Largobob

chrisg-optical Loc: New York, NY

UV and "skylight" filters were more important for film photography back in the day (or if you still shoot with film as some do)...for the digital age post processing negated the need for such filters, but ND and CPL filters are still useful. As for protection, if you drop a lens with a filter attached it could still break internally from the shock. Same goes for a sharp blow or drop to the front. The front element may be intact, but the internal mechanism may get messed up....I had this happen with a Tokina 70-200 lens for Olympus (film OM-2/4) years ago - I dropped it from a moderate height and then the focus ring would not turn....but the front element was intact. A good solid hood will provide better protection for casual bumps and grinds. I think it's a conspiracy among photo sales folks - whenever I buy a lens lately (at B&H for example) the sales guy will ask me "how about a UV filter for protection?". I usually decline but 2 of my lenses have UV filters on them.

But if a filter is necessary - any type - this is my order of preference - B+W, Hoya (premium MC only), Tiffen.

bob100

Appreciate everyone’s feedback. I must admit I am torn between using a high quality UV or clear filter or none at all. I came into the discussion leaning towards the filter but now I am 50/50. I appreciate any additional comments/opinions. Again, thanks to all!

Bipod

This sudden reluctance to put filters on the front of expensive lenses is puzzling.

An expensive zoom lens could have 15 optical groups = 30 surfaces.
If you already have 30 surfaces, what's 2 more -- provided they are well multi-coated?

That lens by itself is the equivalent of screwing 15 filters together!

Lens manufacturers have been able to conceal the loss of contrast in very complex
lenses though a remarkable bit of sleight-of-hand. Most MTF diagrams are no longer based
on testing wtih bar charts (e.g., USAF 1951), but on a slit lamp test. If you imagine being
in dark room with the door open a crack into a brightly lit room: it's like photographing
that sliver of light.

Now photographing bright cracks is not something we actually do in photography.
But it is a convenient way of getting MTF data---except for the fact that it doesn't
flare the lens the way light entering the lens at an angle does.

The old bar tests were better, bcause you had a white chart with black bars on it -- not
too different than taking a photograph in a room with white walls or outside on a sunny day.
Bright light entering at a high angle causes havoc in a lens.

So there are all these people walking around with extremely expensive zoom lenses,
thinking the lenses are contrasty when they're not. The lens may have "nano-crystal"
coatings (or "11 secret herbs and spices" coatings) --- but 30 surfaces is a lot by any
standard. You're going to get some flare, which reduces contrast.

Of course, if you only looks at image files on an LCD/LED monitor, you might not
notice, since the montor itself is probably only capable of displaying 6 or 7 stops. But
when you encounter a low contrast subject, on an overcast day, the photo will come out
looking blah. Then it will get noticed--but chancers are you'll never suspect your
expensive zoom lens.

It's a good lens right? Well, it's as good as a lens with 30 surfaces can be! It's
well-corrected, just not contrasty.

suntouched Loc: Sierra Vista AZ

I use a protective filter filter in inclement weather only- rain, wind, blowing dust. And specialty filters as needed. Otherwise not, depending on my lens cap and hood to protect. That hasn't always been the case. When I use a filter I buy good ones, although not in the 200-300.00 + range. B+W, upper end Tiffen and Hoya, Nikon.

berchman Loc: South Central PA

Sigma Ceramic filters are the only ones which offer physical protection because of the toughness of the ceramic glass. They are very expensive, but I used them when I had Nikon lenses and I use them now on my Fuji lenses. Optically, they will not degrade your photos. I know that there are a lot of people on this forum who say that a lens hood is enough protection, but I would rather clean a dirty filter than a dirty lens. If I were taking a picture in which there was a great danger of flare, then I would temporarily remove the filter.
https://www.sigmaphoto.com/accessories/lens-filters/wr-ceramic-filters

NikonZSeriesMike Loc: Naples, FL

I use B+W filters primarily. I have several Hoya filters I puchased initially, but now I exclusively use B+W. B+W filters are not the cheapest but certainly one of the best.

jerryc41 Loc: Catskill Mts of NY

UV Filters -
https://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2017/06/the-comprehensive-ranking-of-the-major-uv-filters-on-the-market/
http://www.lenstip.com/113.1-article-UV_filters_test_Introduction.html
http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/2262/are-digital-sensors-sensitive-to-uv

Polarizing -
http://www.lenstip.com/115.1-article-Polarizing_filters_test.html
http://www.lenstip.com/115.4-article-Polarizing_filters_test_Results_and_summary.html
http://www.techradar.com/how-to/photography-video-capture/cameras/best-circular-polarizer-filter-5-top-models-tested-and-rated-1320842

CaptainPhoto

I use primarily B&W filters, UV and otherwise. And yes, if I'm going to shoot the moon I take the UV filter off. First time I shot the moon I wondered why I had two moons?
As everyone has been saying, basically good glass deserves good filters, don't go cheap. B&H many times has sales on good filters. If your a little short on cash and want to save some $ on say ND or CP filters buy the one you need for your largest lens and then get some step-down rings to fit your other lenses.

CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City

You can also buy filters used from KEH, some still in the original, unused box, for about half price.

cjc2 Loc: Hellertown PA

This is EXACTLY what I use and so I also endorse these as some of the best available at reasonable prices. I'd suggest not bothering with the cheap ones. Best of luck.

JR69 Loc: Wolverine Michigan

Yes I do use good quality multi coated Hoya and or Tiffen filters. Using cheap filters on $2K+ lens is insane. The filters are UV for general protection of front smudges, dust spots, water spots from under growth walking in forests etc. I would rather scratch the filter when cleaning in the field than the front element of the lens.. A CP filter if the sun is out and shooting landscape with sky, lakes and reflections. I usually carry 2 lens for my D610.. Nikon 17-35mm f2.8 wide zoom and 70-200 f2.8 VRII Depending on what and where I am shooting both lens usually will have the same filter on them. A ND and Star filters are near by but not on me unless circumstances warrant them. Using filters for protection from dropping the lens is not a consideration. Perhaps I have been lucky or overly cautious but never have dropped a camera in 50 years of shooting

When changing lens in the field I don't usually have time to find and put the front lens cap on the lens, remove hood and place in Lowe Pro S&F lens exchange case, but rather remove lens from the body, place it in the exchange bag, put rear cap from second lens on first lens and then put the second lens on the body. Using a CP on most any lens with a hood on the lens is nearly impossible with my fat and arthritic fingers so there for do not usually use the lens hood. The only exception to that is on my Nikon 300mm f2.8 VRII I always use the hood on that glass.

stevefrankel

That would be true if you wanted to call attention to you and your camera by attaching a lens hood (particularly to a small camera) and going through several lens caps every year due to your losing them. When street shooting, I think the UV filter is the best way of protecting your lens if you don't actually need the lens hood function.

kmpankopf Loc: Mid-Michigan; SW Pennsylvania

I just changed to Sigma WR-UVs. These are not the ceramic ones mentioned before. These made a huge difference from the off the rack filters I was using before.
I use filters for outdoor trips. Just easier to clean, IMO. When working inside, I will remove them.

speters Loc: Grangeville/Idaho

Would I put a filter on it, of course, that's what I do with all my lenses, but I certainly only use filters, that I know are good and won't affect the IQ of any given lens. For round filters, I usually stick with B&W, Schneider, or some top Hoya, for rectangular filters, I only use Singh Ray, but everybody has his/hers own preferences. A lot of companies make good filters, ok, they are usually a bit pricier, but its worth it, because they do not ruin your images!
UV filters still serve the same purpose now, as they did back with film!