TriX wrote:
But remember, it’s not only manual aperture and focus (which was standard for us all before AF and cameras with auto exposure modes) - it’s the fact that you lose stop down metering which even your Pentax had. That means that you focus with the aperture wide open and then you, not the camera, have to turn the aperture back down to the shooting aperture - that takes time, and you can easily lose the composition or subject while doing that. Then of course, you have to return the aperture to wide open for the next shot, because stopped down, the viewfinder will likely be too dim for accurate focus. Fully manual lenses are fine for non moving subjects where you’re on a tripod and have plenty of time to diddle with everything, but that’s not the usual use for a long tele.
But remember, it’s not only manual aperture and fo... (
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Actually, when using FD lens adapted to mirrorless bodies, that level of complexity is not part of the usage equation. Set the aperture on the lens to whatever you desire for the composition. The adapters are nothing more than open metal donuts, no glass. The mirrorless sensor meters of the light that falls on it for the shutter and ISO selected. Only if your composition and exposure parameters are too dark to focus via the EVF, even with peeked to 100%, just adjust the shutterspeed and / or ISO on the camera to brighten the EVF; restore those parameters when you've focused the lens. Useful tools / technique, but of course, impractical for situations other than static subjects if shooting in lower light / smaller apertures. If you're shooting raw and exposing to the right, your EVF will likely already be 'bright' enough to focus quickly and easily without needing to temporarily adjust the exposure for focusing purposes.