Lens calibration on DSLRs is another long standing UHH discussion akin to JPEG vs raw, Mac vs PC, primes vs zooms, etc. With Mirrorless bodies, it’s not typically an issue, but with DSLRs, some pros do it religiously and some don’t. There are many ways to do it, but most require some subjective judgement by the user. One system that doesn’t is Riekan’s Focal - it provides a clear graph of acuity vs calibration or acuity vs fstop. Regardless whether you calibrate or not, it’s a great tool to tell objectively if a lens is up to snuff and where it’s the sharpest. I test all my lenses with it, whether DSLR or MILC, so I KNOW exactly what the acuity of each lens is and where it’s the sharpest. And for my DSLRs, I calibrate all my lenses, and I’ve found that the vast majority need some correction. What YOU do, is up to you.

I had a bad experience with what I believe was an uncalibrated zoom lens. Some years back we went to
Costa Rica with a Canon 80D and a Tamron 20-400 mm lens. I'm no pro but I've been taking photos for many years with satisfactory results. However, I recently reviewed the Costa Rica photos to find that they were virtually all noticeably out of focus; why I'm just now discovering this is a bit of a mystery. I'm certain that it was because the lens and camera were slightly mismatched. However, the good news is that through the miracle of Topaz Sharpen AI most were recoverable.

Later I tried to calibrate the lens/camera using the recommended procedure but found it nearly impossible to perform accurately enough to help; it's very tedious. If you decide that you need to do the calibration, send camera and lens to camera manufacturer, have them do it and save yourself an afternoon of frustration

Thank you for your sage advice imagemeister...
It is a breath of fresh air amongst the thoughtless regurgitation of other "Tribe" members that dominate UHH.

To the OP: In my experience if a lens was actually designed for film cameras and you are deploying it on a DSLR you would be wise to test it with the camera lock down on a tripod in "LiveView" with a timed release.
In essence LiveView Tripod Mode (Nikon) is actually no different than shooting with a mirrorless camera, if your results in LiveView match your normal focus paradigm (I'm assuming C (Continuous Focus)) then you're likely good (but a mirror box on a DSLR can be off (it happens) thus sometimes one edge is slightly more in focus.
However since the lens in question is a wide angle it is unlikely that you could detect any variations of focus

Please enjoy you journey to the Swiss country... I believe it is still a conflict free zone.

If it is a mirrorless camera, you are overreacting.
If it is a OEM lens, you are overreacting.
If your camera is a DSLR, you are still overreacting.
I have been a professional photographer for over 40 years, and during that time I have won many awards and have done many shows, I have NEVER had to calibrate a lens to a camera yet.
In fact, many professionals caution amateur's to NOT try to calibrate a lens because most of the time they will make it worse.
Here is my advice, always shoot at 1/focal length of the lens, ie. if your lens is a 200 mm, then your minimum shutter speed should be 1/200 second.
Second, stop the lens down 2 or 3 stops, ie. if your lens is a 100mm 1.8 lens, then stop it down to f2.8 to f4.
Third, hold your camera steady using two hands, hold your elbows into your body, press the camera to your face, and breath out when you GENTLY press the shutter button.
If you do this then calibrating the lens will not improve your image quality.

If it is a mirrorless camera, you are overreacting.
If it is a OEM lens, you are overreacting.
If your camera is a DSLR, you are still overreacting.
I have been a professional photographer for over 40 years, and during that time I have won many awards and have done many shows, I have NEVER had to calibrate a lens to a camera yet.
In fact, many professionals caution amateur's to NOT try to calibrate a lens because most of the time they will make it worse.
Here is my advice, always shoot at 1/focal length of the lens, ie. if your lens is a 200 mm, then your minimum shutter speed should be 1/200 second.
Second, stop the lens down 2 or 3 stops, ie. if your lens is a 100mm 1.8 lens, then stop it down to f2.8 to f4.
Third, hold your camera steady using two hands, hold your elbows into your body, press the camera to your face, and breath out when you GENTLY press the shutter button.
If you do this then calibrating the lens will not improve your image quality.