Gene51 wrote:
You should be shooting just raw, since the exposure for raw will be different than for jpeg. With raw you can underexpose the snow, and still get decent information in the darker areas, even if they are a little bit noisy. At least you can deal with the noise. However, if you overexpose your highlights, no amount of post processing will recover them.
You can set whatever white balance you want in raw, since it is not assigned until you process the image, and it does not affect the capture. All you are setting is a metadata value, not the actual white balance. Besides, areas in sunlight will have a vastly different white balance than areas in shade, if you set WB for the brighter sunlit areas or for daylight, your shadows will be very blue.
One way to get a reasonable exposure is to use an incident meter, which will work as long as your EV range in the image is within the dynamic range of your camera. If you are shooting a scene with 16EV or more, which is common with sunny snow days, you will likely lose some of your highlights.
You will get a better exposure, one that does not sacrifice the highlights - ever - if you use your camera's spotmeter and measure the brightest area in the scene in which you wish to retain detail - and add anywhere from 1 to 1.5 stops MORE exposure to that reading. Exactly how much can vary from camera to camera, and the ISO will also impact this a bit, as you will lose dynamic range as you increase your exposure and adding 1.5 stops could result in lost highlights.
Unless you are using a Sekonic 758 where you can profile your camera's dynamic range, the highlight based exposure determination will result in a better exposure. Also, you may not always be able to measure the light with an incident meter, particularly if your subject is out on an ice floe, and you are under the shade of a tree at the shore - as was the case in these shots which were done with the highlight method. I do have an incident meter in my bag, but find it pretty useless in these situations.
The nice thing is, that if your lighting doesn't change, whichever means you use to arrive at a good exposure will not require taking multiple readings.
In the simplest of forms, this is the underlying basis for Ansel Adams' Zone System, which actually worked very nicely for him and other photographers that subscribe to it.
You should be shooting just raw, since the exposur... (
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Nice shots.