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Bird Photography In Overcast Conditions
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Feb 4, 2019 17:33:49   #
Bipod
 
imagemeister wrote:
This was not HDR, but it was a 6 exposure noise reduction (JPEG only) done on a Sony A77II .....with the 500 AF REFLEX mirror lens .....

..

For me, this image would make an extremely beautiful ceramic tile.

Not everything that starts as a photograph (or six!) ends up as one
(though we make an exception for "trick photography").

If you put a film negative though a meat-grinder, the result is ground acetate--
not a photograph. Add a casing and some pork fat and you've got acetate
sausage. Yum!.

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Feb 4, 2019 17:50:40   #
Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)
 
jeep_daddy wrote:
First off, I was replying to CHARLESTON 1979 and trying to help him with my opinions. I've never seen, or don't really remember seeing any of your images or examined any of the EXIF data of your images so I can't really comment on which ones are or are NOT keepers. Using a 1/10 shutter is extremely difficult to do at the long zooms such at 400mm and up. I don't know what your focal length was for your Night Heron or how the lighting conditions were. If you were happy with that image, and you used a 1/10 shutter then that's great. I've got some shot at 1/6 shutter that I've kept. But if you read what I was saying, I said "most" are not keepers at such slow shutters. I didn't say all. When I have really low lighting conditions like I've talked about, I try to steady my camera on something, and use burst mode. Maybe one in 20 will be sharp. Or I use a tripod. But hand held will not be very easy to get ANY keepers. Although, you can get lucky and get some that are. It also depends on your experience, skill and technique. Not likely that a beginner that is asking this question that the OP is asking is going to net great results for some time using a really slow shutter speed like 1/10th.

To answer your question about flash at 1/200 or 1/250th (sync speed of Nikon and most other cameras for that matter) will NOT give you a double exposure. You should give it a try. I'm not saying that using flash on birds in low light conditions is the best thing to do under all circumstances, it's just another tool you can try. I've used it many times, and try to avoid it unless I just can't get anything else to work. I recently used a flash on a hummingbird nest and each time the mother hummer came back to feed the babies I used flash because the nest was under the canopy of a large tree with no direct sun on the nest. It was in the darkness of the tree shade and the tree was large that ambient light was very low. I did try ISO 3200 and a shutter of 1/200th but that was not cutting it. So I put my flash on the hot shoe and the flash was freezing the wings for the most part. I'll see if I can find some of those images now and post one here.

As I said, flash isn't always the answer. Experience, technique, and skill attained over a period of time is the answer. Knowing what will and what doesn't work is always helpful. Some people I know use shutter priority most of the time. I'm not a fan of that so I use aperture priority most of the time except when using flash. One other thing about flash is that some birds eyes are greatly affected by the flash. Owls especially. I think Night Herons might also have the kind of eyes that will not tolerate flash well. Flash does weird things to the eyes. Also, flash can make some images appear very flat. Sometimes with a little post processing you can bring back some of the contrast to undo what the flash does to make them appear flat.
First off, I was replying to CHARLESTON 1979 and t... (show quote)


For the heron - if you read my post - no zoom - 600mmF4, 1.4 TC, 1/10, F8, IS) 400. Effective field of view of 1260mm on a full frame (600x1.5x1.4) - and the lighting was NYC heavy overcast. I guess you missed most of that. The point I was making was that the rule about using a fast shutter speed is not always appropriate - especially when you have a slow moving bird - like the heron - where only the raised foot was blurred while it moved - the rest of the bird was predictably static.

Ghost exposure is most definitely a concern when using flash. This is EXACTLY what happened with the second hummingbird shot - the flash froze the wings as they were beating, but there was enough ambient light to "ghost" or double expose the flapping wing. And rear curtain/front curtain won't make a difference - I've monked around with that too. The average duration of flash is 1/700 to 1/10,000 (or shorter), depending on power setting. The shutter remains open for 1/200 or 1/250 - so the bird can move during that time, while the flash burst will freeze the bird. This causes a blur or a second image if the ambient light level is high enough (within a stop or so of the correct exposure for flash-only. I've used a Quantum flash with a Better Beamer and found that I would get ghost exposures in all but the poorest light. The biggest pain was when the bird was flying and backlit - where the rim of light around the wing plumage was bright, and the rest of the bird was illuminated by the flash. I have used flash successfully when shooting birds in a nest under an overhang with only one image (out of 40) that had any ghosting. I used an off-camera manual speedlight, bounced off the ceiling of the porch, at low power for these.


(Download)


(Download)

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Feb 4, 2019 19:00:06   #
imagemeister Loc: mid east Florida
 
Bipod wrote:
For me, this image would make an extremely beautiful ceramic tile.

Not everything that starts as a photograph (or six!) ends up as one
(though we make an exception for "trick photography").

If you put a film negative though a meat-grinder, the result is ground acetate--
not a photograph. Add a casing and some pork fat and you've got acetate
sausage. Yum!.


Thanks for your comment !

Reply
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