Posts for: wolfman
Jul 8, 2016 12:53:32 #
The Sigma TC-1401 (1.4x) & the Sigma 150-600 Sport.
Jul 8, 2016 08:01:48 #
Arkat wrote:
Hello, I am new to Ugly Hedgehog so this is my fir... (show quote)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dMKf1HDaLBo
Jul 6, 2016 17:40:49 #
billnikon wrote:
I have a Nikon 200-500 and I did send it in for a ... (show quote)
Well, I guess I don't have to worry about that. I don't own a D500, and the Sigma works perfectly on my D810. How about that!
Jul 6, 2016 17:27:00 #
cjc2 wrote:
And the KEY point here is they had to RECALL them. The Sigma merely has to be updated, over the web, just like the firmware in a modern camera! Oh well.
Yep, took me all of 5 min., can't beat that!
Jul 6, 2016 13:51:13 #
Howard5252 wrote:
It tells me that Nikon is smart. Their lenses work where third party lenses may not. It tells me that it might be their way of encouraging people to buy Nikon lenses.
Not always the case. Nikon had to recall some 200-500's for a firmware update.
Jul 6, 2016 13:31:18 #
47greyfox wrote:
I checked this morning. Firmware version 1.02 is also applicable to the Contemporary.
That's old, the latest firmware version is 1.04
Jul 3, 2016 14:56:40 #
ptcanon3ti wrote:
I don't understand what the big deal is with attaching a screw on ND filter to a lens. Square filter systems require screwing an adaptor on the the lens, then you have to attach the holder to the adaptor, then you have to insert the filter into the holder. Thats 3 times the chances for error compared to a simple screw on filter. I don't get it.
The only reason I'm considering using a square filter system is the use of graduated ND filters. Thats it.
The only reason I'm considering using a square filter system is the use of graduated ND filters. Thats it.
It's not really a big deal using an ND screw on filter, if your just going to take one image and be done. If you want to recompose the image, and have to refocus, then it's a big deal, as you have to remove the filter. Your not going to focus thru a 10 stop ND, or even see thru it.
Also, with the square filter systems, it's very easy to stack filters, such as an ND with a polarizing filter and a graduated filter.
Jul 3, 2016 11:46:17 #
kymarto wrote:
Why would one want to use square filters in plastic which are huge and fragile when one can buy screw-on filters that are multicoated and much more convenient?
I have a screw on ND filter and IMO a P.I.T.A. to use. I went to the Lee system and never looked back.
Jun 29, 2016 14:02:01 #
dsiner wrote:
If you don't have/understand the whole external light meter thing, anyone got any ideas on how to determine how dark of a graduated ND filter to use? Is it just simply using live view and testing the results?
Here's a good video using Lee filters.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3IooM7FB44c
Jun 29, 2016 11:42:30 #
MtnMan wrote:
There will be a delay with continuous if you are using flash. The flash needs to recharge.
Try turning the flash off and using auto ISO. It works fine with M mode.
I don't agree with using release priority. Who wants out of focus images? If you think focusing is causing your delay (which I consider unlikely) then turn off autofocus and focus manually. But that takes time too and unless you are using higher f-stop DOF might be problematiic.
Try turning the flash off and using auto ISO. It works fine with M mode.
I don't agree with using release priority. Who wants out of focus images? If you think focusing is causing your delay (which I consider unlikely) then turn off autofocus and focus manually. But that takes time too and unless you are using higher f-stop DOF might be problematiic.
I always use release priority, especially when shooting wildlife. The camera does not necessarily have to "lock" the primary AF point in order to get a sharp image. As long as a primary AF point was selected, even though not locked, you should be good. With fast moving subjects, and the camera set to focus priority, you may miss a lot of shots. I have many wildlife photos where the primary AF point was selected, not locked, and still achieved sharp images. If I would have been set to focus priority, those shots would have been lost.
Jun 28, 2016 18:51:41 #
JohnSwanda wrote:
If you decide to stick with the OEM ink, the best prices I've found are at atlex.com.
Actually, B&H is cheaper for the 8 pack.
Jun 23, 2016 22:53:54 #
Jun 23, 2016 20:04:44 #
camerapapi wrote:
This is my humble take on this. Clean a lens only ... (show quote)
Not really a good idea to use your breath to clean a lens.
http://nikonrumors.com/2012/12/07/nikon-support-do-not-breathe-on-your-lens-to-clean-it-your-breath-contains-harmful-acids-that-could-damage-the-lens-coating.aspx/
Jun 15, 2016 20:01:54 #
CaptainC wrote:
The proper TC paired with a high-quality lens will be fine. I use both a 1.4 and a 1.7 with my Nikon 70-200 and would defy anyone to tell the difference between a TC and non TC image on a 16x20 print. The older 2x OTOH, is a bit soft.
Jun 15, 2016 12:28:24 #
Carl D wrote:
I respectfully disagree, all tc's degrade the image compared to a native lens. One is better off saving up the money and buying a good lens. Any time you add more glass to the lens you already have, the image becomes worse. Case in point: take several pieces of window glass and keep stacking one in front of the other, the image gets worse and distorted. Granted, window glass is nowhere near the quality of lens optics but the results are the same, just to a lesser degree.
Well, as imagemeister stated, it depends on the lens and TC combination being used. I'm using the Sigma TC-1401 with the Sigma 150-600 Sport and have been getting excellent results. This particular TC was designed specifically to mate with this lens, so image quality is quite excellent.
