Willy wrote:
Greetings folks,
I'm saving up to purchase my 1st Macro Lens. I find the specs to be a bit confusing between a 100MM & 180MM.
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/647011-USA/Canon_3554B002_EF_100mm_f_2_8L_Macro.html
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/112541-USA/Canon_2539A007_Telephoto_EF_180mm_f_3_5L.html
Both of these lenses are advertised to have 1x magnification and
1:1 Maximum Reproduction Ratio
Intuitively, I would think the 180mm would enlarge a subject more than the 100mm. For instance, I want a shot of a bee on a flower petal to fill the frame. The 180mm would be better at this than the 100mm. I am a bit confused as to why the magnification specs are the same for both theses lenses.
Any and all help understanding this will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Willy
Greetings folks, br I'm saving up to purchase my... (
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When photographing an object at actual size, (1:1), the distance from the object being photographed to the sensor inside the camera, (distinguished by the circle with a line through it on the camera body), is four times the focal length of the lens, therefore a longer focal length lens will result in a greater distance between the front element and the subject.
Trevor Dennis wrote:
BTW I am so pleased that I have not yet seen anyone refer to a camera lens by the generic term 'glass' in this forum. That has to be one of the worst photographerÂ’s affectations there is!
We all have our little foibles - to me the term 'snap' is the worst of all affectations- it really is a four letter word!
.Alisha. wrote:
I'm not a pro...
White balance, exposure and bracketing photos. If you use auto white balance, the camera will leave your subjects very dark because of the bright reflection off of the snow. Depending on what you use to shoot with, see if the possibility exists to bracket photos. Each picture you take will produce 3. One will be the setting you shot with, one will be overexposed, one will be underexposed according to the settings you put in.
With couples zoom in close to their faces or don't include large amounts of snow in the frame. Lots of options.
I'm not a pro... br White balance, exposure and br... (
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Auto white balance does not affect the exposure of the picture, so will not result in the subject being dark. It may however result in an unwanted colour cast, usually blue, so you may need to experiment with different W.B. settings depending on the quality of the ambient light. Using auto exposure will generally result in an underexposed subject and you will need to dial in some exposure compensation to corect this. Anything from plus one to two stops should be okay.
Hankwt wrote:
I have read alot of info concerning hyperfocal calculators that it has me a bit baffled . I think i follow the general idea of focusing so far into a scene to get optimum sharpness however when i look at these charts they become a little baffling - they refer to - distance to subject and focus distance in feet or meters .......... On one hand they say that being a little off of these distances can effect focus- what am i supposed to do Get out a tape measure ??? i dont think i can estimate the difference between
1102 feet and 1827 feet !!!! can someone steer me straight to a good understanding or an awesome website / calculator ??
they also say a good rule of thumb is one third into the scene again an estimate ?? is that all it is is estimates ?? the dang calculators seem to go to numbers like 57.9 feet etc really decimal places of a foot ?? my longest tape measure is only 100 feet so it isnt going to help me on a pic across a 200 foot river .......... oh dear lord now i have to walk across water with a bigger tape measure HELP !!!!!!
I have read alot of info concerning hyperfocal cal... (
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Hi, generally speaking, by focussing one third into the scene you will ensure the greatest D.of F. Don't get too hung up about guestimates, unless you are extremely close to your subject it does'nt matter that much.
Cheers,
Pete.
Yes, it's a technique that works well with both film and digital, but has the advantage that you don't have to wait for the light levels to drop outside, as sometimes that is not possible.
Hi, while good results can be obtained from HDR, there is a way to achieve the effect you want in camera without any post processing work. Please see my reply to your post in the main photography forum. The explanation is rather long winded which is why I don't repeat it here.
Cheers,
Pete.
Hi, there is a way to achieve the result you want without resorting to HDR, it is called balanced flash, and entails using your flashgun to balance the light inside with the light outside. Using your camera in Manual mode take test shots at different apertures using your flash to light the interior. When you achieve correct exposure, (say at f8), then go to the window and point the camera outside using the same aperture, (f8), and adjust the shutter speed until it is correct for f8. You now have the correct shutter speed/aperture combination to ensure that both the outside and the inside are exposedb correctly. Sorry this is longwinded, it is easier to do than to explain. Try it!