What neutral density filters strengths are a good start off point for long exposures of water and such. I have a variable nd of 2 to 8 but would like something a bit more precise. Also looking not to break the bank. Looking for a 77mm filter and use them on my 52mm threaded lenses also.
I also have the LEE foundation kit that I have set up for my 52mm thread lenses. What filters would work with this holder?
Thanks in advance, looking to get these before I leave for my trip in two weeks.
For Lee rectangular filters, you cannot go wrong with the 10X or 6X Big and Little Stoppers. For the rest, a 3x and 6x ND Graduated
MrGNY wrote:
What neutral density filters strengths are a good start off point for long exposures of water and such. I have a variable nd of 2 to 8 but would like something a bit more precise. Also looking not to break the bank. Looking for a 77mm filter and use them on my 52mm threaded lenses also.
I also have the LEE foundation kit that I have set up for my 52mm thread lenses. What filters would work with this holder?
Thanks in advance, looking to get these before I leave for my trip in two weeks.
What neutral density filters strengths are a good ... (
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Breakthrough Technology (BP) has two great free downloads on long exposure photography and ND filters. BP makes excellent mid priced filters and are highly recommended here on UHH. The downloads are great resources even if you don't buy a BP filter.
https://breakthrough.photography/
I use 3-stop and 4-stop ND filters. They're strong enough and the camera has no problem with autofocus. I use the Hoya Pro-1 series filters. They have coatings that are optimized for digital.
billnikon
Loc: Pennsylvania/Ohio/Florida/Maui/Oregon/Vermont
MrGNY wrote:
What neutral density filters strengths are a good start off point for long exposures of water and such. I have a variable nd of 2 to 8 but would like something a bit more precise. Also looking not to break the bank. Looking for a 77mm filter and use them on my 52mm threaded lenses also.
I also have the LEE foundation kit that I have set up for my 52mm thread lenses. What filters would work with this holder?
Thanks in advance, looking to get these before I leave for my trip in two weeks.
What neutral density filters strengths are a good ... (
show quote)
I use a 10 or in LEE terms it is know as the BIG STOPPER. I like it cause it is easy for me to determine exposures. If my exposure is going to be 1/30 sec at f8 then I know my exposure with ND 10 attached will be 30 seconds at f8.
Make sure your eyepiece is covered or else bad things will happen to your images.
I have a Breakthrough 3 and 6 that when stacked will give me 9. I also have Lee's in some different stops and graduations. I have everything sized for my biggest lens and use step rings for smaller lenses.
My personal experience in using both Lee and Breakthrough is that Lee has some color cast while Breakthrough does not.
Bill
I think 2 and 4 stop filters are useful for general photography or video in bright light. 10( or perhaps greater in bright light ) is useful to capture motion. Just remember that with a 10 stop filter you will have to compose/focus without the filter on the camera. It is too dark to see.
Here is a photo taken on a very windy day using a 10 stop filter.
aflundi wrote:
What do you mean by more precise?
Meaning that the variable you are not sure what the marks correlate to as far as x amount of stops. I know the straight up nd Filter will have a little variance in exposure.
rgrenaderphoto wrote:
For Lee rectangular filters, you cannot go wrong with the 10X or 6X Big and Little Stoppers. For the rest, a 3x and 6x ND Graduated
I have looked at these and may go this way. Everything has pos and cons. The con is light leakage with slide ins.
fetzler wrote:
....... Just remember that with a 10 stop filter you will have to compose/focus without the filter on the camera. It is too dark to see.
You're assuming the camera is one of those old fashioned DSLR things, rather than a more modern mirrorless.
MrGNY wrote:
What neutral density filters strengths are a good start off point for long exposures of water and such. I have a variable nd of 2 to 8 but would like something a bit more precise. Also looking not to break the bank. Looking for a 77mm filter and use them on my 52mm threaded lenses also.
I also have the LEE foundation kit that I have set up for my 52mm thread lenses. What filters would work with this holder?
Thanks in advance, looking to get these before I leave for my trip in two weeks.
What neutral density filters strengths are a good ... (
show quote)
Again ND filters are only needed to reduce the light going into a lens. Try using a lower ISO setting first before putting any glass in front of the lens. Try ISO under 100 if possible. keeping your f stop and at say f11 or f16 or higher if you can go that high on the lens of choice. Your shutter speed will then drop to a low number so low you will need a tripod to steady the shot. Too many photographers mistakenly think ND filters are for waterfall shots when the ND filter is just in case there is too much light and the camera can no longer accept a lower ISO than it already has. Some ND filters, I have read here on UHH, will cause color shifts in an image. Best method is to not use auto ISO which is probably why people use ND filters. If still in auto ISO the ND will raise the ISO. Old school was always set ISO for the film you are using which in film days was for Kodachrome about ISO 54 and for standard color film was usually ISO 100. So in digital we can start at ISO 50 then adjust your f stop for f16 or higher if possible which should put your shutter speed under a 15th of a second or possibly lower depends on the amount of daylight available. If too much daylight wait for the sun to start setting. Then and only then if you want a slower shutter use an ND filter with the realization that the ND might cause a color shift that hopefully the lab printing the shot will be able to correct for. In digital its really the same method. Use an ND only if you have to and buy a set of three of them, each one being 1 f stop and the next being 2 f stops and the third one being 3 f stops, and only buy them from a quality manufacturer who promises no color shift.
fetzler wrote:
...Just remember that with a 10 stop filter you will have to compose/focus without the filter on the camera. It is too dark to see...
True.... when trying to use an optical viewfinder.
Plus there's a good chance there won't be enough light for autofocus to work, either.
A possible solution with a DSLR is to use Live View along with Exposure Simulation. That very similar to using the electronic viewfinder of a mirrorless camera... except with the DSLR and Live View, many allow you to zoom in to 10X to check manual focus accuracy (actually, the mirrorless might have similar Live View functionality).
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