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Posts for: crazydaddio
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Jul 15, 2018 19:22:04   #
My first attempt at using my new Hoya Variable ND Filter. Had to wedge the camera in a rock as i didnt want to spend too much time in my spot in case a rogue wave came in. 13sec shutter. This was edited as a jpeg on LR on my mobile phone. Looking forward to getting it onto my laptop. Missed the composition by not having the island have some water around it to the right side. The rock cleft i used to pin the camera was not as flexible as a tripod :-)


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Jul 13, 2018 07:12:50   #
E.L.. Shapiro wrote:
Quick and dirty i-phone edits.


Sign edit is spot on...
Good capture from the OP ...
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Jul 4, 2018 19:02:41   #
docphoto wrote:
My first visit to Krakow has been very interesting and challenging photographically. Initially, it was cloudy and rainy the first few days but now it's sunny and the streets are lined with many different "faces." I tried to capture the essence of the culture by photographing their faces as they play or walk the street. In my opinion, black & white photography captures the intensity and meaning of the photograph. Please download for best results. I welcome your comments. (By the way, these were shot with either the NIKON D5 or D850, NIKKOR 70-200mm 2.8 AF-S or the NIKKOR 14-24mm 4.0. ISO varied btw 200-400)
My first visit to Krakow has been very interesting... (show quote)


These are good...
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Jun 30, 2018 17:55:21   #
gator81 wrote:
I had not thought to turn auto focus off after focusing on her eyes, I may try that.

I am also considering changing the setting to turn off being able to touch the screen to take a picture, because I had catch'ed myself touching the screen when pressing the shutter to start the timer and I think it has been changing the focus point. I would think that using zone and in auto it would correct itself but now I am starting to wonder.
I have been testing in almost all the settings on the camera, auto to manual and getting close results.

still kinda curious as to why my wife and I look like a composite on this photo? is it because we are a little out of focus and the furthest point is in focus?

thanks for all the suggestions so far it is giving me more to experiment with and make me better :)
I had not thought to turn auto focus off after foc... (show quote)


You look like a composite since you were darker than the background AND there is no rim lighting to seperate you from the background.
Similar effect as using on-camera flash (only in reverse...subject is lighter than background but no side/back lighting to give you some dimensionality.....

Looks like you were in the shade....which is OK since you avoid the "Monster eyes" from overhead bright sun but the negative is you will get the "poster" look.
(I will take the poster look over the monster eyes if I have a choice)

To fix both, requires off camera HSS flash with triggers...OR...(less expensively and without 18 hrs of youtube work) ....try to find a spot that reflects light onto your side or back that will give you a "rim light" around your hair/body...

Here is an example....on-camera flash on a tripod. My wife and I look like we were photo-shopped into this picture. Great exposure on the background and good exposure on us. NO SIDE LIGHTING (other than a little shadow effect in the lower right...which gives some depth)


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Jun 30, 2018 08:01:25   #
rdubreuil wrote:
Hey Gator,

The photoshop effect you mentioned could be because the background is too bright causing you both to standout too much. Single point focus in this case would be the best option. As for focus mode single shot not servo. As for the blur you're getting; how sturdy is your tripod setup? What you maybe getting is slight vibration from mirror slap. If you camera has it try the mirror up function with the shutter release delay. Upping your shutter speed and or setting the aperture to f 10 or 11 would also have helped to prevent your background from getting too blown out. If you shot this in raw you maybe able to recover some of the detail in the background by bringing your exposure and highlights down some. It's also not overly blurry and some additional PP in photoshop may be able to recover some of the sharpness and detail. There are lots of good tutorials and videos on you tube on how to accomplish that. Good luck and as always keep shooting...
Hey Gator, br br The photoshop effect you mention... (show quote)


I think the main area to look at is
Single shot AF and spot focus on your wife before you enter the scene. 1/160 is more than enough SS to create sharp photo...even hand held....55mm should be enough length @F8 to have everything in focus. You could try f10 f12 if you are not sure. I think the only thing is making sure you spot focus on your subject and keep enough distance between the camera and the main subject (you 2) ...in order to not blow out the background...otherwise, it may be your lens.
...but I would try even manually focusing on your wife to be sure its not a wonky AF issue. (Google some videos in liveview focusing and zooming to check focus in liveview if you really want to learn something new :-)
Your 70D is a very capable camera and has most of the features of a pro body...
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Jun 25, 2018 06:16:53   #
rgrenaderphoto wrote:
First off, you can never have too much glass.

The Tamron 18-400 would be a great all around solution. Wide angle enough for those sweeping landscapes, and 400 mm to get close for details, particularly if you go on a land/sea cruise, and get to Denali. Then the 10-20 for extreme wide angle, but I bet you find the 18-400 stays on your camera all the time. Bring CPL for shooting glaciers, etc and a decent lens hood. Also, Alaska has real weather. I spent 4 hrs on the topmost deck near the bow of a cruise ship going into glacier bay, I had a decent hooded coat and watch cap, but wished I had gloves.
First off, you can never have too much glass. br ... (show quote)


Best advice. As long as low light and perfect IQ is not a priority. 2 lenses will do and 1 will likely be the only 1 you use....travel light/ focus on wife. :-)
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Jun 25, 2018 06:10:03   #
Get a monopod and practice low shutter speed shooting at long focal lengths. Your technique will play as big a role as the equipment selection combinations you noted. Breathing, squeezing the shutter, shooting between heartbeats .....removal of hood when there is wind to reduce wind pushing on the lens...etc etc...

Learn to be a sniper :-)

Test the 300 x 1.4tc vs 150- 500 and you decide.
A prime 300 2.8 (even on a 1.4tc) will likely trump the 150-500 for IQ.
....just check the AF performance before you go...

(And I would bring the 150-500 if you have room anyway....just in case :-)
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Jun 19, 2018 20:03:17   #
rmalarz wrote:


Additionally, realizing that, when placed on the lens, it becomes part of the optical system. Thus, low budget ones won't cut it.
--Bob


Mines a Kasemann nano mrc i think. Not low budget but not the 400 ones either. Not sure if it messes with sharpness or focus sometimes....need to do a controlled experiment one of these days.....
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Jun 17, 2018 10:36:54   #
I have the 16-35F4Lis.
Great lens. No interest in going to the 2.8
Also have the 24-70F4....and I WILL be going to the 2.8 .

Too completely different use cases. Need the 2.8 for the bokeh and shooting motion in low light. 16-35 is rarely used when there is motion so f4 with the IS is perfect....and the IQ is better than the 2.8

Anything under 35mm distorts. I try to back up and shoot at 35mm min.

....and yes....I have used the 16-35 when backing up means busting down a wall but I never like the results when people are involved edge to edge.

11mm and fish eyes should be used for effect photography and not for people unless they are in the center of the frame and at waist height.

Would rather do a pano than use a a wide angle for landscapes also for same distortion reasons. (Assuming it is not windy :-)
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Jun 17, 2018 10:10:20   #
Shot in Jamaica and currently in Thailand. Cant escape the dew point transition....44degc humidex. Best plan is to put in plastic bags and suck the air out with a straw and seal. Set them on the balcony for 20minutes and you are good to go.

Of course I forgot to do this both times including the current trip .... i just set them on the balcony with lens caps on and wait. They do get wet on the outside but weather sealed body and lens should be OK as there is not enough native mositure in the lens or camera to form a liquid.

Btw.. shooting Alpine Ski races in Collingwood ontario Canada. Come in from the race to the chalet ... same problem....same solution too.
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Jun 17, 2018 01:06:54   #
http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-536732-1.html
...posted this yesterday...example of why you cannot fix in LR/PS ... blown highlights cannot bbe recovered.

I suppose if you wanted to go pixel by pixel you could fix it but it would take about 12 years.
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Jun 16, 2018 07:48:24   #
R.G. wrote:
It's chromatic aberration (CA), also known as colour fringing. The reason why it's inconsistent throughout the photo is that it varies depending on the difference in light levels (contrast) either side of the edge in question. And depending on the lens, it may vary depending on the amount of zoom and may be worse close to the edges. In your shot it's worst where a bright petal has a dark twig behind it, but you'll notice it's not limited to that area.

CA is one of the factors that lens manufacturers put a lot of effort into minimising. As a general rule, expensive lenses will be less prone to it than cheaper lenses (is 70-300 a kit lens?).

You could try a de-fringe tool, but that will probably just get rid of the colour of the fringe rather than getting rid of it completely. Lightroom's 'Lens Corrections' section recognised the lens, but checking the 'Remove CA' box didn't do anything. I tried the de-fringe tool in the Adjustments brush but that just removed the colour of the fringe and left it grey.
It's chromatic aberration (CA), also known as colo... (show quote)


Hmm. You may be right. If you zoom in to the other contrasty petal transitions you see it there also....just not as pronounced.
It appears to be "green fringing". I think it is more pronounced the greater the contrast transition and generally worse in the mid-transition to " out of focus.". Not sharply focused but not quite blurred yet.

It is there in both focused and fully out of focus just not as noticable.....
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Jun 16, 2018 01:12:28   #
SeamusMac wrote:
The arrow points to a flower pedal which has some ghosting, or some damn thing. Is it ghosting. At any rate, can it be removed, and fell free to try. I would appreciate it. Seamus


Might be your filter or lens. I get the same thing when I use my CPL....and its not a cheap CPL either. It shows up when the filter/lens has an item in the photo that has a contrast area at the exact focal distance where the light fails to converge properly onto the sensor. I am COMPLETELY guessing here and I am sure there is a better explanation. Could it be is at the exact location of the beginning of the most evident background blur beginning and you just got unlucky that it happens to fall on a high cintrast area (light petal with dark background)

I notice you dont see it in other contrast areas and there is no camera shake evident...

Do you get this with other lens/filter combos? Did you try this shot at different aperatures/focal lengths....seen it before in your photos?
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Jun 16, 2018 00:50:32   #
...nuff said...

(Ok i cheated a little...one shot was taken a little earlier in the day with my 5dmiv on a 50mm. Came back later with my 70D with a 70-200 and CPL mounted....but you get the idea....)


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Jun 15, 2018 22:51:08   #
johnst1001a wrote:
Just bought the 4, so I am putting my 5DMK3 up for sale. Price $1300, including ground shipping. 20,000 shots taken, camera is 5 years old. Clean. Slight wear on the black coating on the bottom, which is not unusual and purely cosmetic. Shipped from Cincinnati Ohio area.


Would take you up on it but in Canada. ...have to resort to local Kijiji and take my chances...
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