Foto Fun

I've been reading the UHH Digest for a many months and this is my first post. I did film SLR (Canon) for years. Got tired of lugging all the stuff around. Tried a series of early digital point-and-shoots and up to a bridge or 'super-zoom.' Finally decided to get back into bigger sensors and interchangeable lenses and chose the micro four-thirds format. Olympus OM-D EM10 MkII and assorted lenses. Probably a typical tale. BTW, I'm very happy with my Olympus kit. Just a little GAS for the EM1 MkII, but I know I haven't mastered the EM10, yet.

My real question is, we're heading on a cruise to Antarctica next month. I have a CPL for my walk-around lens, the 12-40mm f/2.8 Pro. I have two telephotos, the 40-150 and the 75-300mm (these are all M43 focal lengths). I recognize the challenges of shooting in the snow and ice. Do you recommend CPL's for the longer telephotos? I know the CPL will reduce the exposure by another stop or so on otherwise fairly 'slow' lenses.

I'd appreciate hearing from the 'Hogs' on the trade-offs on polarization, exposure and any other considerations. Thanks.

Bill Munny Loc: Aurora, Colorado

My daughter went there in Feb for 2 weeks, got some super photos. She said the glare is incredible, and most of her pics were taken with the CPL. You need some for your eyes also. She was shooting up to 400 mm and it seemed to be good but she was at 400mm a lot, felt she could have used a 500-600mm lens.

CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City

Use exposure compensation or adjust your exposure manually to assure a proper exposure when using the CPL.

speters Loc: Grangeville/Idaho

The CPL is good for any lens, longer lenses are actually an advantage as one can have trouble to get even polarization with a wide angle lens!

Leitz Loc: Solms

A polariser will have the same effect with your new camera and lenses that it did with the film gear you had all that experience with.

rook2c4 Loc: Philadelphia, PA USA

As you already have a CPL at hand, why not simply experiment with it and see what works and what doesn't?

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

Exposure compensation for the in camera metering system won't help adjust for the lower light coming through the filter. The meter is only reading what it sees - and that would be the lower amount of light. The compensation is to ensure that the snow and ice are not overexposed.

In fact, the Olympus has a highlight protection spot metering mode, which is used to expose as brightly as possible without overexposing - think of it as automatic Expose To The Right (ETTR).

It also has a shadow protection spot metering mode - which, when pointed at a dark subject will automatically do ETTL.

http://www.olympusamerica.com/crm/oneoffpages/crm_e_metering.asp

The camera has this, so why not use it?

wdross Loc: Castle Rock, Colorado

Personally, I think the CPL filters are worth it even though they change the exposure more than a stop. One of the other alternatives is to rent the 12-100 f4 Pro IS lense along with the CPL for it. It is one of the finest travel lenses around.

rmalarz Loc: Tempe, Arizona

My preference is to use CPL filters on anything but wide angle lenses. The results are far better on longer focal length lenses.

If you truly have a walk-around lens, you're very lucky. I have to carry all of mine.
--Bob

Architect1776 Loc: In my mind

Flickwet Loc: NEOhio

Why? I hear these dyjital Kamaras have got some kinda thru the lens thingy that does exposhers I kud be rong tho

John N Loc: HP14 3QF Stokenchurch, UK

Use the widest setting on all the lenses to find maximum polarisation. Then zoom to what you require. I don't suppose you'll have just the one thread start, or that the thread start will be on the same position on all of the lenses (but happy to be told otherwise).

jerryc41 Loc: Catskill Mts of NY

I like CPLs, and I like Xume magnetic adapters for filters. I'm sure you'll have a fantastic trip. Enjoy the experience and let photography be a sideline.

rmalarz Loc: Tempe, Arizona

Well stated.
--Bob

billnikon Loc: Pennsylvania/Ohio/Florida/Maui/Oregon/Vermont

Generally speaking, a Polarizer is used on my wides cause I want that sky blue, really blue, and it adds to fall leaves and generally saturates everything that is red, green, yellow, or blue.
I generally want my telephoto's to reach out toward a specific object, as such, I have found no need for a polarizer on a telephoto, and, I like speed in my telephoto's, anything that would slow them down is not Advantageous to me.