I spent a bit of time on Lr vs. LRCC. Yes, in LR one can now simply select a local or a cloud stored photo and edit it. Much like any other editing program, I assume. But, what I do not see a way to do is to create an album that is not going to be cloud based, even if the album's photos are on a local drive. And, I see no way to create albums that are stored locally only. This sort of makes sense in that there has to be something (as in a catalog) that keeps all that info in a nice bundle and allows LR to use it. What Adobe appears to have done is to only allow albums that are cloud based for a reason...subscriptions to their exclusive cloud services. And, I cannot see a way to get photos that were in an album and move the photos to a local drive. If a photo is in an album, it is in the cloud....and it has to be Adobe's cloud. Remember, many companies make more on their cloud activities than they do on other products.

If I involve LRCC, I can edit in LR mobile on my iPhone when I am traveling, create an album which is in the cloud, go to my desktop, open LRCC which also shows albums, move the photos (always in LR) to a folder of my choosing, and they are in my catalog with all edits! A very cool way to do business.

The other thing I do not see in LR that LRCC has is facial recognition. Perhaps it is there, but I can't find it. Although a pain to do sometimes, it has come in handy for me in a lot of ways.

For now, I'll stick to LRCC until these bugs are figured out or I get more educated on LR. If Adobe could jigger its cloud to act like Dropbox I'd be in...but not now.

Why not three or perhaps add a red filter with a dehaze filter?

Bruce Lee was quoted as saying the key to brilliance is simplicity. True in martial arts and true in most things. Need to cut down on reflections? Use a polarizer. Need to reduce light to get a longer shutter speed, use an ND filter. Don’t fumble around with this unless it is some sort of experiment for experiment's sake.
Otherwise. Simplify and go make some photos.

Im messing around with LR now..the one thing I don't see is collections. I understand, and use, albums on the cloud, but collections is a valuable tool for me. So, from my limited time with this, having a catalog may still be important. The collection portfolio has to be stored somewhere. But absent that, if you don't use collections, or rely on the cloud then it just may make sense. What I also see is that someone could use another cloud storage (such as dropbox) to store and edit local photos.

Still learning

Mike Koslowski, a very good on line trainer, says he’s only going to use the cloudy version from here on out. I’m going do a dive into this and see.

It is totally possible to use an iPad (or iPhone or probably any smart phone) by using the LR mobile, creating albums (which is oddly about the same thing as collections on LRCC on your desk top), uploading photos from your regular camera to that album using a dongle device, editing the photo on the iPad which places it in the "cloud". You can then turn on your connected desktop when you get home, and retrieve that album, download those photos and your edits just as if they occurred in LRCC, and they will be resident where ever you keep all your other photos.

I am working on a lesson plan for my photo club on doing exactly this...it worked like a charm for me on my last trip...i got home, brought everything into my LRCC, via the cloud, and most of the edits were done-ish. Of course, on a large screen, you get better edits, but for many of the photos, there was nothing to do.

The thing about Apple is that they do everything in their power to make you reliant on their ecosystem, including photos. So you have to be careful not to upload from your SD card into iPhotos...you can do it into the LR mobile.
I am sorry i don't have a cheat sheet on this yet.

Why use an iPad? There are some cool editing programs, such as snapseed and a few others that you can use as well as Adobe product. But, now that masking is now avail on the LR mobile, it is a very powerful editing tool. if you are using the cloud then you could go back and forth between your iPhone and an iPad for edits on the same album...say you are out for the day and get some down time and only have your phone. It is an option.

Suffice to say, it is very doable.

Nice of you to say.

If there's a ban on photos I dont take them. I just buy a post card. There were no signs prohibiting photography there this time. I stood next to docents. Maybe rules changed.

I just took them. There were hundred of folks taking photos. Maybe cuz I didn’t have a big camera? Not sure. But there was a lot of photo takin going on.

The image was purposely underexposed due to the lighting on the statue. I attached a copy of what it looked like SOOC. I use Olympus micro 43 gear with, in this case, the Oly Pro 8-25 f4 lens. Because micro 43 is not so good in low light, I often have to either use higher ISOs and denoise later or, as mentioned hand hold with a slower SS to make it all work. I know each of us has our own style, and I tend to like darker shots to isolate. But to each his own.

It is possible to do ok with other smaller cameras as well. Here is one taken of The David with the very small Sony...jury is still out on it, but some pics came out and some did not. As noted, I often like people in the shots to give a better sense of what was taking place...see attached.

For the op, as noted by others, practice and see how he likes the outcome. I also cannot over emphasize the need to be able to edit the photos...the masking of LR Classic has helped me a lot in this regard. I suppose other programs do similar. it only takes a few clicks.

To me the big issue is what is the purpose of the photo? If it is for a contest, then that is one thing, but if it is a memory book, like we make, I have more leeway. The combination of photos from iPhones, regular cameras, and even a postcard helps me put the book together for our memories (and for our kids to toss when we're no longer here.) I see people, very often, using very high end gear who are oblivious to what that gear does...a 100-400 ff lens with a small flash in a church, etc...simply won't work out well. Flashes at large venues...won't work. Guys carrying tripods into places where they simply cannot set up, etc. So, my recommendation is to take one lens, maybe two, keep it simple, practice a bit, also deploy the iPhone or Samsung, have fun and forget the rest.

We all find what we like

SOOC


Very small sensor on Sony....good enough for a photo book.

When I mentioned the WYSIWYG of the view finder and using exposures compensation this is what I was talking about. Maybe not your preference but you can really play with exposure. I like the ability isolate some things using shadows. Play with it and see. Maybe you like more exposure.

Agreed.

Amazing photography across so many subjects. In my opinion, much prefer this kind of photography to the landscapes of Adams.

I travel quite a bit, and in fact, recently returned from Italy. IMO, f4 will be sufficient in nearly all cases. As noted by others, you will be on a tour. So you do not have a lot of time to change lenses, set up tripods, wait for people to get out of the way, wait for the right moment, snipe the shot when the one perfect lady with the red umbrella walks into the shot. You will be shooting on the move and keeping up, generally, with the group. So, changing lenses inside a cathedral simply will be a hassle. You can do it but why do it?

I shoot micro 43 or even a smaller Sony RX100 so my options are different. (And why I think m43 is a better option for travel, but that gets into a cat fight over gear). But, I rarely shoot anything longer than 70mm unless there are critters involved. Most things will be rather close up or vast, so wide seems to be better. Inside, you should be able to hand hold much longer than what some have suggested with decent IBIS. Practice on getting down to at least a half second ss. That is, after all, why you have an expensive camera with image stabilization. Practice proper holding of a camera. I often use a pole, over a bench or fixed object to steady my shot if I have a longer SS. Much like one would do with a pistol or rifle.

For the life of me I have no idea why people do not want people in their images. In fact, using a longer SS you can have people in your images, intentionally, and have them blurry with the statue or what ever, sharp. It makes for a more interesting photo. And it takes a bit of skill to get this image. If all you want is some shot of a statue all by its lonesome, buy a post card. I am not kidding. Do not waste time just buy the card.

You can take the shorter primes, but in my experience, by the time I get to all that, the game has changed, group moved on, and I need my trusty zoom back on.

As others noted, you can fix noise, but not blur. Makes sense. I will also say, gasp, that a phone makes for a very nice back up camera and in some cases a primary camera. In a place that is tight but you want a panorama? I just use my phone. I also always take a shot or two with my phone simply for the gps coordinates.

Go practice somewhere....a museum and see how it goes.

If I am busy looking at stuff, I often shoot in P mode. I almost always shoot in A mode but what ever works. I also set up memorized settings for shots that are obviously going to take place...such as the inside of a church...you get inside, its kinda dark, you know you want to be wide open at f4, maybe auto ISO and a shutter speed of 1/20, since you went and practiced!

Someone mentioned bracketing...great idea. Have that readily available...makes life a lot easier. I also live and die by my exposure compensation and the wysiwyg of the view finder. Because I know I can handhold quite a long time, I am not too concerned about SS...it get what I want in the the view finder, and take the shot.

Skip the big flashes...wont be allowed in most places. (A shout out to the small Sony...the little flash helped me on a few shots on hikes, etc where faces were dark compared to background....but I digress.)

In the end, remember why you're taking photos. We all get caught up on making some sort of art, but really, we're trying to capture memories AND take as good a photos as we reasonably can. Want to have less anxiety about the photography part of all of this? Take the camera, a few batteries, the short zoom and leave the rest behind.

Amateur photog here.

As far as handling, I favor my Oly OMD Em1 Mark 2 over the Mark 3. Mostly because the 2 has all the buttons near where the right thumb rests. The 3 idiotically has the menu button on the left side of the back of the camera, forcing a two handed manipulation. It was downright odd that that they did that. Also, my 3 went on the fritz while traveling...in a far away land. Thankfully I could fiddle with it and make it work, mostly. Sent it in and got it repaired, but of course, it was the worst possible time for it to happen. I had a back up plan, but still....

But, for me, more importantly, I prefer the Pro lenses, the 12-100 and now the 8-25 which are spectacular. I'm torn over which lens I like better. I can carry two lenses which cover from 16 to 200 mm (ff equivalent) in a very compact bag.

Both cameras, coupled with the pro lenses provide me with the ability to hand-hold with shutter speeds up to 1 second and have very sharp images. Some people can hold for longer! And both, when married up with a pro lens are a pretty weather tight rig...took one on Maid of the Mist at Niagara and never had a problem. I do not even carry rain protection for my cameras.

I had a lot of Canon gear, but sold it to the Navy. They're making anchors out of it.

Pretty simple...make a list of your gear, then go to ebay and find out if that item has been sold and at what price. Then you post it on this forum.

Asking a forum like this is not a good strategy.
If you can post on this forum, you can easily look at ebay.

Or if you are overwhelmed then simply contact the reputable used camera sales companies and see what they will offer you....

keh and mpb. I think adorama also buys used gear.