DaveC1 wrote:
Anyone got any tricks for storage of lenses? I'm not talking transport here just storage in house.
I thought about a wine box but with most I've seen the dividers seem too thin, to my way of thinking.
Before we can talk about
how, we have to talk about
where. Storage requirements
vary somewhat depending on the climate and storage location.
Some
bad places to store lenses or cameras: car trunks, unheated garages,
storage containers that are not climate-controlled.
As food labels are fond of saying, "store in a cool, dry place". Heat speeds up
oxidation of lubricants and rubber parts (and is bad for film in film cameras).
Moisture promotes rust, corrosion and (worst of all) fungus growth. The lower
the relative humidity, the better: Unfortunately, in some climates in some
seasons of the year, cool and dry may be difficult to achieve.
In drier areas, a cool closet in a heated house can work fine. The lens container
need only protect the lens from dust and mechanical damage. Closets that
have an outside wall should be avoided, as condensation is possible.
In a humid climate, an effort should be made to find a cool, dry environment.
One option is a closet or room in a part of the house that is kept heated above
outside temperature (reducing humidity). But in a tropical or temperate
coastal environment, this may not be possible.
One option is to store lenses in a sealed plastic container along with a bag of
dessicant (i.e., silica gel). Food strorage containers with an air-tight seal are ideal.
I store all my lenses in round containers and my camers in square ones. . (But
without the dessicant, an air-tight container is a bad idea -- moisture may become
trapped inside.) The dessicant will need to be replaced or "recharged" periodically--
see below.
My reason for using separate containers is the old "don't put all your eggs in
one basket."
Storage recommendations are in addition to the usual precautions:
* Never take a valuable lens or camera out in the rain
* Never put a lens away wet or damp
* Before bringing a cold lens or camera inside, wrap it in air-tight plastic bag--
after it warms up (in a half-hour or so) remove the bag. This will prevenr
condensation from forming.
Some web sites say that too low humidity is bad for lenses and cameras:
https://www.beyondphototips.com/humidity-fungus-and-cameras-problems-solutions/But this is incorrect: there is no water in a lens or camera. Evaporation and aging of
lubricants is based on temperature and exposure to oxygen--they are oil-based and
do not contain water.
The most common desicant is silica gel. It is available in two forms (clear or
blue) and two packagings (loose or in packets). Packets are most convenient.
The blue granuals are "indicating": as they absorb moisture they start to
turn pink. This is very handy. For a larger container, you can include one indicator
packet with a larger non-indicator packet, and simply renew both when the little
packet turns pink.
Dessicant has to be renewed periodically. One way is to simply replace them.
Another way is to "recharge" them by drying in an oven. Temperature is crucial:
Free-flowing silca gel granuals: 300 F for 1.5 hours
Silca gel packets: 245 F for 24 hours
https://sciencing.com/dry-desiccant-5939321.htmlOxygen absorber packets are sold for packaging certain food products (e.g., seaweed).
Included along with a dessicant packet with a lens or camera in a air-tight container,
they can totally prevent rust and most corrosion, and greatly increase the life of rubber
and pastic camera parts (including door light seals). However, this is only worth
doing if the item is going to be stored for a long time, since the packets are quickly
exhausted and cannot be recharged.
The most common "oxygen getter" material is sodium sulfite (a favorite ingredient in
developers). The sodium sulf
ite slowly combines with O2 gas to form sodium
sulf
ate.
And it goes without saying that the battery should be removed and the shutter released
before long-term storage of any camera.