Al Beatty Loc: Boise, Idaho

I keep the setting to "automated manual" (floating ISO) on my in-the-field camera (Nikon D750), changing the settings is simple when needed. It's easier to reduce noise from high ISO than to get rid of blur from camera motion. Take care & ...

Dikdik Loc: Winnipeg, Canada

Unless I'm looking for a particular depth of field, I nearly always use shutter priority at 1/125sec and auto ISO.

Dik

srt101fan

"automated manual"..... I kinda like that!

Fotoartist Loc: Detroit, Michigan

Steve Perry describes Auto ISO on Manual well. The question the OP needs to ask is when Shouldn't you use Auto ISO since it can be used for most things but shouldn't be used for only a few.

frankraney Loc: Clovis, Ca.

Elmerviking

Wrong!
It works the same way....if there is enough lite it will adjust the aperture smaller. If there is NOT enough light it will set the largest aperture and adjust ISO up to the limit you have set. Still not enough lite then you will see the exposure indicator go negative, which will tell you to chose a longer shutter time.

jeep_daddy Loc: Prescott AZ

Why not shoot in M. Set your aperture for DOF and set the shutter speed for your shaky hands (I'm sure you know how high it must be in order to keep the picture still) and then use Auto ISO. The only thing that will change is the ISO and you'll get pictures that are the proper DOF, and high enough shutter to keep them still.

Elmerviking

👍👍👍

amfoto1 Loc: San Jose, Calif. USA

Manual (M) with Auto ISO is simply another auto exposure (AE) mode. Essentially it's an aperture priority AND shutter priority mode. You set both shutter and aperture, while the camera can vary the ISO as needed to make what it decides is a "correct" exposure.

The other AE modes are:

Aperture Priority AE (A or Av)... you set the ISO and the aperture, the cameras determines what shutter speed to use to make a "correct" exposure.

Shutter Priority AE (S or Tv)... you set the ISO and the shutter speed, the camera chooses an aperture it thinks will make a "correct" exposure.

Program AE (P)... you set only the ISO. The camera chooses both aperture and shutter speed it believes will make a "correct" exposure.

Use the AE mode that's appropriate for the situation you're shooting. If you need to freeze movement or want to cause deliberate motion blur, you'll probably want Shutter Priority AE. If your main concern is depth of field, best choice would probably be Aperture Priority mode. If you aren't too concerned about either of those factors, Program AE might be fine. Or, if you are concerned about both DoF and freezing/blurring movement, and can live with the ISO changing, use Manual with Auto ISO.

Exposure Compensation needs to be usable on any of the AE modes for that mode to be truly useful. I had older cameras with an early version of Auto ISO that didn't allow E.C., so it wasn't usable. Also, to be usable Auto ISO probably needs to have limits you can set. You especially need to be able to set a maximum allowable ISO, but also possibly a minimum... a range within which the ISO is allowed to change as the camera thinks is necessary.

If you want to have full control over all the factors and are able to do so, use full Manual (M) [i]without[i] Auto ISO. Set all three of the exposure parameters yourself. Fully manual exposure doesn't allow the camera to make any "decisions". You make them all, instead. It's great to use when you know how to do so AND when it's possible to use.

However there are shooting situations where fully manual won't work, where it's necessary to use one of the AE modes. If lighting conditions are variable... or if you are photographing a subject that's moving in and out of shade.... it may not be possible to use a strictly manual mode. Someone who only does landscapes or architecture might only ever use M. Studio photographers with full control over lighting might be able to use only M, too. But sports shooters and wildlife photographers are likely to need to use one or the other of the AE modes fairly often. Which one they choose depends upon the subject and how they are trying to capture it in an image.

Personally I cannot think of any reason to ever use Auto ISO in conjunction with any of the other AE modes (A/Av, S/Tv or P). That would make for sort of a "double auto" mode and might make for some unpredictability. I can't see how a double auto mode would serve any purpose and never combine Auto ISO with any of the other AE modes. I only use it with M.

Chris T Loc: from England across the pond to New England

SRT - The M-A-S-P dial is virtually the same on ALL digital cameras (at least - all the ones I have, which includes Nikon, Canon, Sony, Pentax, Olympus, Panasonic, Fuji) ... where it differs, is with Canon - who refer to the AP mode as AV (Aperture Values) and the SP mode as TV (Time Values.) Additionally, on most camera dials - you have the Full Auto Mode - which is usually green, or yellow (or you may have both, on some.) It is ONLY on this last setting, where control of ISO is taken away from you. P mode allows for almost fully automatic operation, except that you still have full control over ISO - unless you also set that on Auto. But, with P - as opposed to Full Auto, you don't have auto operation of the built-in flash, which you do with Full Auto. Many dials also have a NO FLASH mode, which is Full Auto, w/o the flash. If you don't have a Full Auto mode (Nikon D500 users, primarily) then use P instead - but, remember - the setting of ISO is now up to you. Set it where you want, or use Auto ISO.

Elmerviking

Personally I can’t see any reason to not use M+auto ISO.
It gives me full control over everything..aperture (DOF), shutter speed ( motion blur), ISO ( you control ISO by adjusting aperture and/or shutter speed)
If the exposure is not where you want it to be you use EC + or -, which will adjust ISO up or down!
If you set ISO to be shown in the viewfinder instead of the default picture count, you never have to take the camera down from your eyes!
Isn’t that the easiest way?

catchlight.. Loc: Wisconsin USA- Halden Norway

It is "Full Manual" because you are selecting "Manual mode" with shutter speed and aperture locked in. Exposure comp can override auto ISO... so you are in full control in a way.

That's the advantage, only one override function to adjust in changing conditions.

Elmerviking

You got that right catchlite!
Full manual mode , to me, means manual focus, no distortion control, no noise reduction etc. or ANY automatic functions chosen.
How many “purists” shoot like that?
If you set your camera to “M” it is called manual mode in all instructions I have read!

BebuLamar

In fact I shoot like that often.

Chris T Loc: from England across the pond to New England

Elmer … I don't KNOW of ANY digital camera which doesn't show the ISO - both, on-screen, and in the VF.

If one sets the ISO on Auto, and then adjusts aperture and shutter speed - it doesn't always change ISO concurrently - at least, not for nominal adjustments. And, using Exposure Compensation to adjust ISO - is a bit foolhardy. Better, to adjust ISO. If you make adjustments on too many parameters, it's easy to get LOST!!! ... I'd think EC is the one thing it's better to leave alone. The base is a good place to leave it.