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2.8 Lens Question
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Aug 17, 2018 08:24:29   #
ELNikkor
 
Get the 70-200 2.8 if you shoot at night under stadium lights, or in the gym, and shoot wide open! You've paid for those extra f-stops, so use them.

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Aug 17, 2018 09:06:02   #
beerhunter13 Loc: Southern Ontario, Canada
 
The latest Sigma 120 - 300mm f/2.8 is an amazing lens at a good price. The weight is manageable for hiking and handheld shots.

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Aug 17, 2018 10:08:12   #
TriX Loc: Raleigh, NC
 
ELNikkor wrote:
Get the 70-200 2.8 if you shoot at night under stadium lights, or in the gym, and shoot wide open! You've paid for those extra f-stops, so use them.


Yep. Different venues will require different settings, but in the typical HS gym, I need a shutter speed of at least 1/250 to 1/500 (depending on the sport) to freeze the action, and that usually results in an ISO of 3200-6400 (and occasionally higher) with an aperture of f2.8 - f3.5. No way I could shoot at f5.6 (2 stops slower) without unacceptably compromising SS or ISO, and with a good AF system and careful use, not only do I not find DOF to be a problem, but it’s usually useful to isolate the subject (if that’s your goal).

At a seminar put on by the photographers of our local paper with each photographer lecturing on his specialty (sports, weddings, journalism, events, food/cooking & portraiture), the one lens every photographer had in his kit was a 70-200 f2.8.

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Aug 17, 2018 10:11:19   #
Kozan Loc: Trenton Tennessee
 
grberg wrote:
I shoot mostly grandkids sports with a d500 and an 18-300 3.5-5.6 Nikon lens. With good sunlight I can get some pretty sharp action pics (usually at f8 or so). However, in late afternoon light and under stadium lights using auto iso and f5.6 I get some acceptable but somewhat noisy pics. I’m considering investing in a 70-200 2.8 lens (probably the Tamron G2), but would like to know of anyone’s experience shooting action shots at f2.8 or f4. I’ve gotten pretty good at hitting my focus points using f5.6 to f8, but I wonder if I can at f2.8 or f4. Any advice would be appreciated.
I shoot mostly grandkids sports with a d500 and an... (show quote)


I use the Tamron 70-200 G2 with my D500 for baseball ( Jackson Generals AA team). I am amazed (yes, AMAZED) at how fast and accurate the focus is at f/2.8. In fact, I have been lately getting the outfielders catching the fly balls. Even at 100% magnification, the images are tack sharp. I use back-button focus (thank you Steve Perry) and the lens can focus on any base or fielder. The only problem I have is getting so caught up in the game, I forget to shoot!!

I think you'll love this lens. It's almost my walk around lens. I keep it on my D500 most of the time.

KOZAN

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Aug 17, 2018 10:37:16   #
Mark7S
 
I am using an older Sigma 70-200 2.8 with great results - have a 1.4x and 2x (don't use the 2X). If I were to buy now it would be the Tamron 70-200 G2. Just bought the Tamron 150-600G2. shoot mostly wildlife and landscape (Nikon 10-24). Travel lens is the Nikon 18-200. Agree shoot RAW to be able to recover light. If you are doing any sports or wildlife the 70-200 min is a must. With Stadium lighting you may have to adjust the white balance.
succes!

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Aug 17, 2018 12:30:24   #
gwilliams6
 
burkphoto wrote:
Just do it. Working with a 70-200 on a D500 is like working with a 135-300 on a full frame. There's a lot of magnification! You'll need a fast shutter speed for action, at least 1/320, even with VC on (which helps ONLY with camera shake, not subject motion blur).

f/2.8 can be the difference between manageable exposure and a missed opportunity, or between reducible noise and unacceptable quality loss. At f/5.6, on the 18-300, you need an ISO two stops faster, or a shutter speed two stops slower (longer).

The other reason to use a fixed aperture, 70-200mm f/2.8 zoom is optical performance. A "3X" zoom (24-70, 70-200) is usually MUCH sharper and performs better, overall, than a super-long-throw zoom. The 70-200 range is used by most professionals, often wide open, for shallow depth of field and subject isolation.

The 18-300 lenses are really made for travel use, outdoors, in bright light, where you can stop down to f/8 or f/11. Everything about them is a compromise to save space, save weight, travel light, and not have to change lenses. You sacrifice low light performance and optical excellence for practicality and weight savings.
Just do it. Working with a 70-200 on a D500 is lik... (show quote)


Another excellent post from you Burkphoto, I don't need to add anything. Cheers

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Aug 17, 2018 12:58:58   #
bull drink water Loc: pontiac mi.
 
the problem with a fast lens will always be a short DOF. what the world needs and wants, is a 70-200mm or a 70-300mm f 1.4 zoom. then we could shoot at f2.8 or f3.5 and get a better DOF. it would be so mice. if it could be designed it would be big and expensive as hell. ok so i'm in fantasy land.

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Aug 17, 2018 13:56:21   #
Notorious T.O.D. Loc: Harrisburg, North Carolina
 
F/2.8 is f/2.8 is it not...

bull drink water wrote:
the problem with a fast lens will always be a short DOF. what the world needs and wants, is a 70-200mm or a 70-300mm f 1.4 zoom. then we could shoot at f2.8 or f3.5 and get a better DOF. it would be so mice. if it could be designed it would be big and expensive as hell. ok so i'm in fantasy land.

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Aug 17, 2018 15:13:11   #
TriX Loc: Raleigh, NC
 
bull drink water wrote:
the problem with a fast lens will always be a short DOF. what the world needs and wants, is a 70-200mm or a 70-300mm f 1.4 zoom. then we could shoot at f2.8 or f3.5 and get a better DOF. it would be so mice. if it could be designed it would be big and expensive as hell. ok so i'm in fantasy land.


The DOF would be the same (at equivalent FLs) regardless as to whether it was a 1.4 lens stopped down to f2.8 or a f2.8 lens wide open, but fast lenses are often a nice option to have available when needed.

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Aug 17, 2018 16:12:56   #
fstoprookie Loc: Central Valley of California
 
I have shot my f2.8 Nikon for night High School Football games the past 3 years with excellent Results. You can shoot an f4 but your ISO will be jacked up a little. I would recommend renting the lens 1st and see if the f4 or the f2.8 gives you the results you are looking for, and the price that fits your budget.



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Aug 17, 2018 16:51:34   #
pila
 
[quote=grberg]I shoot mostly grandkids sports with a d500 and an 18-300 3.5-5.6 Nikon lens. With good sunlight I can get some pretty sharp action pics (usually at f8 or so). However, in late afternoon light and under stadium lights using auto iso and f5.6 I get some acceptable but somewhat noisy pics. I’m considering investing in a 70-200 2.8 lens (probably the Tamron G2), but would like to know of anyone’s experience shooting action shots at f2.8 or f4. I’ve gotten pretty good at hitting my focus points using f5.6 to f8, but I wonder if I can at f2.8 or f4. Any advice would be appreciated.[/quote
Just bought a Tamron 70-210 f4.0 and use with the D500. I am in love.

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Aug 17, 2018 17:01:32   #
gwilliams6
 
Your lens will usually autofocus quicker and more accurately at a wider aperture, like f4 or 2.8, as there is more light sent to the focus sensor. I know this from over 40 years of shooting sports from school to pro level.

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Aug 17, 2018 17:39:01   #
imagemeister Loc: mid east Florida
 
grberg wrote:
I shoot mostly grandkids sports with a d500 and an 18-300 3.5-5.6 Nikon lens. With good sunlight I can get some pretty sharp action pics (usually at f8 or so). However, in late afternoon light and under stadium lights using auto iso and f5.6 I get some acceptable but somewhat noisy pics. I’m considering investing in a 70-200 2.8 lens (probably the Tamron G2), but would like to know of anyone’s experience shooting action shots at f2.8 or f4. I’ve gotten pretty good at hitting my focus points using f5.6 to f8, but I wonder if I can at f2.8 or f4. Any advice would be appreciated.
I shoot mostly grandkids sports with a d500 and an... (show quote)


If you expect your focus point to be in focus @ f2.8 you must do some focus testing/calibration of the lens to your D500 ! After successfully doing that, make sure you have appropriate shutter speed - the closer you zoom - the MORE shutter speed.

Single point AF will be your most accurate in lower light - IF you can control it properly/accurately !

..

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Aug 17, 2018 18:00:15   #
pila
 
gwilliams6 wrote:
Your lens will usually autofocus quicker and more accurately at a wider aperture, like f4 or 2.8, as there is more light sent to the focus sensor. I know this from over 40 years of shooting sports from school to pro level.

Interesting. Makes sense. Can you comment on the sensor of the D500?

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Aug 17, 2018 18:08:27   #
pila
 
imagemeister wrote:
If you expect your focus point to be in focus @ f2.8 you must do some focus testing/calibration of the lens to your D500 ! After successfully doing that, make sure you have appropriate shutter speed - the closer you zoom - the MORE shutter speed.

Single point AF will be your most accurate in lower light - IF you can control it properly/accurately !
I will experiment. Have you tried any FF lenses with Nikon 500? Is their a relationship between the 500’s crop sensor and the lens?

..
If you expect your focus point to be in focus @ f2... (show quote)

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