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Nov 4, 2020 09:46:50   #
bela1950 wrote:
Thank you. As long as I know it's not defective. I'm happy, but I do wish it wasn't so loud.

I recently borrowed a friend's D850 - had to turn my hearing aid down!
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Nov 4, 2020 09:37:07   #
bobburk3 wrote:
If MF means manual focus, the lens is pretty much useless in manual focus mode. Because it is so jerky, I can't fine tune the focus in manual.

Please clarify - is it jerky when focusing manually, when zooming (changing focal lengths), or both? Zooming should always be smooth, focusing can be rough if you're manually focusing while AF is on, unless the lens has manual override. That can also damage the lens.
Sounds like the lens need servicing, which may or may not be cost effective.
For what it's worth, I recommend the right tool for the job - an autofocus lens for autofocusing, a manual focus lens for manual focusing, Good luck!
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Nov 3, 2020 15:41:46   #
bobburk3 wrote:
... I like to zoom the focus during the exposure to create an interesting effect.

Unless you are aiming for the look of a bowl of oatmeal, try zooming with the focal length ring instead of the focus ring.
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Nov 1, 2020 21:30:37   #
Blues Dude wrote:
I was going through some old boxes and found 6 rolls of undeveloped B&W film: 4 Ilford FP4, 1 Kodak Tmax 400 and 1 Kodak Tri-X 400. I still have my old film developing gear, but it's been decades since I last processed any film. Is there one developer, stop bath and fixer that I can use on all these films? Thanks for your help and suggestions.

All three films can be developed in ID-11 or D-76.
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Nov 1, 2020 13:29:06   #
srt101fan wrote:
There have been many topics and posts addressing sky replacements in photographs. I do not want to regurgitate old arguments regarding the legitimacy and ethical correctness of doing that. Neither do I want to revive the debates about the validity of photo manipulation in general. I'm looking for a different perspective.

Many if not most photos with sky replacements posted here just don't look that good to me. I question the value added, the commonly accepted premise that a photo with a "boring" sky will be made much better with a different sky. And the result is too often an image with overly dramatic clouds that compete with and take away from the main subject. I know that people like dramatic skies and that these types of images sell better. But why?

Does anyone out there agree with me, or am I just out of synch with the rest of the world?
There have been many topics and posts addressing s... (show quote)

The independent thinker will not be influenced by the opinion of others.
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Oct 30, 2020 16:07:06   #
Martin wrote:
I would like some feedback on this. I currently belong to a camera club and was a past president. In our club the members are either A or B photographers. If an A photographer enters a different venue he can become a B photographer. I disagree with this as it isn't fair to the B photographers. If a member is an A photographer in prints they can become a B photographer in Digital. I feel this has to be changed. The only thing is sending the same print digitally.

Thanks for the feed back

I sympathise with you. Must be rough being forced to belong to a club whose rules you disagree with.
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Oct 28, 2020 15:56:47   #
Kaowdo wrote:
I'm a senior, and I'm very new to all this. I got a Canon DSLR SL1 to take jewelry photo's. I got a very nice 'light tent'...with built in lights. My Camera did not come with a flash attachment. I've been reading up on Aperatures. Less Aperatures...more light. Should I get a flash attachment, or can I make it work with using Aperatures? Thanks in advance

Cameras do not normally come with a flash attachment - you generally have to order it separately.
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Oct 24, 2020 08:44:03   #
R.G. wrote:
So many of the threads in this forum, and in particular in this section, end up bloated and spiralling down into slanging matches. I can't help thinking that those threads would be far more constructive and edifying if we could identify and avoid the usual derailer subjects and associated behaviours.

One of the main ones that I've identified is what I'll refer to as High Horse Syndrome - people forming strong and very entrenched (i.e. inflexible) opinions on various subjects. I'll list what I see as some of the most common problematic opinions.

1) Post processing is for fixing mistakes that should have been avoided at the time of capture.

2) Post processing's main purpose is for creating fakery of various kinds.

3) To be able to proclaim authoritatively what a real photographer is or isn't, you need to be a fully fledged member of the High Order of Self-Appointed Real Photographers. The same condition applies to being able to declare what a real photograph is or isn't.

4) If you let the camera do anything for you, you can't call it "manual".

5) If you give an image any post processing, it's not a representation of reality. And you should have been able to get it exactly right in camera, so shame on you.

If you want to make a suggestion of your own or elaborate on any of my suggestions, feel free.
So many of the threads in this forum, and in parti... (show quote)

Unfortunately, you're not the only big head here who pretends to be qualified to say what other's opinions ought to be on this subject. One opinion is as valid as the other.
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Oct 24, 2020 05:59:29   #
Delderby wrote:
I feel less needful of extra dynamic range than some (many). Unless the detail in that part of an image cast in shadow is of real importance, is it wrong to include a natural looking shadow in a photograph? (even if inky black next to sunlit subjects).
When chatting dynamic range, it is not unusual for someone to say that the human eye has a greater dynamic range than does a camera’s sensor, but surely the truth is not so – a camera’s sensor together with it’s adjustable aperture can have just as great a dynamic range. The eye also has an aperture – which adjusts as the direction of our vision roams over dark and light areas, I have looked at brightly lit areas, conscious that in the corner of my vision are very dark areas. I have also been blinded by sunlight when exiting a darker house (equivalent to blown highlights)? Of course, this effect can be overcome with the help of the latest Ray-Bans.
Attached is a pic I shot a couple of days ago – there is a dark corner (bottom left) would you leave it or PP lighten it?
I feel less needful of extra dynamic range than so... (show quote)

It doesn't appear to me that there is any important detail there, so I would leave it as it is. It does not detract.
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Oct 24, 2020 05:38:31   #
User ID wrote:
Yes. Not noticed by most most users but it’s really there. Attaching a +diopter always reduces the FL of the lens. That is how it enables closer focus. So you indeed do have a wider angle lens.

When a +diopter changes your 50 to a 28, it’s a very real 28, a wide angle. Since the lens barrel is built for a 50, you now have 22mm of “extension tube” between your camera and your newly created 28mm wide angle.

You would get exactly the same result if you take a factory made 28 WA and a 22mm extension tube and mount the combo to your camera.

I just chose 50 and 28 for illustrative purpose cuz they’re familiar to most users. Various +diopters on various lenses will result in different numbers, but a +diopter will ALWAYS shorten the FL of the main lens. So, yes, it has a wide angle effect. That’s why you get a short working distance and is why most users want a long FL (~100 or 200mm) macro lens, to increase working distance.
Yes. Not noticed by most most users but it’s reall... (show quote)

What diopter close-up lens would one need on a 50mm lens to equal the magnification of a 28mm lens with a 22mm extension tube?
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Oct 23, 2020 08:12:50   #
joderale wrote:
I think a shoulder bag is best for my needs.

Best to first be sure how you want to carry it. Then determine how you want to pack it. And decide how you want to access your gear. Then you'll be ready to copy what others do.
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Oct 22, 2020 08:02:09   #
Lknack wrote:
-Is the 90mm macro worth getting over a set of extension tubes and using with the 2 lenses I already have. Both the 18-135 and the 70-350 are pretty sharp. Thanks for any advise.

A macro lens is best for flat copy and handier for moving subjects. For static three-dimensional subjects your present lenses with extension tubes will produce excellent results, little or no loss of image quality up to at least 1:1 magnification. I set my lens at infinity, select the magnification with the zoom and move in or out to focus.
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Oct 20, 2020 13:01:35   #
Mainridge wrote:
Thank-you for your suggestions and your encouragement. I appreciate it.

If you use "Quote Reply" we'd know who you're thanking and for what!
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Oct 20, 2020 11:08:17   #
n4jee wrote:
The only people that should care what anyone else buys should be stock holders in that company. They both learned to make optics from the Germans during WWII. The German teachers brought cameras to photograph their travels. They both introduced their first production camera in 1948. Each new model since then has some new feature that the other doesn't have. So, at any given time one might have the edge over the other. For most of us the decision to buy one or the other is economic. We have an inventory of one manufacturers lenses that we can't afford or can't be bothered to replace. There are some idiots in the world that think everyone should own what they own. Maybe to validate their own decision. They probably have an opinion on Fords vs Chevys too.
While Canon and Nikon have been the leaders for a long time there are now many other choices. So if you're looking for a new camera, don't ask here. You'll just get a bunch of BS. Read the reviews. fondle the hardware and make up your mind what's right for you.
Remember I said those Germans, that came to Japan to teach, brought cameras? Look at daddy and his two children by different wives.
The only people that should care what anyone else ... (show quote)

You might want to check your facts. Nikon was making optics in 1917. The first Canon cameras were fitted with Nikon lenses. Today, both companies produce excellent cameras and lenses - which is best depends upon which ignorant fanboy you listen to.
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Oct 20, 2020 07:54:11   #
CHG_CANON wrote:
I've been setting my alarm and being up before sunrise. It the sky isn't clear when the sun comes out, I just go back to bed.

If the sky isn't clear, how can the sun come out?
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