Jonathan wrote:
I’m shooting with a Canon EOS 60d APS C camera. I have a pristine Canon 28mm 1.2 FD lens and a Canon 135mm FD lens. If I understand the conversion charts, using the 28FD on a DSLR APS C sensor camera will give me angle of view greater that the 28mm on film (“full frame”) and I would need at 17.5 mm EF lens just to get a 28mm wide angle view.
1. What angle of view will I get IF I convert the analog lens to digital use and is there any good reason to do so especially as I mostly do landscapes?
2. Same questions with a Canon 135mm FD lens?
Thanks,
I’m shooting with a Canon EOS 60d APS C camera. I... (
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First, there's no such thing as a Canon FD 28mm f/1.2
There are 28mm f/2 and 28mm f/2.8... And there are 50mm f/1.2 and 85mm f/1.2. But there has never been a 28mm f/1.2.
There were also several 135mm FD lenses.
None of them are easily adapted and used on modern Canon EOS/EF DSLRs (or EOS/EF film cameras for that matter).
The problem is that the FD/FL system used a 42mm lens flange to film distance. That's the distance the lenses are designed to focus. The modern EOS/EF mount uses a 44mm flange to film distance. So there is no room to install an adapter. There ARE FD to EF adapters with "corrective" optics to change the focal point of the lens... however the affordable ones are pretty poor quality. Canon themselves made a high quality adapter, but it was extremely expensive and few were sold. Today it's very rare and few that I've seen sell have brought over $1000. The last was some years ago, so I have no idea what they bring now.
There is a guy named Ed Mika who makes FD to EF replacement bayonet mounts for SOME Canon FD lenses. If you Google him you will find info, I'm sure. This requires mofifying the lens... removing the original mount and installing the new one. And it's not possible to do with all the old lenses.... so you have to check with Ed to see if there's one made for your specific lens. Last I looked, those Ed Mika's FD to EF mount replacement bayonet mounts cost about $100 per lens.
In any case, the lenses will be manual focus AND manual aperture only on your modern EOS camera. As you stop the lens down, you viewfinder will actually dim down too. At around f/8 or f/11 it can be hard to see to focus unless you have really good light. Larger apertures will be problematic in lower light conditions. Live View might help, with Exposure Simulation enabled to brighten up the image. Some adapters have a "chip" that allows focus confirmation to work, too... though AFAIK, none of Ed Mika's do.
A 28mm is a 28mm, regardless of the format it's used on film, full frame or APS-C.
28mm "behaves" differently on different formats. On a film/full frame camera it's a moderately wide angle lens. On an APS-C camera like yours, it will act more like a very slightly wide "normal" lens. If you have a zoom with 28mm as part of it's range, you can set it to that and it will be the same as using that 28mm lens (except the prime lens might have a larger maximum aperture and be better in low light conditions).
The 135mm is a moderate telephoto on film/full... or somewhat longer moderate telephoto on an APS-C camera. Once again, if you have a zoom with 135mm in it's range, setting it to that will give the same results as the 135mm lens.