I can't help you...but I got so excited when I saw your camera 'cause I just dug my dad's camera out of the bottom of the hope chest. It doesn't have wood..it's all black. The bellows are in perfect shape. I took pictures of it to show everyone here, but can't get pictures off my memory card right now to show to you. It's also an Eastman Kodak; No.1 (looks like possibly an A after the 1..not sure), Series 2, Pocket Kodak.
My dad was born in 1905, so I'm guessing this may be from 1915-1920. I believe I have pictures that were taken with this camera. I can't wait to show it to you! Good luck with yours!

I hit something wrong. Anyway if you want to do this you need film & chemicals. You can get them from Freestyle Photographic. "Go to eBay for your film holders. If they seem high over $7 wait a few days and look again. To develope the film you need three pans about 8 X 10 or a little bigger whatever you have. You need to get in a room or closet that is completley dark. Unload the film from the film holder put it in the first tray that has developer in it (I use D76) for the amount of time it needs. You use a guide that comes with the developer that tells how long at what ever temp it is 68 degress is best. Before I had a timer I would pick some songs on an LP that were about the time I needed and go in the dark and start when that son came up. Then you move it to a stop bath. I used water for 2 min then move to fixer this takes about 10 min you can turn a light on after about 3 It may be cloudy but will clear up. You need to swish the film around severel times in each step. Then you wash the film for about 30 min and hang it up to dry. Now you have a neg that you can scan and with some programs pring from there or you can print them in a dark room shich is much like doing the film. You just put the negative on top of photographic paper and turn a whitle light on for 20 sec (this can take a lot more or less time. To find out how long use 1x4 paper and make a test then use more time if too light and less if to dark. You can do the printing with a safe light. I have used red or orange christmas lights and they worked. I'm sure that this is all clear as mud but may give you and idea what you need to do - Dave

First question I think of is does it have a lens/shutter. Can't tell from the photos. It would use a leaf shutter with elements mounted to it and mounted to a lens board. Even if you could use it you probably have no idea what you're dealing with shooting 4x5 or 5x7 sheet film. A royal pain! :lol: Keep us up to date! :thumbup:

Lens appears to have a lot of fungus or seperation of the internal elements. I'd love to have the camera to add to my collection as a conversation piece. To use? Hell no! :lol:

What a great deal you got. Check to see if when you select the shutter speeds, turn the dial all the way and see if it locks the shutter open. And it looks like the lens needs cleaning. BTW. You can take the lens/shutter to a camera repair shop. They use to do this for free, but I don't know if they still do. They can run the shutter through the different speeds and give you the real shutter speed. The spring for the shutter changes over the years as they get older. If you know what the shutter is actually exposing at, it doesn't matter what it says on the lens. If you are not going to play with it, then it isn't an issue. I would place it in our great room and use it as room decor. You may be able to find an old wooden tripod for it as well.

Some of the older lenses had a T setting. You press the shutter release once - the shutter opens. Press it again - the shutter closes. If it doesn't have that - B setting and a cable release with a locking screw will do it. Some of the lenses also had a shutter hold button or lever on the outside ring of the shutter.

You focus it by moving the rear standard forward and back making the bellows shorter and longer. The back of the camera, when the film holder it out, should be ground glass on to which the image is projected. The image will be upside down and and backward. An advantage to the SLR camera. Hope that helps a bit. The image on the ground glass will not be really bright. Use a very opaque "dark cloth" to assist with the focusing.