burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC

Use a TRIPOD.
Remove any filter from the front of your lens! This will avoid ghost flares from light bouncing off the front lens element, onto the back of the filter, and then back through the lens.
Use a normal to wide angle lens if possible. Start with infinity focus, then focus on the first burst.
f/8 at ISO 100 to start, then chimp. Live view works fine.
BULB or TIME exposure (or a marked speed like 4 to 8 seconds)
Hold the shutter open long enough to record the rocket launch and the entire burst of a shell or two. Live view helps you time it well.
Stop down at least a stop or two for the finale!
Record raw images, or experiment with various white balance settings on the first few bursts, if you're recording JPEGs.
Watch the histogram. Fireworks will be more colorful if you adjust the aperture so they don't blow out the highlights.

Unless you have a foreground that would look weird with improper white balance, don't worry too much about it. I would NOT use AWB, because it will always shift in the opposite direction from the color of the shells you're photographing, which tends to wash out their colors toward gray. My best fireworks results were made with a relatively low color temperature WB. I like warmer colors. I used to photograph them on Tungsten-rated Ektachrome 64T slide film (3200K). Record raw images and you can dial in the effect you want in post-processing.

Ob1 Loc: Utah

Here’s my fireworks method:
Fireworks Photography
Tripod
Wireless remote
F stop 13
ISO 100
Shutter speed 5 sec.
Set lens focus on first shot using AF then set camera to manual focus and all shots will be in focus

Adjust your f stop up f16 if the shot is too light.

Adjust the shutter speed shorter or longer according to the background of fireworks. Longer shutter speed lighter background, shorter shutter speed darker background.

Adjust your f stop first.

Check out my website blog for more images.

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ggab Loc: ?

I did this once as an experiment.
I did remote view via a tablet cabled to my 7D, mounted on a tripod.
I shot with a 50mm. At the time, it was the widest lens I had.
I shot at f/1.8 as the 7d is rather noisy.
I shot raw, in manual mode. The shutter speeds were anywhere from 1/20 to 1/150. It was a rather cloudy/smoky night so light from the blasts reflecting from the clouds and smoke made some shots overexposed.

It was an interesting experiment.
None of these are successful in my opinion, I offer them up simply as an example of what I did and the settings used.
In retrospect, If I did this again, I would shoot at a higher f/stop and longer exposure with a wider lens.
Some samples

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iloveoliver

Well I have a relatively new Canon 7D Mark Ii. Unfortunately the remote control I used with my old T3i, didn’t fit the 7d. So no pictures. What a bummer..☹️ And it was an assignment for my photography class.

Rab-Eye Loc: Indiana

Thanks, all. I tried last night and have a few keepers, which I’ll post after I process them. The one thing I do not understand is why some say you must use the viewfinder. I’m not challenging you; I just want to understand you better. I did not use the viewfinder and it seem to work out pretty well.

Resqu2 Loc: SW Va

For my first time, which was earlier this week I just googled the subject and several people/sites said to not use live view. I only used the viewfinder initially then either did timed shots or bulb shots. Worked great for me

Rab-Eye Loc: Indiana

Right, but if you read this thread there’s a difference of opinion regarding using Live View. Seemed to be much more convenient to me, so I tried it and liked it.

ggab Loc: ?

I have since acquired a 7D MKii and I purchased the wireless adapter. While I lose a memory card slot, it works pretty well connecting to my tablet.
I use it for for nature photography, shooting remotely. This way I can hide behind a tree, and not be seen by the animal.

ppage Loc: Pittsburg, (San Francisco area)

I got good ones last night. Iso 200, f/11, 5 seconds, 150 mm
I used live view to focus. On my canon I can focus in live view when the lens is set to manual focus. I am presented with a focus box that I can move to any area of the frame and enlarge three times until I am quite zoomed in and focus on the fine details. Then I shoot after that knowing focus is set. I'm manual everything, white balance set to auto thoough.

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ggab Loc: ?

Nice

ggab Loc: ?

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Dngallagher Loc: Wilmington De.

Excellant captures!

ppage Loc: Pittsburg, (San Francisco area)

Yes, Like I said. If my lens is set to auto, the live view focus feature is turned off. The feature shows itself with a little magnifying glass icon in the live view screen. You have a question about that? I

ggab Loc: ?

I read it as you focus automatically by tapping the point on the screen in live view, with the lens in M. That was my question.
I presume, now, you manual focus the lens and check the focus point by zooming in on the LCD screen.

Ob1 Loc: Utah

I use Live View to set focus. For fireworks the viewfinder just doesn’t work for me. It might for you. The purpose is just to have fun.