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Jan 2, 2021 11:56:51   #
controversy wrote:
The frequent discussions (arguments?) about shooting raw vs. jpg leave me confused. The following is about image processing ONLY and assumes the photographer is able to compose and set exposure to properly capture an image - both of which are skills unrelated to whether one shoots raw or jpg.

One side says shoot raw and then process offline in order to produce the best possible image - to your liking. Also, raw provides the greatest latitude for adjustments to correct exposure errors made when capturing the images. Ditto with being able to adjust for high dynamic range situations when no in-camera settings can produce a properly exposed image.

The other side says shoot jpg and just make sure you "get it right" when configuring your camera to capture the image. This seems to overlook those situations where light, physics, and mathematics make it impossible to capture a single properly exposed image. As you point out, they are both processed images.

Again, these contrasting comments leave me confused...

First, all camera sensors capture raw images and those raw images are processed into jpg, tif, etc - whatever format the individual photographer chooses (for in-camera shooters, whatever format the manufacturer chose to allow you to create).

In the traditional case of "raw shooters," the raw image processing is done offline using one of the various photo editing software products with a vast array of editing capabilities. Perhaps most importantly, editors offer the ability to adjust individual areas of an image without affecting the entire image and to repeatedly change those adjustments without altering the original image file.

In the case of "jpg shooters," that very same processing of the raw image occurs but it happens inside the camera based upon the particular image processing settings the photographer configured into the camera's menu options and how the manufacturer decided the controls would be applied. And, don't all in-camera options affect the entire image?

There's a third alternative that no one ever seems to talk about, the FREE raw photo editing software provided by the camera manufacturer: for Nikon, that's Capture NX-D; Canon has Canon Digital Photo Professional; and Sony has Imaging Edge, for example.

Each of these manufacturers editing software solutions allows one to capture/store raw images and then, later, apply any of the same internal settings that could have been used to produce a jpg image in-camera. These software editors use the same processing options, algorithms, and controls that were available in-camera. The benefit of shooting raw and then applying any of these equivalent in-camera options lets you select from any of those in-camera settings AFTER you have captured the image as a raw file. And, you can change your mind at any time and apply different "in-camera" controls. That means you can shoot raw and "get it right" even if you selected the wrong options and didn't "get it right" when capturing the image.

In sum: if you shoot raw and use the manufacturer's editing software, you can then later apply any of the same in-camera settings you choose - the same settings that were available in the camera to produce a jpg.

If you shoot jpg, well, you're pretty much done.
The frequent discussions (arguments?) about shooti... (show quote)


I don't see why you are confused. You seem to have written a pretty balanced view of the RAW vs JPEG subject.

If I just want to record what is 'there' or 'what the eye sees' I shoot JPEG and the camera will 'get it right'. If I want to create what my mind sees, or what I want it to see, I shoot RAW.

JPEG is for recording an image, RAW is for creating an image. As you point out, they are both processed images.
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Jan 2, 2021 11:48:44   #
katspangle wrote:
The power in the eyes of a person or animal draws you into a photograph. The stronger the eyes are, the more you will draw attention of the viewer. I do not photograph people that much but do like to emphasis eyes in my non-human subjects. I have done some reading on the subject and have a few ideas on emphasizing the eyes of a subject to create interest and emotion in a picture.
-Focus on the eyes, make sure they are in sharp focus
-Line of sight: use the eyes of a subject to point out something else in the picture or draw your eye outside the frame
-Ask the subject to incline their head so their eyes are on a diagonal
-Catchlights: these are the flickers of light or reflections in the eyes that bring it to life

I am looking forward to your photographs emphasizing eyes. Have fun and as always thanks for participating.
The power in the eyes of a person or animal draws ... (show quote)


AAAAH!


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Jan 2, 2021 11:42:41   #
OP here. Thanks for the responses and advice. I am trying to decide whether to go the round-screw on or square / holder route.
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Jan 1, 2021 12:15:55   #
Are all 100mm x 100mm filters interchangeable between brands of holders? e.g. Can Cokin or NiSi filters be used in Lee holders or visa versa? Are glass and resin filters typically the same thickness?
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Dec 31, 2020 21:35:21   #
goldenyears wrote:
Our small retirement center amateur photo club has a private website which I created to be able to continue meeting during the pandemic to look at and discuss the photos via Zoom. The main "job" of the club is to show photos on a TV in a lounge playing in a continuous slideshow. The knowledge and abilities of the members vary widely. They use DSLRs, cell phones, point-and-shoots, and scan film prints. Some do not have photo editing software, or don't know how to make full use of what they do have.

From time to time a member wants to know why the colors of their photos look a little different than they observed when shooting the scene. I know it is not uncommon that color photos look different, and that there are many reasons why. But it gets the club too deep in the weeds when more experienced members try to explain it.

Can anyone recommend a website or a book that talks about the color issue in very simple terms for our non-technical amateur photographers? More along the lines of why this happens, rather than how to deal with it. From those resources I will prepare a introductory page for the website to begin an educational series dealing with that issue.
Our small retirement center amateur photo club has... (show quote)


Blame it on their memory.
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Dec 31, 2020 21:27:24   #
Get the 82mm filters and a 77mm to 82mm step-up adapter ring. You may want to get an extra 82mm lens cover for when you are using the filters on the 77mm lenses.
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Dec 29, 2020 10:15:44   #
I think the pre-sale discount and simultaneous launch of 30,000 pre-sold copies of AI was a big mistake. The support group were bound to be overwhelmed after a flood of releases like that. That might sound good for creating Apple type product launch hype. Unfortunately, all the hype has been negative for what is actually a pretty good product.
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Dec 28, 2020 15:28:56   #
Bogin Bob wrote:
Very nice - do you use any other software? Not on these but in the past?


I have been using Adobe Camera Raw for adjustments.
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Dec 28, 2020 14:21:22   #
pdsilen wrote:
When I have been shooting real estate interiors, I've been depending on PS to provide me with strait 90 degree lines. Now, I'm thinking about investing in one or two tilt shift lenses. I've looked on KEH and other photo dealer's web sites. I see all different specs. Most of the rooms I shoot are 10' x 10', 10' x 12', and an occasional 12' x 16' As I look at the different lenses, I see a variety of specifications and I don't know one from the other. I'm open to feed back.


If you have a mirrorless camera, Fotasy make a several shift and tilt/shift adapters for around $100. I have one that I use with a 24mm legacy Olympus lens that I got for short money and it works fine on my Sonys. Fotasy also have tilt/shift adaptors for medium format lenses to e -mount and some M4/3 mounts which would increase the available image circle.
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Dec 28, 2020 13:58:02   #
CHG_CANON wrote:
As we look back and consider 2020, how did your photography change? We probably all made less trips. Did you visit / revisit new subjects closer to home? Did you change your camera bodies or focal lengths? What changes will you make for 2021?

What is a resolution?
A firm decision to do or not to do something.

Will you learn to better use your current equipment?

Will you learn your processing software?

Will you organize your legacy images?

Will you organize your new images?

Will you sell your unused and outdated equipment?

Will you ask for help?

Will you answer a request for help?

Will you use selective focus with an off-center AF point placed specifically on the subject?

Will you investigate higher ISOs?

Will you use your flash?

Will you use your tripod?

Will you try Back Button Focus?

Will you change to mirroless?

Will you create an image over the next 365 days that achieves your resolution?
As we look back and consider 2020, how did your ph... (show quote)


I will adopt the first five. Doing pretty good already with the rest of them.
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Dec 28, 2020 13:55:26   #
jerryc41 wrote:
Even back then it was the same.

I once went to a lecture on bats, and the speaker said that female bats like a warmer house. They will either stay in the upper part, or they will all move out and live in a house of their own.


My wife and I are the opposite. I am the one who is always cold - she is a walking furnace.
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Dec 28, 2020 13:52:28   #
Powergroove75 wrote:
Shooting with a Canon EOS 90D with Sigma 18-35 1.8 ART series glass.

2 minute exposure | ISO 100 | F16

Edited in lightroom. 12-26-20 Coeur d'Alene, ID

Still a learning curve but this is one came out awesome!


Beautiful image - one of the best I have seen here on UHH for awhile. Worth downloading. If you are planning on printing an enlargement for hanging I would suggest you try a bit of local sharpening on the first and second pairs of pilings.
Congratulations.
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Dec 28, 2020 13:46:06   #
Xpatch wrote:
Exposure compensation involved the three legs of the triangle, ss, iso,f stop. It depends on your settings ie aperture priority etc. If you lock or set the f stop the iso or ss can be changed. Ive set iso and wonder what algorithm the camera uses to choose SS or Aperture to change exposure. If you lock two only one can
Be changed in the eco comp. I use soft button settings for Iso, ss, f stop on my 100v.


On my Sony, if I adjust EC down while in Aperture mode, it will adjust the SS down until it gets to a minimum safe handhold speed (eg 1/100) and then it will shift to adjusting ISO.
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Dec 28, 2020 13:36:11   #
rcarol wrote:
I have both Luminar 4 and Luminar AI. I am disappointed in AI in that the ads show dramatic results by taking a bland image and turning it into a dramatic image with a single keystroke. My experience with the provided presets is that the results are subtle changes rather than dramatic changes as seen in the advertisements. Perhaps these changes are only available with presets available at an additional cost. But at this point, I'm disappointed with AI and tend to continue to use Luminar 4.


Here are a couple of bland images that I made some pretty dramatic changes too in a couple of minutes with AI. I have no previous experience with any of the Luminar versions. I was able to do these after a couple of minutes of playing around with it. Admittedly it took more than 1 keystroke, but still only a couple of minutes on each.

I am pleased with the results I have been able to achieve with my limited PP experience, but I do feel a certain sense of 'cheating'.


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Dec 28, 2020 09:16:08   #
Magnificent creatures. We see one in the woods behind our house occasionally.
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