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Aug 7, 2012 19:04:47   #
jtipps Loc: Dallas
 
Captain, I think you are one of the very best portrait photographers on the forum and I would certainly take your advise over mine. Seems I have better luck not direct lighting a background as a general rule. I have done it to achieve a certain look but normally the carry over light from the front light source is enough. Like most everything in life each person has his own thoughts on what works best for him. I have found that each good portrait photographer has his own "look" that he likes and is known by, yours is certainly great.
CaptainC wrote:
jtipps wrote:
I am not sure I agree with much of this. Unless you are using a green or blue screen I would not highlight the background. The main flash should be a little higher than the subject and on the exposed side of the face. Fill flash only as needed depending on what effect you are trying to get. IMO. I do agree on distancing the model from the back ground and using a hair light.


If you are going for the High Key look, you have to light the BG - by definition. For low key stuff, I would agree....maybe.
quote=jtipps I am not sure I agree with much of t... (show quote)

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Aug 7, 2012 19:07:11   #
jtipps Loc: Dallas
 
Denise, are you saying you use black all the time? I love it on some but it does not work on a lot of models, or at least that is what I have found.
Denisedancer wrote:
I'm also new to this and learning but a couple of things I did learn is - your shutter speed is too slow, should be above 1/60sec, you might be on tripod, but what about your subject having to sit so perfectly still. You also need a black velvet background. Most important that has already been mentioned is getting the catch lights in the eyes. Its the first thing you notice in a portrait. Good luck.

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Aug 7, 2012 22:36:51   #
Wendy2 Loc: California
 
Captain C, how many lights did you use on the high key photo?
And did you light the background.

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Aug 7, 2012 23:44:20   #
CaptainC Loc: Colorado, south of Denver
 
Wendy2 wrote:
Captain C, how many lights did you use on the high key photo?
And did you light the background.


Three. Two White Lightning units to illuminate the BG. Those were fired into umbrellas. The units should be aimed at the opposite side of the white - that keeps exposure pretty even across the white. That metered f11.
Subject lit by one Alien Bee fired into a HUGE Paul Buff 84" PLM umbrella with diffusion. The PLM is directly over the camera. The PLM metered f8 at the subject.

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Aug 7, 2012 23:45:38   #
Wendy2 Loc: California
 
CaptainC wrote:
Wendy2 wrote:
Captain C, how many lights did you use on the high key photo?
And did you light the background.


Three. Two White Lightning units to illuminate the BG. Those were fired into umbrellas. The units should be aimed at the opposite side of the white - that keeps exposure pretty even across the white. That metered f11.
Subject lit by one Alien Bee fired into a HUGE Paul Buff 84" PLM umbrella with diffusion. The PLM is directly over the camera. The PLM metered f8 at the subject.
quote=Wendy2 Captain C, how many lights did you u... (show quote)


Thanks!

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Aug 7, 2012 23:51:28   #
william48 Loc: New Philadelphia,Ohio
 
Festina Lente wrote:
toptrainer wrote:
I am very new at photography, I am able to take good pictures outside, at parties, landscape etc. I am trying to get into taking portraits at my house and I am having trouble with the lighting. I have a Canon T3i, a Canon 430ex 2 Speed Light, a Canon 28-135 mm ultrasonic lens, a Canon 50MM lens, 2 lights with umbrellas with 45w 5500k 110v, and a back light (same bulb), a 10x12 backdrop with Black, Green and White material. I also have an off camera flash release and an extra umbrella with a silver inside and a black back. I should have everything I need but I cant get the lighting correct, maybe its the position of the lights ( are those lights bright enough?). The position of my flash, or the settings on my camera. If anyone can help with some good ideas I would really appreciate it. This picture info: 1/40 sec; f/5.6; ISO 100
I am very new at photography, I am able to take go... (show quote)
It is not easy to tell you exactly what to adjust without seeing your lighting arrangement.
Ultimately this can be as much art as science depending on the look you are seeking.
Some initial observations:
1) Move the back drop further back.
2) Avoid lighting the back drop directly
3) Your example photo seems a little over exposed to me.
4) Try using a larger f/stop (smaller number, (f/4.0) to help blur the background (eliminate folds and fabric texture)
5) Try using a light pointed at the back of your subjects head to provide some rim lighting.
6) Work with your fixed lighting (non strobe) first as it is generally easier to adjust and modify (unless you understand your strobe's manual settings and can dependably trigger it remotely.)
7) Experiment and experiment until you find the look YOU want and like. That is the best way to learn.

Good luck and keep on trying until you develop a style you like and can control.
quote=toptrainer I am very new at photography, I ... (show quote)


well written

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Aug 8, 2012 04:29:32   #
Festina Lente Loc: Florida & Missouri
 
toptrainer wrote:
OK thank you for the history lesson :-) but, I still need to know what light to buy. Does anybody know what I should get?
Sure!! That part is easy!
Get at least two Einsteins with all accessories, plus 2 light stands and large umbrella diffusers. I'll even let you borrow mine. The Einsteins are the best out there IMO.
See: http://www.paulcbuff.com/e640.php

But unless you first learn the basics using what you equipment have, you will just be wasting some really great equipment (and a couple grand).

Master one light, then slowly add lights one by one. Practice with ad hoc diffusers, they can dramatically affect the quality of light. Try various reflectors also (cheap and effective for several different looks).

Then post the images(s) you like best along with a diagram of your light setup in order to get the most useful suggestions from the most experienced UHHers.
We all benefit from that!!

If you do this, you will have learned far more than you can by reading this banter (CaptainC's suggestions exempted).

Heck, do it right and you may even get CaptainC to sing like Barry White. That's something we would all appreciate! :roll:

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Aug 8, 2012 13:42:17   #
bkyser Loc: Fly over country in Indiana
 
jtipps wrote:
I am not sure I agree with much of this. Unless you are using a green or blue screen I would not highlight the background. The main flash should be a little higher than the subject and on the exposed side of the face. Fill flash only as needed depending on what effect you are trying to get. IMO. I do agree on distancing the model from the back ground and using a hair light.


You need to check Captain C's web page before you disagree. I've been getting paid for photography for 30 years, and he's my hero.

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Aug 8, 2012 13:45:33   #
bkyser Loc: Fly over country in Indiana
 
toptrainer wrote:
OK thank you for the history lesson :-) but, I still need to know what light to buy. Does anybody know what I should get.
dpullum wrote:
GoofyNewfie wrote:
I think I hear Barry White.

and CaptainC for "Well...not THAT low."

Interesting isn't it that we all remember Barry White (1944 - 2003) for his ultra low voice. We have all heard of the horse whisperer; well little known is that Barry White was an Elephant whisperer. Barry White having a huge barrel like chest, resonating like elephants, surly went as low as 12 Hz more than 3 octaves below a typical man's voice. Long live his romantic music.

Back to the subject, it is threads like this one that are such great exchanges of practical wisdom of photographic how-to. I will copy down this one and add to my archive in doc file under... Photo light. Thank you TopTrainer for asking and the rest for your contributions of knowhow.
quote=GoofyNewfie I think I hear Barry White. /q... (show quote)
OK thank you for the history lesson :-) but, I st... (show quote)


On continuous lighting, you must check the socket to see what the maximum wattage bulb should be. I agree that there is enough light, just not being used quite properly yet. I prefer strobes, but that is because it's all I've used for years. (old Speedotron Brown system, hasn't failed me yet)

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Aug 8, 2012 13:47:31   #
GoofyNewfie Loc: Kansas City
 
bkyser: Speedotrons are great! Built like a tank (and weigh just as much).

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Aug 8, 2012 14:14:25   #
jtipps Loc: Dallas
 
I don't disagree, he is really good.
bkyser wrote:
jtipps wrote:
I am not sure I agree with much of this. Unless you are using a green or blue screen I would not highlight the background. The main flash should be a little higher than the subject and on the exposed side of the face. Fill flash only as needed depending on what effect you are trying to get. IMO. I do agree on distancing the model from the back ground and using a hair light.


You need to check Captain C's web page before you disagree. I've been getting paid for photography for 30 years, and he's my hero.
quote=jtipps I am not sure I agree with much of t... (show quote)

Reply
 
 
Aug 8, 2012 15:15:06   #
dpullum Loc: Tampa Florida
 
BKYSER STATED "On continuous lighting, you must check the socket to see what the maximum wattage bulb should be."
In reply I would say...When pushing the power to the max with many bulbs etc it is best to check the wattage of each. Photos taken just before the studio burned down may be exciting,,, but...
For $22 one can purchase a Kill-O-watt meter to be safe.

Amps x Volts = Watts... so Amps = Watts/Volts (110 usually) old wiring may be 10 amps, semi modern is 15 amps and eventually some locations require 20 amp.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882715001

The following reference takes in consideration the gage and the length of the extension cord.
http://www.machinetoolhelp.com/misc/toolsdata/extensioncordlengths.html

While I am learning valuable lesions on lighting, I may as well contribute something I know... Thank you all again for sharing your knowledge. As Barry white would say to all... I love ya baby!

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Aug 8, 2012 21:37:18   #
jeffsutain Loc: Staten Island NY
 
You need to buy a light meter witch will tell you how to set your camera setting

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Aug 8, 2012 22:04:56   #
toptrainer Loc: Wellington
 
I wish I could, that's the one thing I can't afford right now.
jeffsutain wrote:
You need to buy a light meter witch will tell you how to set your camera setting

Reply
Aug 9, 2012 21:08:10   #
toptrainer Loc: Wellington
 
OK, here is a picture of my wife. with a lokey
Festina Lente wrote:
toptrainer wrote:
OK thank you for the history lesson :-) but, I still need to know what light to buy. Does anybody know what I should get?
Sure!! That part is easy!
Get at least two Einsteins with all accessories, plus 2 light stands and large umbrella diffusers. I'll even let you borrow mine. The Einsteins are the best out there IMO.
See: http://www.paulcbuff.com/e640.php

But unless you first learn the basics using what you equipment have, you will just be wasting some really great equipment (and a couple grand).

Master one light, then slowly add lights one by one. Practice with ad hoc diffusers, they can dramatically affect the quality of light. Try various reflectors also (cheap and effective for several different looks).

Then post the images(s) you like best along with a diagram of your light setup in order to get the most useful suggestions from the most experienced UHHers.
We all benefit from that!!

If you do this, you will have learned far more than you can by reading this banter (CaptainC's suggestions exempted).

Heck, do it right and you may even get CaptainC to sing like Barry White. That's something we would all appreciate! :roll:
quote=toptrainer OK thank you for the history les... (show quote)



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