Is their a section on UHH dedicated to Affinity (or software processing) for very specific questions? I can’t find one so far.
Thanks
I had my D200 converted by Lifepixel. They indicated in advance that getting the grip back on (to the right of the lens as you look at the front of the camera) is problematic. Apparently this bit of rubber with the red swoosh is single use. I can "press it on" but the grip tends to come off near the CF card slot. It stays in place at the lens, however..
Nikon no longer sells replacements and folks on the internet feels the item is very dear ($40-80).
Any other solutions (such as a safe stickum, etc) or suggestions?
Thanks
Making a second trip to San Miguel.
Have shot the cathedral and local town square. Local streets. Doorways.
Sanctuary of Atotonilco, the “Sistine Chapel of Mexico”
Will have an ir converted camera.
Other suggestions, locations please. Will have a car
Thanks
Thanks for the answers, although my question was more or less "Does it make a difference when doing the capture"
Reading may websites and comments it appears the answer is yes as the metering can be off without correct WB being set in camera.
So when I get my IR camera back (being converted as we speak), that is what I will do
Thanks
The images are red as you say
I have reset the color balance in various raw processors. Usually about 1600-2000k it seems. Foliage is now green.
I can swap the red and blue channels.
I can edit thereafter ang get color images like others do on internet tutorials.
But, does setting the color balance in camera have any effect except that it is easier to view an image just taken that is not red?
Thanks
Help me to understand.
I'm breaking into Infrared capture
I shoot raw.
White Balance has to be adjusted in raw processing. I get that.
Many of the online instructional videos suggest setting a custom white balance in camera for IR capture.
Is this to make the image when viewed at time of capture more useful/recognizable/interpretable
or
is something else happening/occurring?
Thanks
Will look
Years ago someone gave me a film dental camera setup with flash and lens at end of a bellows. Exposure was controlled by the flash it seemed and so taking a photo outside was easy and flash froze critters' movements. Tripod not really needed. Very mobile. As bellows extended, flash went with it
It looks to me like the youtube setup in the link does similar except flash does auto move (but moot as lens is fixed also)
If you have an iPad or other tablet device you can use them as backup ( within their memoryj and see what you captured today.
I saw this on YouTube
https://youtu.be/PW-44IKD8l0
Might be fun and pretty cheap. I have a camera, a 50mm Nikon lenses and a flash. So I got most of what I need.
At 2:54 in the video he describes a Meike device to maintain auto shutter functionality.
However, there does not seem to be a similar device for Nikon.
Is this correct or all their alternatives
Thanks
I have a Nikon D200 and D300
I am trying to find a chart of Nikon lenses that are compatible with above (and hopefully newer bodies also). In some of the reviews (Ken Rockwell for example) there are sometimes explicit comments - sometimes not. The 10-20 mm Nikon is a total no go for example.
Interested in macro and the wider end of things
Is there a published list I can access?
Thanks
Yes I shoot RAW. Curiosity was the genesis of the question
If I shoot RAW
Use the wrong WB
Go to Post processing Software (PS, Affinity, Corel, ON1, etc, etc)
Change the WB to the appropriate setting
Is that exactly the same (within what I presume are small variations of different software packages) as having used the correct WB while shooting the photo?
Thanks
I have on1 with similar configuration but 16 g ram on desktop. Runs ok.
I have on1 with similar configuration but 16 g ram on desktop. Runs ok.
Use Adobe Bridge as the DAM to invoke Affinity or any other program.