dino21 Loc: McAllen, TX

I have bought a new Sigma 100 -400 lens and sigma calibration dock and hope someone can answer a few questions. I have a Nikon D7200.

1) I understand the calibration method for the new Sigma using the Calibration dock but that just calibrates the lens itself correct? Do I then have to calibrate it "in camera" using the adjustment in the Nikon itself?

2) I also have a Tokina 11-20 lens, a 50 mm 2.8 Prime and a 18-180 "kit" zoom. Should these be calibrated also? If so, I assume they are all calibrated "in camera" as of course the calibration docking is only for the sigma lens correct?

Any help would be appreciated.

Bultaco Loc: Aiken, SC

Correct, in camera can be tricky on zooms. If you adjust for 18 it may soften it at 180.

baygolf Loc: DMV

I use FoCal 2 software to micro adjust my lenses, and this software applies the adjustment to the camera body. I also have the Tamron Tap-In console, which allows you to apply the adjustments to directly to the lens. To do this with FoCal you would record the micro adjust value set in the camera and then clear that value out. Next, you would just enter that value into the console.

1. I found if you have multiple camera bodies then it's best to apply the adjustment to the camera body. If you have just one camera I would apply the adjustment to the lens.

2. Yes, I feel that all lenses should be micro adjusted. Yes, the dock is only for sigma lens.

baygolf Loc: DMV

I use FoCal 2 software to micro adjust my lenses, and this software applies the adjustment to the camera body. I also have the Tamron Tap-In console, which allows you to apply the adjustments to directly to the lens. To do this with FoCal you would record the micro adjust value set in the camera and then clear that value out. Next, you would just enter that value into the console.

1. I found if you have multiple camera bodies then it's best to apply the adjustment to the camera body. If you have just one camera I would apply the adjustment to the lens.

2. Yes, I feel that all lenses should be micro adjusted. Yes, the dock is only for sigma lens.

dino21 Loc: McAllen, TX

Thanks so much for the info. One last stupid question if I may. After I have gone into my Nikon D7200 body and done the adjusting for the other lenses, do I need to keep the AF fine tune selection "on" from then on or is that only for when one is actually doing the fine tune adjusting?

bpulv Loc: Buena Park, CA

Always calibrate a new lens in the camera body. Every lens, body and every other device with mechanical parts are built with tolerances. It is impossible to make every component part and, therefore every assembly of parts, absolutely the same; I.e., +/- 0.00000000000....% different from each other. So, for example, a given part might have a specification of 1" +/- 0.001" (1/1000"). If there are ten parts in the assembled device and each part has the same tolerance, the finished unit could be between 1.010" and 0.9" (1/100" and 9/10"). If you mate the two finished parts together, like a camera and lens, the dimensional difference could be anywhere from double to half that depending how the pluses and minuses algebraically combine.

As a result, every lens must be matched to your camera body if you want the full performance you paid for. Cameras and lenses bought together as a package (kit) are not calibrated one to another at the factory. So, if you do not calibrate the two devices together, your lens could either consistently front or back focus. On a zoom lens, the lens can be calibrated at one focal length and still be out at another.

Although I have no experience with Sigma lenses, I believe that their lens calibration is designed to compensate for lens optical and other aberrations and not to compensate for dimensional differences between specific camera and body tolerances.

TheoP Loc: Cape Town

I had a similar issue with my Sigma 150-600 C - it simply focused all over the show with my D750. The Sigma dock allows you to finetune the lens at around 5 -10 different settings ( Focal lenght and distance - eg 150mm at 5m, 10m, 20m etc and then at the same thing at 200mm etc etc. )

That sorted the lens it self. Then I also set it on my bodies ( D750 & D7500) as well. The bodies only allow to set for front & back focus on any focal length. Minor adj was required on the 2 bodies.

Now it is tack sharp.

The Nikon body stores the settings by lens.

I did not have similar issues with my Sigma 100-400 but I guess the same principle will apply.

baygolf Loc: DMV

Yes, keep it on.

dino21 Loc: McAllen, TX

Thank you all! You all have been very helpful.

NCMtnMan Loc: N. Fork New River, Ashe Co., NC

You figure out what the changes need to be at certain focal lengths, but you use the dock to make the adjustments on the lens, not in the camera. Try Googling fine focus Sigma zoom with docking station.

MauiMoto Loc: Hawaii

The goal of the calibration with the dock is to have accurate af at different focal length and distance combinations with 0 in camera tuning. You use the in camera values as half of the value in the sigma dock.

Strodav Loc: Houston, Tx

I have calibrated a few Tamron Zooms to my D7200 including an 18-400mm. I recommend buying a lens calibration target or build one. Just search for "lens calibration chart" on Amazon and you'll see 3 or 4 different ones there. Set the camera and lens on a tripod, A preferred mode wide open aperature, AF-S, image stabilization on the lens off, and you want to use AF not live view, fine tune off, best if you use a remote trigger. The table on the tap-in has spots for 24 different entries, 3 for distance .45m, 3m, infinity, and 8 for zoom, 18mm, 35mm, 50mm, 70mm, 100mm, 200mm, 300mm, 400mm. Pick one to start and set your camera up at that distance and zoom factor from you target so the target fills about 1/3 of the frame and take about 5 shots in AF by moving off of focus manually using the lens focus ring then pushing the shutter button 1/2 way to allow it to focus on its own then take the picture. Pull up the images in you PP software and look at the ruler to see if the focus is in front of, on, or behind the focus point. If on, you are good. If in front or in back, hook the lens up to the tap in and try moving 3 to 5 steps at a time to walk it in. May take a few iterations of shooting then analysis. Once its in, move to another point and repeat. Yes, it can take a long time if several points are off, but when you are done, you will have a lot of confidence in the lens on that camera. If you get a soft image, it will be technique or atmospherics and not the lens or camera. I have calibrated a few lenses and found points dead on and found points off.