.

Please note 5F 1.0 is the setting and not -3F.

Similar results for 3F 1.0 as well.

Now, switch to aperture priority mode with ISO locked down. The camera is setting shutter speed, and all works exactly as expected (sequence -2, -1, 0, +1, +2) and in the correct order (Bracketing Order is - +). I have two underexposed and two over exposed.

Unique to the camera? No, both D850s operate the same way.

So in manual mode with the desire to lock down aperture & ISO and set my opening shutter speed…how do I do it to achieve 2 under and 2 over?

Here in Texas, we have spent months in preparation for "The Great Texas Eclipse"...even the governor is on board and will allow the Eclipse to enter the US from Mexico. In light of our weather forecast, we are considering showing reruns of Matlock.

Remember, Totality will cross the US in under one hour, so stations to the NE will pick it up.

This is not true. Safe for camera but not for you.

Look up your filter on B&H and read the print at the end of the article. After a presentation in Dallas\Plano we did a deep dive into ND filters (yes, I use ND5). If you use DSLR, use live view other than total eclipse.

B&H, ND5 filter at random, "... Never use photographic neutral density filters for direct solar viewing, viewing the sun through an optic, or when using cameras with an optical viewfinder."

At this date, you are most likely toast unless a camera store is nearby. No, you cannot use 10x and I would not recommend stacking filers either for several reasons. Also, do not use a variable. If you want an ND filter, then find ND5 - 1000000 and let me suggest one that uses a magnet ring to snap on and off.

Caution - you cannot look through the lens on a DSLR camera at the sun with a ND filter and must use live view. If you have a mirrorless, you are fine.

Step 1 is missing - level the picture. Yes, this is a form of cropping. Caveat - never edit an image in camera (saw reference in other threads). No tripod, all kind of solutions but your camera most likely has on screen or through view finder a leveler.

Suggest using LRC and you up your game with Topaz products.

Let me make one adjustment to the Black Rapid - add a Arca Swiss connector to the end. This allows you the ability to quickly shoot and make the weight more comfortable. I have used two straps it to carry two D850s both with L-brackets. If carrying a long lens (D850+L backet+200-500) the weight is almost 10lbs, be sure to connect to the lens foot.

Let me make one adjustment to the Black Rapid - add a Arca Swiss connector to the end. This allows you the ability to quickly shoot and make the weight more comfortable. I have used two straps it to carry two D850s both with L-brackets. If carrying a long lens (D850+L backet+200-500) the weight is almost 10lbs, be sure to connect to the lens foot.

Great idea

Jacksonville, I am in Athens and watching the weather closely.

First and above all else, you are NOT in the path of totality. Send me a PM and I will send you my presentation. You have to move west about 70 miles. If you are not in the path, you will be using your filter the entire time.

A lot of good advice here and some neat tools. Here is a simple idea, using your solar glasses use the hot shoe mount like a gun sight and find the sun. Now using a lens not exceeding 700mm on a full frame camera in landscape mode point the camera (glasses off) up and then using live view move the sun to lower left corner. You may have about 2 minutes before your next adjustment to the right.

This is the week to practice this all of this in your yard. By the way, shot many times from Love's Lookout.

Focus Stacking…non-Macro. Have you ever seen a professional landscape image used in advertising and noticed everything is tack sharp?

First, good news, all you need is a camera and tripod.

Just got back from a 4-day shoot in Texas hill country and will start production on numerous stacked images of bluebonnets. One stack I am really excited about is a railroad track overrun by bluebonnets leading up to an old truss bridge.

First shot is always the same, your hand (more on this in a moment). Next image is to manually focus on the flowers closest to you. Make sure they are tack sharp. Typically, I use aperture or manual priority and ISO set to native (64 Nikon – 100 Canon). My f\stop is a function of how I feel about the image and what I anticipate the number in the stack (usually 3 to 7). Wiser people may tell you to shoot wide open, would like to see their response. All of your settings other than manually focusing do not change.

Next shot, a few flowers further away. Then the next is a cactus in the middle of the tracks followed by further flowers and last is the bridge. The last image is your hand again (no focus, just shoot it). The hand tells you after uploading the start and stop of the stack.

I stack the images using LRC (left click, Edit In, look at last “open in layers in PS”) round tripping to PS. This creates the image I will process\produce.

Thank you, thank you

My Nikon D850s (two) has two different readouts for firmware:

D850 – Firmware Version
C 1.30
LD 2.018
LF 1.00

D850A – Firmware Version
C 1.30
LD 2.018

Anyone know what LF1.00 represents? Is it legacy? The firmware of D850A was done today.

Always remove card and upload into the computer. Reformat the card only in the camera. These are best practices.

I fried my Olympus camera motherboard with a direct hookup.

Tote1940 - HOPE YOU SEE THIS - tonight - go to Plano Photography Club webpage. Our monthly meeting starts at 6pm (Q&A) and main meeting starts at 7pm. Come as my quest (Cliff McKenzie). PPC is the largest club in Texas, one of the largest in the nation.

I am coming off a 5 presentation tour on the Eclipse and you can have a copy (PPC webpage). Hill Country? last Sunday due to a NE wind, you would have left Dallas and gone toward Hot Springs (no, really), I cover what you have to do the morning of the event. Raw always and yes, you have to remove the filter, without moving the camera and place back when 1% shows.

I am easy to find...always one of the speakers. Hope you make it.