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Prints darker than I thought they would be
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Aug 2, 2018 22:52:21   #
E.L.. Shapiro Loc: Ottawa, Ontario Canada
 
Gene51 wrote:
Yes, you need to calibrate your monitor, but that's not the end. You also need to know what the output will be so you can set the white point accurately. For prints to display normally, you should set your white point to 80 cda/m² and if you are displaying for print competitions, you set the display to a brighter 120 cda/m².A brighter display will tend to get you to adjust the images a bit darker and that is why your prints are dark. Another factor will affect the brightness of the print is a high ambient light level in your editing space. It's best to edit in a darkened room for the most consistent results.
Yes, you need to calibrate your monitor, but that'... (show quote)


This idea very important point to factor in as well, that is, the light source under which you judge density and color. There are full spectrum light sources especially formulated for accurate rendition of color. The intensity of light must conform to certain standards as Gene pointed out. When I make prints for display, often times, I consider the lighting where they are going to be displayed and print accordingly.

The light level under which prints will be judged for competitions are usually specified, in foot candles, by the organization or association holding the competition.

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Aug 2, 2018 23:47:34   #
via the lens Loc: Northern California, near Yosemite NP
 
ppage wrote:
I don't print at all, I give it all to Costco. My prints come out somewhat darker than I see them on my monitor. I've heard about monitor calibration but I thought that was mainly for color correction. Do I need to calibrate my monitor? I also belong to Bay Photo but I haven't printed with them yet.

Thanks,


You might consider using Bay Photo and asking them to color correct, then if you don't like the result they are responsible. It appears that in some cases people do have trouble with prints turning out darker than what they saw on the screen. You most certainly should calibrate, even if you don't print. You can also obtain a ICC profile from the printer of your choice and that might help out, too. I print all of my own work 95% of the time and it always turns out spot on but it does take learning how to get it right.

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Aug 3, 2018 01:13:32   #
tdekany Loc: Oregon
 
sloscheider wrote:
I've found Mac monitors to be fairly accurate. I still use a Spyder to create a profile but there isn't much of a change. I also find, in general, IPS displays of any vendor are fairly accurate especially compared to older technologies.



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Aug 3, 2018 06:01:13   #
Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)
 
sloscheider wrote:
I've found Mac monitors to be fairly accurate. I still use a Spyder to create a profile but there isn't much of a change. I also find, in general, IPS displays of any vendor are fairly accurate especially compared to older technologies.


There is nothing special about Mac monitors - they are usually made by LG and are available for less money when not re-labeled. But more importantly, all modern displays will drift in their settings. Just because it looks ok when you open the box and plug it in, after a month color has shifted and it will need to be re-profiled. If you are less critical about color you can let it go 2 months. The fact that there is any change at all indicates that the changes are subtle and gradual, but they are there.

There is also nothing inherent in IPS technology that makes them any more accurate than older technologies - but they do have a wider viewing angle of view without significant changes, unlike older displays that required that you sit in the same position or risk seeing changes in illumination and color.

The big difference is the type and quality of the backlight/edge light. Fluorescent, LCD, LED are the common ones, with LED the most common these days. It is responsible for color/contrast/black and white level consistency across the field.

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Aug 3, 2018 06:40:26   #
delottphoto
 
I know that having the lab creating a profile for you is the best. However, I have learned from a fellow professional, that after I have corrected my image to the way I like it, for printing purposes, I use WHCC, I turn my monitor brightness down to 7% and then brighten the print accordingly. I send it off to WHCC and it comes back perfectly in 2 1/2 days. Remember to turn your monitor back to its "orignal brightness." Mine is 50%. My usual print making correction is 10 to 40% brightening. Remember when viewing the print on the monitor, in my case at 7%, you get back what you see!

www.whcc.com

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Aug 3, 2018 06:53:55   #
johnst1001a Loc: West Chester, Ohio
 
You can make the pictures lighter, but what might be a negative is that you will lose contrast.

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Aug 3, 2018 06:59:30   #
johnst1001a Loc: West Chester, Ohio
 
Watchout for variable room brightness too, and having your monitor change brightness settings automatically. Often times people do post processing in a room with windows. They work on photos during the week when in the winter there is no sunlight coming in through the windows, so the pictures might appear brighter, so they reduce the brightness of the photo then send them out for printing. The pictures come back dark. Same for room lights, you may get a different outcome having the lights on or off. The other thing that comes into play is what light are you using when you look at your pictures. If you get home after picking up your pictures and view them in a darker room, your pictures will lack the color, clarity, and brightness you expect. Put the picture under a lamp, it will look much better.

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Aug 3, 2018 07:00:28   #
delottphoto
 
Maybe I have lost contrast, but I do not see it! My paying clients are happy.

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Aug 3, 2018 07:06:44   #
Nikon1201
 
Try another vendor it may not be you at all.

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Aug 3, 2018 07:09:29   #
MikeT9
 
Lots of information coming back about what to do. If you want to keep it simple, when you’ve finished your adjustments open a levels adjustment layer and move the centre triangle to lift the lightness. Make a note of how much, about 1 to 1.1 and see how your prints come out. Of course monitor calibration is going to be the bees knees, at least then you know what’s on your screen is going to be constant. I find even then a slight lift on a levels adjustment layer helps. Good luck.

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Aug 3, 2018 07:29:14   #
elliott937 Loc: St. Louis
 
May I recommend Datacolor for any calibration needs. I've dealt with the, and actually corresponded with the man who wrote the software. His assistance, and the assistance of the company was top notch. Datacolor is outstanding.

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Aug 3, 2018 07:34:45   #
jeryh Loc: Oxfordshire UK
 
You will definitely benefit from monitor calibration- it will really surprise you once you have it done. You rarely get what you want from
print specialists unless you specify exactly how, and what you expect. That is why you have the calibration done.

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Aug 3, 2018 07:38:44   #
Dik
 
Original iMac 27" (2011) - I set brightness to one block brighter than half. Do my Potoshopping at that level and my Epson P800 prints are a good match. Also good Costco prints.
Working on files done before I learned this, I need to move the midpoint slider in Levels to +25 to get prints that match monitor brightness.

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Aug 3, 2018 08:07:55   #
applepie1951 Loc: Los Angeles,California
 
I send images in to Costco to have printed also and my Mac Book Pro is calibrated using Spyder 5 and a lot of times my prints come back darker then they appear on my monitor, so I tried sending them to another Lab and they come back perfect the problem is that the Lab charges $120 a print 4X6, so now I only use them for high paying jobs I do like weddings, Costco, will that’s just the way it is not all the time are they dark, now I just lighten my images lighter then I see them and they are better, costco is not a professional Lab with professional Lab Tech, as a matter of fact the lady that worker there told me that she use to work in the meat department and transferred to the photo department.

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Aug 3, 2018 08:19:29   #
johnpolizzi
 
I print a bit at home and had the same problem. If you like the colors you are getting, try reducing your monitor brightness to 50 to 60%. If you are producing good captures, buy good prints. Bay Photo, White Wall, and many other print services will produce top quality archival prints in many surfaces. Also the Canon Pixma pro 100 printer has a great rebate going and can print on thicker high quality papers. If your work is good, present it well.

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