I saw that too. I’m curious how the images will be used, processed, printed, and published. Hopefully we can all find out. I don’t recall seeing a flash used either. I wonder what film he uses. Seems like he must be shooting wide open at a real slow shutter speed.
Delete the jpegs. You can always produce new ones from the raws if you need to print some day.
I have my eye on the 28-70 f/2.0 for wedding and portrait work. I would miss my 70-200 but all in all I could shoot an entire wedding without changing lenses or using two bodies.
For still subjects I usually use the single point center method and recompose as needed. For moving subjects I position the focus point to anticipate the final composition. I use an R5 and love being able to move to any point on the screen. I pick up a 5D4 to other day and found 61 points too limiting to capture sharp focus on moving high school graduates composed on the left or right side of the frame. So depending on what you’re shooting, the more the better. Of course the eye focus feature on the R5 is the best new thing ever when you can isolate individuals. When photographing people, I use it most of the time. For field sports, 50% of the time.
I use a Rouge Flash Bender attachment for my flash in most cases for party photos. I also bounce light of walls when possible. Whenever I use auto settings of any type, including TTL, I find myself constantly adjusting exposure to counter tonal issues that deviate from mid gray. So I never bother with them and use all manual settings with the camera and flash. I am constantly checking exposure with my review screen and making adjustments when necessary. Once you get the hang of manual you will find yourself adjusting in advance and nailing the exposure more accurately, and more often than and type of auto setting. For focus I set a multi-point zone and move it left or right as needed in Servo Mode (continuous).
Do your best to shoot formals in a backlit situation. Fill flash can be helpful but don’t overdo it. The sand will create enough reflected light so as to brighten eyes. Off-camera flash is best but wind will likely blow your stand over. So employ an assistant if possible. A reflector can be better than flash but your assistant will need some training. Reflectors and their effectiveness are harder to master than you would think. Hopefully you can get the B&G out for additional portraits around 8:30-9:00 for the golden hour and shoot all natural.
Good Luck!
Nice work, and always interesting history/commentary. Thanks for sharing.
philo wrote:
depending on your camera...be sure that the focus point is in the center. On my r6 i have to check this all of the time. Also try using manual focus on your lens
I know this not related to the OP but if you find your focus point shifting on the R6, it is most likely because you have touch control activated. I found my nose was moving the focus point when I brought the camera to my face. Disable and the problem goes away.
Wrench/screen 4/Touch Control