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Mar 10, 2020 19:50:36   #
rmalarz wrote:
Nice. However, the clouds are a bit blown out.
--Bob


Now the clouds are not so blown out ............

Thanks for the critique


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Mar 10, 2020 18:18:38   #
bobmcculloch wrote:


Thank You
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Mar 10, 2020 17:39:54   #
Tracks


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Mar 10, 2020 15:39:12   #
Screamin Scott wrote:
Nothing attached
Now its showing....

ok
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Mar 10, 2020 15:37:11   #
OK, here is the JPG converted with Canon DPP


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Mar 10, 2020 15:32:11   #
CHG_CANON wrote:
Use Canon DPP to 'Convert and Save' a JPEG conversion. Adobe strips the EOS data, you have no way to stop this Adobe action other than to use the Canon software instead. The EOS data will only emphasize / confirm the analysis above regarding suggestions of using a different exposure mode and shooting / focusing technique.


ok thanks
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Mar 10, 2020 15:25:54   #
CHG_CANON wrote:
Alas, the posted version is not the original file from the camera where we would be able to see the details of the EOS body and EF-S lens from the EXIF data. Can you post the original file rather than this Photoshop version?

Without the EXIF details, we can only assume the lens was focused on the woman in the center backrow. The image is so detailed, we can see the individual hairs on her face and inside her nose. We can see the individual facial hair of the woman next to her in glasses / Tigers logo and the partial head of the person obscured in the center of the frame. The "where" of this combo where the camera is focused is insanely sharp and detailed.

The location of the AF and the depth of field at f/5.6 are incorrect as needed to capture this entire group at the same level of sharp focus. My experience is to always focus on the nearest eye of the person nearest the camera, being the woman in light blue and glasses on our left of the image. Or maybe in this group, maybe the eyes of the child in the foreground. Still, f/5.6 is too wide to cover the entire group and 1/60 is likely too slow to reliable freeze the motion of this small group.

I mean "focus" via setting a specific AF point (or zone / group of AF points) to the specific location of focus. This is completely different from "focus and recompose". For event photography, this takes practice and skill and preparation. You won't get a good candid response if the subjects are sitting there waiting for you to configure the camera and focus. For this group, you need to look at their arrangement, decide the AF location and the exposure settings needed to capture them, and prepare the camera. Then raise, enable the AF and shoot / "cheers" all in one smooth and quick motion.

Program Auto lets the camera make an initial decision. Sometimes, the camera needs the 'help' of being told where to focus and it will determine a smaller aperture is needed for the composition. Otherwise, you have to tell the camera what to do, adjusting the Program-determined parameters or using another shooting mode. Manually setting the AF point to the child or the woman with glasses on the left is the primary change, then adjusting to probably f/9 would give the result you're likely looking for in this image, preferably also at 1/100 to assure the subject's small movements are frozen.

Finally, in your processing workflow, create your JPEGs in the sRGB colorspace, another change that will improve the shared / posted results.
Alas, the posted version is not the original file ... (show quote)


The original file is a 30M RAW. Way to big to send. How do I get around this and keep the original data?
I used Camera Raw to make the JPG. I changed nothing.
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Mar 10, 2020 12:27:52   #
Linda From Maine wrote:
In P mode at a party...were you using flash? If not, could be motion blur from slow shutter speed. Post a photo or continue to receive guesses as answers.

Before clicking the attach button, check the box labeled "store original."


Yes, Flash
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Mar 10, 2020 12:25:52   #
Screamin Scott wrote:
Got a sample pic with the EXIF info? Offhand I suspect it may be that the lens was wide open and that you were fairly close to them. The DOF wide open can be an issue... See this tool and input the values to know if it's a DOF issue...

http://www.dofmaster.com/doftable.html


Here is a sample


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Mar 10, 2020 12:05:19   #
I am using a Canon 80D with 60mm 2.8 lens. Camera is in P mode with Flash. I have the focus set to use the center 9 focus points. Went to a party and took photos. Had a 3 people standing together and I took the photo. The center photo is sharp and is the right person, however the left person is out of focus. Now I am thinking this is a screwy lens but this phenomenon does not always happen. Sometimes it the other way around. I took a group shot of 6 people. Some are in sharp and in focus and some are not. I took 3 shots. The focus is different on all 3 photos with not all being in focus at once. I tried using all 45 focus points and letting the camera decide which was not a whole lot better. However I can shot center focus with a single person and get a great shot. Obviously I do not understand how to control focus.

What am I doing wrong.
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Mar 3, 2020 17:23:54   #
I have owned Sigma lens. They cost me a fraction of a Nikon lens and I was perfectly satisfied with the sharpness and clarity. I have friends who pay the enormous Nikon price and have tried their Nikon lens. Sometimes the Nikon tended to focus faster but as far as producing a better image over my Sigma .... I do not see it. I can say I have never had a bad Sigma lens.
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Mar 2, 2020 20:31:57   #
Retired CPO wrote:
Are they selling it at that price or offering it at that price?


What is the difference? The advertised price is the selling price unless there is a special discount in effect.
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Mar 2, 2020 14:47:32   #
MT Shooter wrote:
The Sigma is an exceptional lens that I have used for 7 years without fail. I would not even consider spending 3 times more for the Nikon!


Maybe not you but there are people who will pay the outrageous price or they would not be selling as such.
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Mar 2, 2020 10:56:57   #
With Nikon, I would guess probably because they can and people will pay it ...........
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Mar 2, 2020 09:49:26   #
via the lens wrote:
Hi. I've used LR for about 10 years now. I've taught it at a local college as well as on a one-to-one basis and I have an LR website, viathelens.net. I recommend that you first go to the Adobe website and read portions of the online Help manual, in particular any part having to do with the Library Module. Do this prior to using the software. The Library Module is the heart of the software and learning it will help you to avoid problems and to use the software effectively. Know that LR does not store your images, you determine where they are stored and how they are organized. Second, once you link a folder to LR, you do this through the Import dialog, you must not change anything in that folder outside of the software as this will break the link. A third important thing is to read all of the boxes and settings in the software when you are importing, this is an area where people have problems. Do read up on the Library Module at Adobe. I like the Martin Evening book on LR, he knew the people who were involved in designing the software. The book is available as a download, too. To learn open a Catalog and use it as a practice catalog, using perhaps 10 or so images to work with. When you are done with it, delete the Catalog, this will not affect your images, and when ready open a new Catalog for your long-term use.
Hi. I've used LR for about 10 years now. I've ta... (show quote)


It appears after spending time with Lightroom and playing with the features, this is just what I wanted. Can assign keywords also. The develop module seems to be just as good as Adobe Bridge I have been using. Took some time to import 13000+ images but once they are imported Lightroom does not seem to have any trouble.
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