safeman wrote:
Currently shoot Velvia 50 and various B&W films. Scan color to create digital images. B&W processed by commercial lab and Photoshop is my darkroom. By the way I need a new B&W lab, suggestions please. Monsoon season is coming to Arizona and I generally look for ominous, dark, contrasty storm images. With the color digital images should I PP in color first and then convert to B&W.
If you're scanning your Velvia yourself, I would suggest you try chromogenic B&W neg film. One I'm aware of is Ilford XP2. It's ISO 400 (there may be others, that's just the first one that comes to mind).
This B&W film is processed using C-41... same as much color neg film. Because of this, it also should solve your problem finding someone to develop it for you. There are a lot of places still doing C-41... maybe even a local lab.
But the main reason to use chromogenic B&W film is because it scans MUCH better than traditional silver halide negs. The prints you get back when you send it for processing tend to look a bit flat and low contrast, but don't worry about that, since you'll be scanning it anyway.
The problem with scanning silver halide B&W negs is the tiny silver crystals themselves... the image is basically made up of totally blocked light or completely clear emulsion that allows all light to pass through... tonal gradations in traditional darkroom enlargements are created by the inter-relationship of those two extremes. But when you scan an image instead of enlarging, the results tend to be less than ideal, since scanning is done at a "macro" scale (instead of a "projected" enlargement).
Chromogenic B&W doesn't use silver halide... instead it's made up of dyes, same as color neg and slide film. As a result, it has "true" tonal gradations that make for much better scans.
Actually, I love "real" B&W film... Fuji Neopan Acros is one of my favorites. If you wanted to continue to use it, I'd recommend you learn to process it yourself, since it's not hard and secondhand darkroom gear can be bought cheap these days. But if you want to work with silver halide B&W images digitally, the best way is to first make a traditional darkroom enlargement from the neg, then scan that print with a flatbed scanner.
Aside from the issues scanning silver halide B&W negs, I don't think it matters much whether you shoot color, then convert to B&W during post-processing or shoot B&W film... either can be done successfully. There's something very cool about visualizing a scene in B&W, establishing exposure using the Zone System and using filters to emphasize particular aspects of the scene, etc. But much the same can be done in post-processing adn that may be more "controllable"... allow you to try other options... as opposed to getting everything "just right" during exposure.
Just as an example, the image below was shot on film (either Velvia 50 or Ektachrom 100 VS). It was a dark, gloomy, rainy day... flat light. I was shooting fast handheld because it was cold and I was getting soaked. On film the image looks pretty bad! But I always thought it had some potential... scanned it and had some fun with it in Photoshop. After various adjustments and experimentation (incl. adding some "graininess" with a Nik filter), I'm pretty happy with the "moody" result...
I tried the above in B&W and sepia... didn't like it as well as the color rendition. If I'd shot it in B&W, I wouldn't have had the option to go back to color without extensive work.
Another example, I shot this in color digitally and planned to do a B&W conversion from the start. Ended up doing a sepia toned version, since that seemed most appropriate....
Finally, I shoot a lot of equestrian sports. B&W is popular with dressage, so I've made quite a few digital conversions. But sometimes a conversion is unnecessary, thanks to ambient conditions such as a morning fog....
Hope this helps!