ole sarg Loc: south florida

You are shooting at 2.8 and should be at least at 5.6. You have no depth of field.

polonois Loc: Lancaster County,PA.

I see very little depth of field. I actually don't see anything in sharp focus.
I would re-shoot in aperture priority at F8.0, ISO 100 use a tripod if the shutter speed falls below 1/100. Re-post the results.

letmedance Loc: Walnut, Ca.

looking at the necklace i see obvious shake on the second and third photos when viewed at 200%.

frankraney Loc: Clovis, Ca.

The first two, the necklace is sharp. That would Indedicate front focus problem, or f-stop to open. The third one looks like camera shake.

First i would redo the photos at a higher f- stop, and maybe more distance from you to her. It could also be a dof problem.

A quick way to check focus, use a tripod. Set up an odd number of batteries (same size), say 5 or 7 at a 45 degree angle to the cameraand the text on the batteries facing the camera. Focus on the center one. Then check the results. If it is sharp in the closer battery, it is front focusing. And visa versa for the one on back. I would do this at several different lens mm.... also set the camera at base iso.

I am having problems with a new lens and have to do this myself. Unfortunately l will not be able to fix the problem.....i believe you can. I believe the 80d has a micro focus adjustment for lenses.

bpulv Loc: Buena Park, CA

Have you calibrated you camera body to the lens you are using? An uncalibrated body/lens combination can result in front or back focus; the exact thing you may be describing. Take a look at this video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=52fBIp4BI84

epd1947

You left out some key information (and I'm assuming here that you are not experiencing an issue with a lens that is a bit out of kilter - either front or back focusing and in need of adjustment) - what was your focal length, aperture and shutter speed for each image? If using a relatively long focal length at a wide aperture your depth of field becomes rather restricted - which is beneficial in terms of creating an out of focus background - but can also create the sort of issues you are describing here. Once your camera locks focus, if either you or your model moves even a fraction of an inch forward or backward it can take the edge off the sharpness. One solution - don't shoot wide open - stop down a bit to give yourself a bit more latitude on dof. If your model is fairly far from the background you should still get a good deal of background blur not too far afield from what you have here. Camera shake can also be an issue - from what I can tell here it doesn't look like that - what was your shutter speed? How steady are you generally in hand holding a camera? Maybe eliminate that variable by re-doing the shots but with your camera on a tripod.

JBGLADSTONE Loc: Oregon

I am an old forgetful guy. Anyway, a few days ago I was taking photos of a soccer game. When I realized I did not have my focus box centered in the viewfinder. I shifted the box to the center of the LCD. Bam, my 80D and Tamron 70-300 were producing in focus pictures. But also made sure the viewfinder eye view had the box centered and no it was not. I just pressed the dial next the LCD screen to the left then up to center.

amfoto1 Loc: San Jose, Calif. USA

Your 1st image is pretty darned good.... Only very slightly out. It was shot at 1/640.

The 2nd and 3rd images are the worse (least sharp)... #2nd was shot at 1/1600 shutter speed... While #3 was again shot at 1/640.

These shutter speeds should be plenty fast to prevent any camera shake blur, regardless of focal length.

However, I noted that the 1st (and "best") image was shot at 48mm focal length, while the other two ("worse) both were shot at 70mm.

All three images were shot at f/2.8... wide open. Stopping down would have helped, but then your background would have been less blurred.

Have you calibrated the lens to your camera? You can either use your 80D's built in Micro Focus Adjustment feature, or Tamron's Tap In Module. 80D's MFA allows two adjustment with a zoom (at 24mm and 70mm, in this case) and can be done manually or automated using a software such as Reikan FoCal. Tamron's Tap-In Module allows you to fine tune focus at four different focal lengths with the 24-70mm G2 (24mm, 35mm, 50mm & 70mm).

Do you have a "protection" filter on the lens? There's some "ghosting" in both the images shot at 70mm setting images (look at the necklace). Perhaps it's an effect of the lens when it's slightly out of focus... or a filter might have accentuated. If you have filter on the lens, try some shots without.

In his review of the Tammy 24-70 VC G2, Bryan Carnathan at the-digital-picture.com noted some front focusing when using individual focus points other than the center one... had his best focus accuraccy limiting to using just the center point (he was testing on a 5Ds-R, which uses a different AF system than 80D). Bryan also mentioned that he ended up testing two different copies of the lens and saw slightly better AF performance in one (Micro Focus Adjustment can help with copy variations like these... as can Tamron's own "Tap In Module" calibration).

In part, it might just be the difference between a $1200 third party lens and a $1900 OEM lens. You can compare highly magnified test shots done with the Tammy G2 versus the Canon 24-70 II here: https://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/ISO-12233-Sample-Crops.aspx?Lens=1144&Camera=979&FLI=0&API=0&LensComp=787&Sample=0&CameraComp=979&FLIComp=0&APIComp=0 Note that the tests are done with a 50MP, full frame 5Ds-R... which is really "tough" on lenses. Using them on your APS-C camera crops away the softer corners you'll see there, particularly in the wide open examples. (Note: you can change to see test shots done with an APS-C 7D Mark II, if you wish, though it's 20MP resolution is a bit lower than your 80D's 24MP.)

Delderby Loc: Derby UK

Just for you here is my post on page 1:
Your settings - Shutter speed 1/1600 - F2.8 - 70mm

Shutter speed fast enough - how good is your Tamron at full length? and F2.8 does not give you much DOF.

Perhaps slow shutter to 1/800 and close aperture two stops. Maybe compensate exposure? Pretty Girl!

jak86094

#1 looks pretty sharp. The last two are not. Looks like camera shake mostly. Besides testing on a tripod, take some shots at a really high shutter speed. Even if the noise is noticeable, you should be able to tell if shots are sharper. If camera shake has blurred your shots, you should see sharper photos with the high shutter speed. God luck!

baygolf Loc: DMV

If you have a filter on your lens take it off and take some more pictures.

Bipod

Three possibilities:
* camera shake
* defocus
* lack of sharpness

To determine which is the cause will require some experimenting, as others have suggested.

1. Reshoot the original scene at f/2.8 but using a heavy, rigid tripod, mirror lockup and wireless
release to eliminate camera shake, If the result is sharp, you're done.

If not, that leaves two possibilities: defocus or lack of sharpness. Unfortunately, your subject doesn't
contain enough depth to tell whether or not any plane is in focus.

So I'd suggest:
2. Using the tripod, shoot a wall or fence at a 45 degree angle with the same f/2.8 aperture and in similar light.
If something is sharp, you know the problem is focusing (AF), not the lens sharpness. If nothing in the
frame is sharp. then the problem is sharpness.

Possibility A: SHARPNESS.. If lack of sharpness is the problem, try:
3a. Shooting the original scene using a tripod at the lenses sharpest aperature: f/5.6.

Zoom lenses at their widest aperature are not renown for being sharp. It's just possible
that what you are seeing is the best this lens can do (althought the pictures Ken Rockwell
took with it look sharper -- but may be at a different focal length setting -- it's hard to tell).

Possibility B: FOCUS: the Canon EOS 80D has a "45-point all cross-type AF system".
A footnote discloses: "The number of AF points, cross-type AF points and Dual cross-type
AF points vary depending on the lens used."

I'm no AF expert, but my understanding is that phase detection AF works like a rangefinder,
with the diameter of the lens serving as the base of the triangle. So the bigger the lens and
the larger the aperture, the more accurate the AF can be (all else being equal). I can't
find the diameter of the front element in the Tamron specs, but the filter ring is 88 mm,
which is quite large. So at f/2.8, AF should be very accurate (if its working).

But those photos were taken in partial shade. Phase detection AF works better with
high local contrast (a product of subject and light).

Also, using spot focusing mode reduces the number of AF points.

So if the problem is focusing, I would try:
3b. Shooting the orignal scene with tripood at f/2.8, but don't spot focus.
4b.. Wait for more direct sun, then shoot the scene again with tripod
and spot focus at f/2.8 (and a higher shutter speed).
5b. Shooting a subject with high local constrast (e.g., a white picketfence or
checkboard) with tripod at f/2.8.

Hope this isn't too overwhealming. Please let us know what you find out.
Good luck!

Delderby Loc: Derby UK

If 1/1600 is not a "really high shutter speed" what is?

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

One suggestion comes to mind. If you are in continuous servo AF mode, try using back button focus and disable focusing on half press of the shutter. Focus on an eye, then release the button, recompose (if necessary) and take the shot. From time to time I see something that resembles slight focus hunting while in the middle of an exposure - the result is that it looks sharp, but there is a very slight ghost image upon close examination.

If you are not shooting raw, then you may want to try that. I find that in camera sharpening settings are not all that great.

Lastly, test your camera with a static subject on a steady tripod. If you are having hardware related focusing problems, you will see them better. And test all apertures from wide open to F11, and your favorite distances.

gordnanaimo Loc: Vancouver Island

I would adjust my depth of field f8-f11 and make sure you are in spot focus and not average focus. Budda Bing. Focus on the eyes too.