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A point that's often overlooked when discussing how to shoot a full moon
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Oct 28, 2018 10:08:36   #
Floyd R Turbo Loc: Kingwood, TX
 
Thank you all for your great suggestions. Being a newby, I now have somewhere to start. Looking at the Gene51 moon shot, its interesting what you "see" on the surface of the moon. At 12:00 o'clock, 1/5 towards the center there appears to be a group of buildings as you zoom in. At 1:00 there seems to be a huge crater 1/4 the moon's diameter I had not noticed before. At 4:00 near the outer surface is a huge dome looking thing (what's that!). At 5:00 near the outer surface, could that be a sports stadium? Then at 8:00, I've always been amazed at the debris field that radiates outward from the crater for several hundred miles. Great shot!

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Oct 28, 2018 10:08:37   #
Linda From Maine Loc: Yakima, Washington
 
par4fore wrote:
...For me I also like to use a tripod, mirror up (Live View) and manual focus.
Many thanks for your input and for a fascinating image - that must have taken a lot of patience and expertise to achieve

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Oct 28, 2018 10:09:56   #
Linda From Maine Loc: Yakima, Washington
 
Floyd R Turbo wrote:
Thank you all for your great suggestions. Being a newby, I now have somewhere to start. Looking at the Gene51 moon shot, its interesting what you "see" on the surface of the moon. At 12:00 o'clock, 1/5 towards the center there appears to be a group of buildings as you zoom in. At 1:00 there seems to be a huge crater 1/4 the moon's diameter I had not noticed before. At 4:00 near the outer surface is a huge dome looking thing (what's that!). At 5:00 near the outer surface, could that be a sports stadium? Then at 8:00, I've always been amazed at the debris field that radiates outward from the crater for several hundred miles. Great shot!
Thank you all for your great suggestions. Being a... (show quote)
I enjoyed your flight of fantasy

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Oct 28, 2018 10:34:28   #
agillot
 
i cant imagine this picture sharper , always hear that , could be sharper , this is one of the best full moon shot i have seen !!

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Oct 28, 2018 10:39:27   #
newvy
 
When istarted a long time ago (plusX/TriX) I was told a basic rule when shooting the moon: middle fstop (f8) shutter speed closest to iso. Easy peasy lemon squeezy! Has worked well for me.

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Oct 28, 2018 10:40:07   #
newvy
 
ASA in those days!

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Oct 28, 2018 10:42:59   #
Linda From Maine Loc: Yakima, Washington
 
agillot wrote:
i cant imagine this picture sharper , always hear that , could be sharper , this is one of the best full moon shot i have seen !!
Glad you're enjoying the topic, agillot. But please remember to use quote reply or include the user's name in your comments when participating in a long thread. We don't know whose moon you are praising

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Oct 28, 2018 10:43:34   #
Linda From Maine Loc: Yakima, Washington
 
newvy wrote:
When istarted a long time ago (plusX/TriX) I was told a basic rule when shooting the moon: middle fstop (f8) shutter speed closest to iso. Easy peasy lemon squeezy! Has worked well for me.
Many thanks for your input!

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Oct 28, 2018 10:56:20   #
burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC
 
Linda From Maine wrote:
With a large variety of suggested settings, seemingly different for every respondent, I feel that one point being overlooked is the fact that different combinations of numbers can equal the same exposure.

If your moon is a featureless white blob, it might simply be over-exposure and you merely have to make a darker exposure to achieve success. But, do you understand that you should not randomly change your settings? Consider these points:

1. Depth of field is not relevant if you are shooting just the moon itself, so set your aperture to what you have learned gives best image quality with your lens (click for information on lens diffraction)

2. Shutter speed is relevant because the moon is moving and you or your camera may be also.

3. ISO is relevant because many cameras produce better quality images with lower ISO.

I would appreciate discussion that furthers the understanding of why we choose the settings we have suggested to our moon-shooting newbies Many thanks!
With a large variety of suggested settings, seemin... (show quote)




The basic bright daylight exposure for Earth — or the moon photographed from Earth — is 1/ISO for a shutter speed at f/16... so any equivalent combination of sensitivity (ISO), time (shutter speed), and aperture (f/stop) will work — *before* you compensate for the atmosphere.

ISO 200 @ f/4 @ between 1/3200 and 1/500 works best for me with my Micro 4/3 camera. Here’s why:

The shutter speed variation is due to atmospheric conditions.

The 200 ISO is base — providing best dynamic range, most color, least noise — on my camera.

I have tested my lenses to perform best at f/4 (best sharpness, least diffraction, etc.). f/4 also allows use of a higher shutter speed.

Bracketing helps a lot! I also record raw files for their post-processing latitude.

More tips:

Keep the shutter speed no slower than 1/500. Use a monopod *with* any stabilization in body and/or lens (follow the camera manufacturer’s advice on using or disabling stabilization when using a TRIPOD). Raise ISO if needed to maintain a fast shutter speed.

Remove any filter from the front of your lens, to avoid reflections bouncing around between the back of the filter and the front lens element and causing flare.

The moon is grayish, not white, so consider that when judging exposure. Chances are, the camera meter is pretty useless for moon photography.

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Oct 28, 2018 11:08:30   #
Linda From Maine Loc: Yakima, Washington
 
burkphoto wrote:


The basic bright daylight exposure for Earth — or the moon photographed from Earth — is 1/ISO for a shutter speed at f/16... so any equivalent combination of sensitivity (ISO), time (shutter speed), and aperture (f/stop) will work — *before* you compensate for the atmosphere.

ISO 200 @ f/4 @ between 1/3200 and 1/500 works best for me with my Micro 4/3 camera. Here’s why:

The shutter speed variation is due to atmospheric conditions.

The 200 ISO is base — providing best dynamic range, most color, least noise — on my camera.

I have tested my lenses to perform best at f/4 (best sharpness, least diffraction, etc.). f/4 also allows use of a higher shutter speed.

Bracketing helps a lot! I also record raw files for their post-processing latitude.

More tips:

Keep the shutter speed no slower than 1/500. Use a monopod *with* any stabilization in body and/or lens (follow the camera manufacturer’s advice on using or disabling stabilization when using a TRIPOD). Raise ISO if needed to maintain a fast shutter speed.

Remove any filter from the front of your lens, to avoid reflections bouncing around between the back of the filter and the front lens element and causing flare.

The moon is grayish, not white, so consider that when judging exposure. Chances are, the camera meter is pretty useless for moon photography.
img src="https://static.uglyhedgehog.com/images/s... (show quote)
Many thanks for sharing your comprehensive guidelines in an easy-to-read format, Bill

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Oct 28, 2018 11:10:29   #
Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)
 
larryepage wrote:
Gene...

In my opinion, this is a very nice portrait of the moon. It is well exposed and has lots of detail. I like to do mine maybe a half stop (or maybe a little more) darker, but I like your image.

If you look along the left side and top of the limb, from about the 7:00 position to maybe the 12:30 position, there is some sort of ghosting. I wonder if this is what he is seeing? But the right side and boundary look perfect. It could be some sort of artifact from when you made your upload copy, could be some sort of flare, or could be just the characteristic of the way the light is reflected. The sun is behind your left shoulder, with its light passing by your left temple, it looks like, so maybe that is the source of the effect.
Gene... br br In my opinion, this is a very nice ... (show quote)


Not sure what that is - and it's all around the edge from 7:00 to almost 3:00 - but I don't think it is due to camera movement.

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Oct 28, 2018 11:42:51   #
dennis2146 Loc: Eastern Idaho
 
Architect1776 wrote:
Estuary Quartering


I guess that sounds appropriate so far until something better comes along. Good quick answer.

Dennis

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Oct 28, 2018 11:43:12   #
pila
 
Linda From Maine wrote:
IMO focal length comes into play only when pointing out that if a moon fills just a tiny portion of your frame, you have to be realistic regarding how much cropping can be done. We see similar unrealistic expectations with bird photography. In cases like that, there are other options. For the moon, one option is to include it in a landscape at sunrise or sunset.

.


Such a magnificent moon landscape. Unforgettable,
Pila.

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Oct 28, 2018 11:43:21   #
Cyberkinesis70 Loc: Northern Colorado
 
I use what some people call loony 11. I use SS 1/125 f11 and ISO 100 sometimes I've used f16. Back in the film days this is what I used, except it was ASA 100. In those days you didn't get to see what you got until you got to the darkroom. I'm currently using D3400 and the kit 70-300 mm lens. The results are as good as with film. I've never tried to meter the moon. That seems like a nearly impossible task. Shots are free with DSLR. Experiment around this by bracketing and find what works for you. The moon moves fast and conditions like clouds move faster. so you have to keep the shutter speed up.

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Oct 28, 2018 11:49:20   #
Linda From Maine Loc: Yakima, Washington
 
pila wrote:
Such a magnificent moon landscape. Unforgettable,
Pila.
Thank you for your lovely compliment!

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