Good Morning,
I downloaded some images last night, portraits using hot lights. (I can't post, the model was underage and I don't have a release)

On the camera screen many of the photos seemed perfectly exposed. When I downloaded into light room on my laptop, I had to add at least one stop, sometimes more to get them light enough to see. I am using a Nikon 5300 and a Tamron 18-400 mm lens. I shoot in raw, the white balance was incandescent, picture control standard, color space adobe, ISO 500.

I am wondering if it is the adobe color space, my monitor, the hot lights......I have never run into this problem before and I would love to understand what is happening and any insight into the differences between what I see on the camera monitor and my computer.

Thank you .

Good Morning,
I downloaded some images last night, portraits using hot lights. (I can't post, the model was underage and I don't have a release)

On the camera screen many of the photos seemed perfectly exposed. When I downloaded into light room on my laptop, I had to add at least one stop, sometimes more to get them light enough to see. I am using a Nikon 5300 and a Tamron 18-400 mm lens. I shoot in raw, the white balance was incandescent, picture control standard, color space adobe, ISO 500.

I am wondering if it is the adobe color space, my monitor, the hot lights......I have never run into this problem before and I would love to understand what is happening and any insight into the differences between what I see on the camera monitor and my computer.

Thank you .

Please note right now I'm giving Burk the "I'm not worthy" bow but having also been in the school picture business and training hundreds of people without the ability to provide calibrated light meters to every photographer I came to use the following SIMPLE method with excellent results. Take a small (2-3 inch) piece of white paper, hold it directly in front of a test subject's face and purposely overexpose with the camera highlight indicator set to ON. Then reduce aperture or flash power in 1/3 stop increments. When the paper stops blinking, stop down an additional 1/3 stop. Once this is achieved you will have consistent Jpeg images without the need for post processing adjustment. This can be done in any fixed lighting situation in the studio or available light. The only variable is the color and density of the white paper. We were able to use a constant "camera card" which was part of the photographers paperwork. The back side of a Gray Card is a consistent white that can be used as well. Ratio lighting can be achieved by setting the camera aperture to the required light output and adjusting power independently with the white card in place.

... you have to be careful .... if you're photographing
low key or high key subject matter.

A correct exposure of a low key subject will have a
histogram skewed far to the left, because only a few
tones define the subject. ...........

If you decrease exposure of a high key subject much
below that of a normally exposed gray card, you may
dull the background that you spent so much time
lighting evenly to render it just barely white.

A histogram does not indicate correct exposure. It
just tells you the *relative* distribution of tones in
the image.

............