These have a nice contemporary look, to an old-school photographer, they do look slightly "over-processed" but I like them.
But BW or softer could be great, too— just in a different store!
Nice! I like the variety of birds.
Nice! I like the way the ripples in the water frame the gator.
That last one is the bee's knees!
Low light makes no difference. Speed of the action does not matter (how fast grandkids move), but speed of the photos does (how quickly you want to take several photos in a row).
For taking shots very fast (several a second), you'll want the fastest card your camera can take advantage of (or that your budget will allow).
What make/model is your camera?
You should find info on the best card for your camera in the manual (or online).
You don't want a faster card than your camera can accommodate (a too-fast card type won't help and might not even work, also a too-big card may not work)
So if your camera only goes to HS speeds, a faster one won't help.
If your camera only goes up to 16GB cards, a 64GB or a 2TB card won't work (usually).
Card-name meanings here:
https://www.expertreviews.co.uk/storage/1404380/how-to-choose-an-sd-card-class-and-speed-ratings-explained
Nice! That would make a good stock photo if you want to sell it...
A traditional, real "spinning disk" hard drive is OK, SSDs (solid-state, non-spinning like flash drives) are not good for long-term. But Blue-ray disks are the best for longevity.
As with all things digital, 3 backups are recommended, with at least one offsite or in the cloud.
Assuming you did work on them, if you only want the edited photos, Export the photos in the collection and then delete the Library and re-import the exported collection pics if you want them in Lightroom.
If you want the unedited originals you'll need to delete the unwanted photos in the Library one-by-one
If you never edited the originals, then exporting from the collection should be the same as original if you keep the same format
We use both 27" Thunderbolt monitors and 5K iMacs at work (but not together, we use the Thunderbolt monitors for laptops).
Thunderbolt has max res of 2560 x 1440
iMac 5K has "looks like" 3200 x 1800
So iMac 5K will make things smaller on-screen (and fit more in window) at full resolution.
You can see a little more detail (maybe, but the details are so tiny it's hard to be sure).
5K seems a little darker, especially viewed off-center (from the side)—Thunderbolt seems to be more even viewed off-center, image doesn't darken as much when you move to the side.
But other than that they are pretty close—if you are not being hyper-critical they are very similar.
Wow great shots, love the clouds in the first one.
Sometimes all you have is a sow's ear.
I work for an Ad agency and our clients are non-profits who work in 3rd-world countries where Sony, Canons and Nikons are "unheard of" and the photos we get from the field are often tiny jpegs taken with an old feature phone (not even a smart phone) in poor and harsh lighting.
They are usually low resolution, very poorly exposed, low res and highly compressed.
We spend hours fixing them in Photoshop to use for high-quality print ads and no, we can't restore what is isn't there but we can draw/paint in what we hoped would be there. (left eye is a just dark shadow but we can replace it with the right eye etc.) It is more photo-illustration, not really pure photography.
The combo of JPEG to RAW and AI Gigapixel is saving us a lot of time, improving quality and is much better than just camera raw or Photoshop alone with noticeably better/sharper/fewer artifacts than even Topaz's previous plugins.
That is the sort of thing this is good for.