Ugly Hedgehog - Photography Forum
Home Active Topics Newest Pictures Search Login Register
Posts for: Toby
Page: <<prev 1 ... 142 143 144 145 146 147 148 149 next>>
Apr 21, 2012 23:53:02   #
Sharon S. wrote:
My Tamron 28-75 lens has always been one of my favorites. However, when I try to use it now it says that the lens is not communicating with the camera (I have a Canon XSi). I have also tried it on my Canon Rebel XT, getting the same result. The readout tells me to clean the connections on the lens. I went to Google for suggestions and have tried the pencil eraser. I then took it to a camera store and, of course, it worked for him. When it got home I tried it again and it didn't work. Kind of like taking your child to the doctor and the fever is gone. Any suggestions for cleaning the lens connection. I miss having this lens.
My Tamron 28-75 lens has always been one of my fav... (show quote)


I have had the same problem with a tamron lens and a Sigma lens. After exhausting different ways to clean the contacts I finally got a hold of the manufacturers. In both instances thay had me return the lens (fortunately they were under warranty) and they fixed the problem. The problem was not contacts.

Unfortunately, just today the problem has reoccurred on the Tamron. If it continues I will have to return it once again for repair. Nice to have a long warrenty but I would rather have a good lens. This has not been a problem with any of my Canon lenses ...yet.
Go to
Apr 20, 2012 11:04:47   #
PhotoArtsLA wrote:
cableguy wrote:
I am assisting in a wedding shoot Sat. May 21st. One of the pics the bride wants is the Bride and Groom are walking towards each other. The final picture is multiple images of the bride & groom walking towards each other until they reach each other and imbrace. My question is how is this accomplished. Is it multiple pics and post processing. If so how is it done?


Ah, walking pictures. In the pro world, when you see a walking picture, the model is not actually walking. The reason is, to attempt to shoot a person walking normally guarantees awkward placement of every limb. I once photo edited a 200+ shot sequence of a model walking toward the photographer, a semi pro, who walked backwards in pace with the model to keep the image size close to the same in each shot.

For arguments sake, I will say the sequence had 200 images. Of those 200, exactly ZERO were acceptable. The model looked awful, completely awkward. Had the photographer known how to shoot a "walking shot" he could have had at least dozens of good frames, having shot so many.

So, here is how walking images are done:

The model simply rocks toward the front foot, where the body line is controlled, the hand positions are controlled, and the expression controlled. Another way to put it: the model makes a half step into a pose, NOT stepping randomly, which creates the awkward, gawky, awful looks.

With two people doing a sequence walking toward each other, then it is done with several individual setups, using the same technique. The photographer decides on the pose needed for each, ever closer image. The only thing that matters is that the bride and groom sync their half step moves toward each other.

Shooting this way may seem non-spontaneous, but the result will be MUCH better than any other attempt. Actually moving toward each other guarantees less than acceptable images, and will finally appear amateurish.

Using the correct technique, with the shooting camera on a tripod, NOT moving the camera between shots because when controlled, you don't have to... will allow the "movement" sequence to be composited into ONE image.

Make SURE that the final embrace is ALSO shot in closeup in a second pass.

Nuff said...

Have a good shoot!
quote=cableguy I am assisting in a wedding shoot ... (show quote)


Very good point about the walking pics. I shoot track and almost always the runners look awkward. Hard to get the perfect pic even when shooting at 6 pic/second bursts. Doesn't seem to be a problem for other sports, maybe because the focus is on something other than running.
Go to
Apr 17, 2012 11:27:01   #
You are correct, shutter speed is what you use to stop action, however, getting enought light during the day should not be a problem. In aperature priority or shutter priority you have a choice as to what your camera can change to meet the lighting conditions needed. If you use shutter priority the depth of field will vary as the aperature changes from shot to shot to make sure lighting conditions are met. If you use aperature priority the camera will vary the shutter speed to meet the lighting conditions. If you have the ISO set high enough so that the minimum shutter speed is always fast enough (1/500) any variations in speed made by the camera will only be increases in speed and will not be noticed in the photo. Hope this is clear. Different problems occur if it is darker or you cannot set your ISO high enough.

One other tip, you may want to set your exposure compensation up or down depending on the brightness difference between the faces and the background.
Go to
Apr 17, 2012 10:56:36   #
I would strongly recommend shooting aperature priority and wide open which is probably f3.5 to 5.6 on that lens. Set the ISO so that the speed is 1/500 or more when zoomed out. Compare these to the previous shots you have made and you will be a convert. This mode will make the athlete stand out from the rest of the background. Most sports photos are made this way. Take a look at Sports Illustrated for inspiration.
Go to
Apr 17, 2012 10:28:40   #
Mike, now you have gone and done it. Ever have a room where there is a spot on the rug or wall and you didn't notice it until your wife pointed it out? Now every time you walk into the room you see it even though others do not. Well now every time you see a pic you will notice the noise regardless of how bad. You have increased your knowledge and decreased you satisfaction.
Go to
Apr 17, 2012 10:21:20   #
I have found that I often tend to hold most of the camera weight with my right hand and when I click the shutter my hand jerks slightly. I really have to concentrate in making my left hand hold most of the weight and just lightly touch the shutter. I shoot sports so a tripod or remote won't work. Sometimes I can use a mono.

I have no idea where the breakoff between IS (or VR) on and off is so unless I am on a tripod I leave it on. If some one knows when to shut it off please comment.
Go to
Apr 15, 2012 10:39:16   #
Two comments, shooting from the 1st base area gets shots of right handers and the action at 1st base, otherwise 3rd base is better. Better angle on 2nd base steals, more important action as runners round third for home and one other big benefit. At 3rd base you can focus on the batter thru the viewfinder and watch the pitch with the left eye. This improves you timing tremendously. Of coure 3rd base positioning also allows you to get left handed batters faces.

Most of this is for HS and above. If you are shooting little guys that may not be able to hit out of the infield, concentrate on their emotions which will sell more pics than big plays.
Go to
Apr 15, 2012 09:50:28   #
All things considered I think you did quite well. May have set exposure comp up a little but a little PP should be fine. White balance looks great.

One thought, not as a criticism, I wonder what would have happened if there were a light set behind them?

A lot of work, saved some money, nice job.
Go to
Apr 13, 2012 13:21:56   #
Mudshark ---AMEN
Go to
Apr 13, 2012 13:12:40   #
Tea8 wrote:
jerryc41 wrote:
Toby wrote:
That's the most ridicules thing I ever heard. You cannot copyright a scene such as this. They did not steal or copy your photo they created their own. Get over it.

Since when have court decisions not been ridiculous?


Thank you Jerry that is what I would have said myself, you just beat me to it.

Toby, I was merely elaborating on the OP's original situation. Do you not think that if a pro for example found out that an amature out there took a picture exactly like theirs and is now trying to sell it would let it go? No, they have a copyright on it and they don't want that person making money off of an idea that was originally theirs. That is the situation I was trying to state. Now if it is just me and I have a friend who sees my picture and decides to take one like it, I might be a little upset and feel that they stole it. But I also might be proud that they found my work that great that they wanted to copy it. However since my photo was copyrighted to me the instant I created it they would technically be violating that right, but that doesn't mean I am going to sue them for taking the same picture.
quote=jerryc41 quote=Toby That's the most ridicu... (show quote)


With all due respect, I will still hold my ground. For example using your logic the first photographer's click at a press conference, for example, means the others should go home because he now owns the scene.
If we have any lawers reading perhaps they will comment. Note it is important that they read the initial comments about the first photographer having copyright privileages over the scene.
Go to
Apr 13, 2012 10:13:37   #
Tea8 wrote:
Well if you did have that photo copyrighted then you could technically get them on copyright infringement, I believe. I mean lets say that you are profiting off of the sale of that picture and the said person is copying your photograph because it is something that they saw in a magazine. Now they want to sell their photograph and that could cause you to lose business off of your photograph.


That's the most ridicules thing I ever heard. You cannot copyright a scene such as this. They did not steal or copy your photo they created their own. Get over it.
Go to
Apr 13, 2012 10:01:19   #
Looks to me as though you can do it without too much trouble. First I would turn the ISO up to about 800 if you can go that high with out too much noise. Set aperature as wide as you can go but no more than f3.5 then a speed of no slower than 1/60. I am not sure if I would use the flash.
If you don't want to spend much money you could buy some cheap work lights with reflectors and aim at them but you will need to watch the white balance and hot spots and /or post correct. Shoot in RAW to give yourself the most help for post processing.
I would also move them away from the wall so as to blur the background somewhat.
Good luck, show us your results
Go to
Apr 9, 2012 10:33:13   #
njfisher wrote:
I have an old Nikon D70 (hey, I'm old too). I primarily use the following lenses, all Nikons: 55-200; 70-300; and 50 prime 1.8. I take LOTS of sporting events, particularly football, basketball and soccer. My nephews start college this fall. One plays soccer (goalkeeper) and the other plays football (wide receiver). Based on their positions, they both fly, dive and jump a lot. For the most part, their games will be in early afternoon. Sure beats the night games of high school!

My dilemma is what to do with my limited secret photo equipment fund. Should I buy a faster/newer camera body and continue with current glass? Should I shoot with the old body 'til she dies but buy a longer/faster lens? Looking at 70-200 f/2.8. Buy Nikon at twice the money or Tamron or Sigma?

Also, it should be noted the "coolness" factor is in play. The longer lens with the flower petal hood simply looks cool. I shoot with a monopod. I will have access to get as close to the fields as I want, a luxury I do not take for granted.

Suggestions?
I have an old Nikon D70 (hey, I'm old too). I pri... (show quote)

I shoot both sports. For daylight sports I would probably use the 70-300 because of the long range. You can basically cover the entire field if you locate mid field. I will mention,however, that the quality from a good 70-200 f2.8 may overide the value of being able to shoot the entire field.
I assume the hockey is indoors and, therefore , I would definately want a 70-200 f2.8.
Go to
Apr 5, 2012 11:02:44   #
rpavich wrote:
bobmcculloch wrote:

talk to a lawyer, I read somewhere that the cover is commercial use but not the inside , I would check and keep the name of the authority that gives you the info, Bob.


See this article:
http://www.bobatkins.com/photography/tutorials/photography_law_rights.html


What can you do with your photographs

Great article. Do you know how I can copy the article without all of the advertising and keep it on file?

You own the copyright to any image you have taken and you can use it for pretty much anything that doesn't come under the definition of "commercial purposes", which in general means advertising.

For example you can sell the images to a newspaper or magazine for use in editorial content. Editorial content is pretty much anything that's not advertising.

For commercial usage you need a signed release from anyone identifiable in the image, or in some cases for any identifiable private property.

You can generally sell your images as art without a release. Of course exactly what constitutes "commercial use" has to be defined by a court, but generally if the use can't be somehow construed as advertising in some form, you're OK.

An important case involving the right of a street photographer to take pictures of the public and sell them as art is Erno Nussenzweig vs. Philip-Lorca diCorcia

Misrepresenting someone in a picture may open you up to a lawsuit. So, for example, you can take a picture of someone walking on the street and put it in a magazine article on pedestrian traffic without getting a release and without risk of (losing) a law suit. However if you put the same picture in an article on drug dealers and there's an implication that the identifiable subject of the picture is a drug dealer (when in fact they aren't), then you are opening yourself up to potential legal action.

Note that some buildings may be trademarked and or copyrighted if they are of a unique design. The use of images of such buildings for commercial purposes requires a release from the property owner, but no release is required for editorial use in a magazine or newspaper as long as the images were taken from public property. In a now famous case, the court ruled that images of a trademarked building (in this case the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame) maybe sold on postcards and posters without a property release from the building's owners.

However permission is required to take and use images of copyrighted or trademarked buildings if they are not in public view and are shot from a location on private property.


Summary
With respect to the USA:

With a few notable exceptions detailed above, you can photograph anything you can see in public. That means you can legally photograph subjects such as people, buildings, bridges, trains, police officers etc. without asking or getting prior permission. On private property (e.g. in shopping malls, stores, theaters, hotels and sports arenas) you need the permission of the property owner to take photographs. While the act of photography itself in such areas isn't illegal, if asked to stop taking pictures and leave you must do so or risk prosecution for trespass.

You can generally take photographs of and in public areas of transit systems. For Example, Amtrak and the New York and Chicago Transit authorities specifically permit hand held non-commercial photography as long as it doesn't interfere with other passengers or the system operation.

Nobody has the right to require you to delete images you have taken and only the police can require that you show them the pictures in your camera - and even that requires a search warrant unless you give them permission.

Signed releases are only required for commercial (trade and advertising) use of photographs. Editorial, news and art usage generally requires no release from the subject, though some publication may requires them "just to be on the safe side".
quote=bobmcculloch br talk to a lawyer, I read s... (show quote)
Go to
Apr 3, 2012 23:23:33   #
Thanks for everyone's comments. You pretty much confirmed my approach.
Go to
Page: <<prev 1 ... 142 143 144 145 146 147 148 149 next>>
UglyHedgehog.com - Forum
Copyright 2011-2024 Ugly Hedgehog, Inc.