If I understand you correctly you're implying that JPEGs never need post processing to look their best and RAW files always need post processing. If that's what your saying its inaccurate. If post processing is required for a RAW file chances are the JPEG could use it as well. Adjustments to RAW give significantly better results than adjustments to JPEG. As an example, its amazing how much detail lost in shadow areas can be recovered from RAW files in post processing. You may not miss the extra detail in you jpegs simply because you don't know its there. Just about the only thing you can't adjust is focus.

I'm a bit confused as to your meaning with regard to RAW in this post. Can you clarify? If I was shooting sports I would likely shoot in JPEG most of the time. Results with JPEG files SOOC can be impressive if you have the settings right. However, since I mostly shoot landscapes, speed and long bursts are not as important to me so I generally shoot RAW for the flexibility. Unlike JPEG, RAW is a digital negative and gives me complete control over the image in post. Just about the only thing not controllable with RAW is the focus of the original image. People should shoot in whichever format meets their needs, which for me is RAW.

I sure hope they change their stance. I currently use Lightroom 4 as a front end and PS Elements 11 as a back end when I need it. The two together cost me around $150 to own. I sure wouldn't spend $50 every month to accomplish the same thing.

Please see my note just above. Its a different button on the camera back of more advanced EOS cameras. On Rebel line the "*" button can be configured for that purpose

On more advanced Canon bodies there is a separate AF-On button on the back of the body which can be be configured in C.Fn IV, Operation/Others. It can be used to separate auto focus from metering, among other things. It's especially useful for those with lenses that have FTMF (full time manual focus) and like to go back and forth between manual and AF without the need for constantly switching that feature off and on using the lens switch. It can also be set on the lcd screen use the "Q" button and changing the "custom controls" feature. I'm not sure if all the Rebels can be modified to do this using the "Q" button.

This is generally referred to as back button focusing, which others have also described. I use it all the time since with some of my lenses I use manual focus a lot. Its also useful for recomposing. When set up my camera, the 60D, the shutter button only controls metering rather than metering and AF. The same feature is available on your body, but requires setting up the "*" button on the back of your camera for that purpose.

The reason your editing software indicates 70mm is because that is the focal length you use to capture it. Focal length does not change because the lens is on a camera with a crop sensor. What changes on a crop body is the size of the image circle, which is smaller than on a full frame. The angle of view on a crop at 70 mm will give you a result that LOOKS similar to a photo taken at 105mm on a full frame body, but the focal length has not changed. You software is reporting the focal length correctly.

While this is may not be a great analogy, think about manually cropping an image on your computer. The result when viewed at the same size will look like you're much closer but you haven't altered the focal length.

People focus way too much on the crop factor. Unless you are going back and forth between full frame and crop sensor bodies a lot, you can generally ignore it. The important thing to take away is that you took the picture at 70mm not 105mm.