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Manual Mode?
Dec 23, 2018 13:20:04 #
JD750 wrote:
Huh? My film cameras have built in light meters, well 2 of them do.
Yes, some did.... But in the older ones, and I mean older, they did not. At least to my memory. But I'm older than dirt and have crs syndrome.
Dec 23, 2018 13:36:30 #
amfoto1 wrote:
Learn to use all the exposure modes: M, A, S, P and M + Auto ISO.
People who tell you that you should only use M are full of $#)!
In fact, I bet a lot of them are actually using M + Auto ISO, which isn't manual at all.
All the exposure modes have purposes and can be preferable or even necessary in various situations. A well-rounded photographer know how.... and when.... to use each of them.
People who tell you that you should only use M are full of $#)!
In fact, I bet a lot of them are actually using M + Auto ISO, which isn't manual at all.
All the exposure modes have purposes and can be preferable or even necessary in various situations. A well-rounded photographer know how.... and when.... to use each of them.
This is the best general answer to the OP's question.
I will also opine that many of those "serious professionals who only shoot manual" shoot raw and post-process. I further opine that the differences in exposures chosen by the camera in an auto or semi-auto mode vs the manual settings would not be enough to seriously affect the final processed image... in most situations. Sure, there will be extreme cases where a manual override would make a difference, but I believe the majority of automatically-exposed raw files provide enough raw data to yield a great photo... if you know what you are doing in PP.
Dec 23, 2018 14:25:19 #
I don’t think anyone has mentioned WYSIWYG?
An EVF can save you a lot of time, it shows you what you will get (or pretty close) before you shoot with all the parameters you have chosen
More fun for me, anyway
An EVF can save you a lot of time, it shows you what you will get (or pretty close) before you shoot with all the parameters you have chosen
More fun for me, anyway
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Dec 23, 2018 14:48:40 #
SonyA580 wrote:
Back in the day ...., when everything was "Manual", we used the match needle in the camera or the handheld lightmeter to arrive at the correct exposure. Nothing much has changed in that respect. Other than guessing, how could you arrive at the correct settings?
when everything was "Manual"
Back in those days you couldn't select ASA could you?
Am I correct?
Dec 23, 2018 14:51:52 #
charles tabb wrote:
when everything was "Manual"
Back in those days you couldn't select ASA could you?
Am I correct?
Back in those days you couldn't select ASA could you?
Am I correct?
Only by changing the film.
Dec 23, 2018 15:17:40 #
SonyA580 wrote:
Back in the day ...., when everything was "Manual", we used the match needle in the camera or the handheld lightmeter to arrive at the correct exposure. Nothing much has changed in that respect. Other than guessing, how could you arrive at the correct settings?
Arriving at a correct exposure requires that the user understand that the needle is showing what a correct exposure would be IF THE SUBJECT HAS THE BRIGHTNESS OF 18% GREY! While this is a good assumption in most cases, there are cases where the experienced photographer knows it is not. A snow scene is a classic example, as is a backlit subject or a moon shot.
Snow is brighter than 18% grey, so you must INCREASE the exposure sice the camera will make snow grey.
While a full moon is very bright, thew average of a scene with it in it will be less than 18% grey, so the needle will add exposure, washing out the moon. Here you must DECREASE the exposure. And so on...
With digital cameras, checking after a shot will show the inexperienced how it came out and whether to change exposre or not. The histogram is an aid to this.
Overriding can be done by using Manual and adjusting speed, aperture, or ISO as desired, OR by using the "Exposure Compensation" function of the camera in all but Auto mode.
Dec 23, 2018 21:22:43 #
You have received four pages of technical info. I’ll approach this a different way. My light meter NEVER tells me what settings to shoot with, but merely an idea of how much light is present. I start from there and make adjustments based on knowledge and experience. Cameras do not know what you are trying to achieve
... Cam
... Cam
dp75 wrote:
A lot of photographers suggest us that we should take photos in manual mode. However, most cameras these days have exposure needle to guide us the correct exposure, and we can see it in the viewfinder. It automatically sets your exposure when you use auto, P, aperture, or time mode. Does that mean the needle indicates inaccurate exposure? Or, is it deceiving us if we don't use manual mode?
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
Dec 23, 2018 22:42:13 #
Toment wrote:
I don’t think anyone has mentioned WYSIWYG?
An EVF can save you a lot of time, it shows you
what you will get (or pretty close) before you
shoot with all the parameters you have chosen
More fun for me, anyway
I don’t think anyone has mentioned WYSIWYG?
An EVF can save you a lot of time, it shows you
what you will get (or pretty close) before you
shoot with all the parameters you have chosen
More fun for me, anyway
Yeah, WYSIWYG !
WYSIWYG can allow your camera to BE your
light meter. After all, other than increasing
sensitivity, all the progress in meter designs
was about helping you to visualize a result.
But all that improved help at visualizing was
always displayed as a bunch of numbers. So
it's terrific progress when the improved help
at visualizing is actually a visual image !
Just as with the numbers, you gotta apply a
few smarts to make best use of the readout.
Just as you were NOT best off to mindlessly
read the numbers and declare "THAT is the
right setting", likewise you will not be best
off to view the "readout image" and declare
"THAT looks great". My own readout images
do NOT "look great" at all when I've nailed
my desired color and exposure settings.
All by plan !
My cameras are not set up to show constant
WYSIWYG. I assign WYSIWYG to a button to
make a quick check concerning the expected
SOOC result. Now here is the special thing:
My cameras are always set to take unlovely,
low contrast, low saturation, muted-looking
SOOC images [jpgs]. IOW images that need
large changes in post to look in the least bit
"pleasant". So why WYSIWYG ugly images ?
Cuz I know what I'm looking for. I'm looking
for as much tonal info as can fit into the jpg,
so I won't be faced with blown out highs or
unrecoverable shadows. But I don't wanna
overdo the "muting" cuz then when I edit to
an "accurate" or "attractive" result, if there
is too LITTLE color and contrast, the amount
I'll hafta bring up will look phony. After all, if
you start out with nearly no color at all, then
you're basically "colorizing"a Black & White,
and it will look phony like a Turner TV movie.
My WYSIWYG button would display the
second image shown below:
Dec 23, 2018 23:00:02 #
The TTL light meter is usually close, but usually just gives you an average reading, especially if you don't aim the camera at darker or lighter areas of the scene. If your scene is fairly evenly lit, it doesn't matter much where you point. If you have time, bracket your shots. Same scene, set by your meter, then at least one shot underexposed and one shot overexposed. Check the histogram and the LCD screen. The histogram is much more accurate than the screen, but it will tell you if you're close. If you shoot for awhile, you'll be able to get a good guess about what settings for what lighting situation, but metering is always a good thing to do.
Dec 24, 2018 00:00:57 #
charles tabb wrote:
when everything was "Manual"
Back in those days you couldn't select ASA could you?
Am I correct?
Back in those days you couldn't select ASA could you?
Am I correct?
Sure you could/can. Film's come in different ASA ratings. All you have to do is load the film with the ASA you want.
Dec 24, 2018 01:19:16 #
Unless, of course, you still had half a roll of film in the camera with the wrong ASA. You really had to carry multiple bodies back then.
...Cam
...Cam
JD750 wrote:
Sure you could/can. Film's come in different ASA ratings. All you have to do is load the film with the ASA you want.
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Dec 24, 2018 01:44:16 #
charles tabb wrote:
when everything was "Manual"
Back in those days you couldn't select ASA could you?
Am I correct?
Back in those days you couldn't select ASA could you?
Am I correct?
Depended on camera type - some cameras auto selected ASA by reading the cassette. Others did not, which meant manually setting the film speed - which also meant that we could "pump up" the ASA as we saw fit.
Dec 24, 2018 04:24:53 #
dp75 wrote:
A lot of photographers suggest us that we should take photos in manual mode. However, most cameras these days have exposure needle to guide us the correct exposure, and we can see it in the viewfinder. It automatically sets your exposure when you use auto, P, aperture, or time mode. Does that mean the needle indicates inaccurate exposure? Or, is it deceiving us if we don't use manual mode?
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
Not really, but...
The needle indicates middle gray for both what you might like as white or black. If you are measuring middle gray then P, AE, and M should all give you the same exposure, if not then you have to think and trick the camera with E.C. or the "manual" settings you choose. This is a vast over-simplification.
I usually shoot in Av (Aperture Priority) semi-AE mode, but I watch the camera's choice of Shutter Speed like a hawk, adjust exposure or Zone with Exposure Compensation (E.C.) and usually shot at ISO 200. I'm an old film shooter for decades before going digital. Note, when using vintage manual lenses I do have to shoot in full Manual mode.
Dec 24, 2018 12:51:16 #
Dec 24, 2018 13:11:27 #
User ID wrote:
Wrong. All of them have a "needle". "Needle"
was the figure of speach that he chose when
he described what the exposure scale shows.
It's his word for the little moving indicator.
Go ahead and say that "needle", to you, is
the big needle in your old film camera. Be as
unintuitive as you please. But it was easy to
understand what he meant.
was the figure of speach that he chose when
he described what the exposure scale shows.
It's his word for the little moving indicator.
Go ahead and say that "needle", to you, is
the big needle in your old film camera. Be as
unintuitive as you please. But it was easy to
understand what he meant.
Why must you be so belligerent?! All I said was none of my DSLR'S have a needle. Aslo, I'm not the only responder that mentioned the needle thing, but I'm the one you "yelled" at. Yes was referring to a physical needle indicator like the ones in my SLR cameras. I have never heard the meter in a DSLR referred to as a needle, since it definitely is not a needle. Calling a meter display in a DSLR a needle is not at all intuitive or even a shortcut. Meter has five letters, needle has six.
I guess it must be an old man thing. I may be older but I'm not as old as many UHH members.
Well, at least you didn't tear apart what I said, only focused on the irrelevant. But I'm sure a superior, experienced person such as yourself could point out that everything I said is wrong and bad advice.
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