UV filter/ND filter/polarizing filters.
Jun 28, 2018 18:47:19 #
I know I could google this, but lazy, board, and thought others might be interested in the difference’s and uses. Can you explain the difference’s and proper usage and applications. Very broad I know.
Jun 28, 2018 18:51:54 #
Jun 28, 2018 18:52:52 #
dyximan wrote:
I know I could google this, but lazy, board, and thought others might be interested in the difference’s and uses. Can you explain the difference’s and proper usage and applications. Very broad I know.
I'd tell you, but I'm too lazy to lay it all out for you. Google it.
Jun 28, 2018 19:01:45 #
Jun 28, 2018 19:46:38 #
dyximan wrote:
For me a UV filter is a protection filter for the front element of my lenses. The circular polarizer is a great filter, it’s a must-have in your bag. Its primary use is for landscape photography, though it can be useful for outdoor portrait scenes as well. This filter works by only allowing polarized light into the camera, that means light traveling from one direction. This has several effects on your photo.I know I could google this, but lazy, board, and thought others might be interested in the difference’s and uses. Can you explain the difference’s and proper usage and applications. Very broad I know.
Reflections – A circular polarizing filter can enhance or remove reflections from a scene, depending on what you desire. As you rotate the filter, you will see the reflection either increase or decrease.
Saturation – This filter can also add more saturation to your photo, giving it more impact with the viewer. You can adjust how much by rotating the filter.
Clouds – Related to the increase in saturation, is the enhancement of clouds. On days where there is a mixture of sky and cloud, this is especially effective.
I use a ND to hold back light on a bright sunny day to be able use the shutter speeds/Fstops I want to use.
Jun 28, 2018 23:35:22 #
dyximan wrote:
I know I could google this, but lazy, board, and thought others might be interested in the difference’s and uses. Can you explain the difference’s and proper usage and applications. Very broad I know.
In very simple terms:
UV : Really only useful for protecting the lens from fingerprints, flying sand and general crud.
ND: Currently the most popular use seems to be for smoothing water, milky waterfalls and/or dramatic clouds. Also good for when you want to use a wide aperture and/or slow shutter in bright light. Graduated ND's are good for 'protecting' the sky from overexposure.
Polarizers: Probably the most useful type. Good for reducing reflections off water, intensifying colors, blue skies. Not a cure-all. Effectiveness depends on angle to the sun, rotation of the filter and other factors.
Jun 29, 2018 00:25:47 #
The original use of UV filters for film photography was to get rid of a slight blue tint from UV light from the sky. Supposedly they are not necessary for that purpose with modern films. They are not necessary for that purpose for digital cameras. So the only use now is for protection, and even that is the subject of great debate here and elsewhere.
Jun 29, 2018 07:54:58 #
UV filter. I see no use with digital except for "protection" of the lens.
ND filter. Very useful to cut down the amount of light reaching the sensor. Used very often for the silky effect in water falls.
Polarizer. Cut-down or suppress reflections from non metallic surfaces. Saturate colors, Reduce haze. Saturates the blue sky when shooting at a 90 degrees from the sun.
ND filter. Very useful to cut down the amount of light reaching the sensor. Used very often for the silky effect in water falls.
Polarizer. Cut-down or suppress reflections from non metallic surfaces. Saturate colors, Reduce haze. Saturates the blue sky when shooting at a 90 degrees from the sun.
Jun 29, 2018 07:57:36 #
UHH opine fools are always eager to do work for the " but lazy, board," ... when the but lazy, board, could go to search at the top of the page and find many pages of the people who opine. I caution you do not google and read any definitive works on filters... understanding them is not for the "lazy" and you will be "board" with details and examples that are technically correct. Correct knowledge is not for the "lazy, board."
Jun 29, 2018 10:18:09 #
amfoto1
Loc: San Jose, Calif. USA
UV Filter... An Ultraviolet Filter serves little purpose other than to separate would-be digital photographers from more of their money. UV filtration isn't needed with digital, the way it was with film. People think the almost clear filter provides some sort of protection, though most of the time the lens cap and lens hood that came with their lens will actually provide far better protection than a thin piece of glass ever could. There are rare occasions when a UV filter might help reduce some atmospheric haze in a scenic shot, or when it might serve to protect a lens in a sand storm or at the beach because salt spray is difficult to clean off glass. I have high quality UV filters for my lenses stored in my camera bag, not on my lenses, but ready if needed... They are my least frequently used filters.
ND Filter....There are actually several types and various strengths of Neutral Density filters, which are pretty specialized. Standard ND are gray all over, simply designed to block some light. Fairly strong ones are used to allow slower shutter speeds and/or larger apertures to be used... to either blur moving objects such as flowing water or to create shallow depth of field effects. For still photography, usually one or two fairly strong ND are what's used... say a 3-stop and a 6-stop, which can be combined for 9-stops, if needed. There are also Variable ND filters, which have an adjustable range of effect. Those are more expensive and the more affordable ones which simply don't work very well, tend to have an uneven effect (called an "Iron Cross") and often cause ugly tints in images. Better quality Variable ND are extremely expensive and might be needed for videography, which has less exposure adjustability than still photography. Graduated ND are another type that were important for film photography. Those are half tinted, half clear to be able to reduce light in only a portion of the scene and were often used to "hold back" too bright skies in scenic shots. They typically come in 1, 2 and 3-stop strengths. But there's little need for them shooting digital. Now you can use multiple exposures or multi-process a single shot and do a much more accurate and controlled job balancing an image, than was ever possible with the filters. Finally, there are also Center Spot ND filters, which were needed with some lenses when shooting film to hold back the center of images, with lenses that tend to vignette strongly. These filters tended to be very expensive, so it's a good thing that they are largely unnecessary for digital photography. Many modern cameras and post-processing software easily and automatically correct for lenses that tend to vignette heavily.
Circular Polarizing Filters are probably the single most useful type of filter in the age of digital photography. They can do things that are difficult or impossible to replicate digitally in post-processing and have a variety of possible uses. There are also Linear Polarizers, but those prevent camera's auto focus systems from working properly and in some cases skew metering systems, too. A C-Pol allows both AF and metering to work properly. A Polarizing Filter blocks oblique or "scattered" light, while allowing "aligned" light to pass through to make the image. This reduces reflections off water, deepens the blue of the sky, improves contrast and color saturation in foliage, can help with portraits of people who wear eyeglasses or have "shiny" skin, and much more. C-Pol rotate to "dial in" stronger or weaker effect. The only negative is that standard C-Pol block one or two stops of light (depending upon how the filter is adjusted), and that the filter's effect can be uneven in certain circumstances. It's strongest at 90 degrees from the light source, has no effect when pointed directly at or 180 degrees from the light source. For example, if the sun is low and setting in the West, you'll see strongest effecting pointing your camera and lens due North or South, but no effect at all pointing them West or East. With wide angle lenses that capture a broad view, this can cause the filter's effect to be uneven, which can be particularly noticeable in large areas of even tonality like a clear blue sky. This isn't necessary a bad thing, just something to be aware of and watch for in the viewfinder. Also, there are a new type of C-Pol now being offered, called "High Transmissive". These simply have a lighter tint to them and block less light... typically allow between 1/4 and one stop more light to pass through that standard strength C-Pol do. This can be the difference between being able to use the filter and get the shot or not, in some low light conditions. Or it may allow you to use a lower ISO that has less noise and will make for better images.
So I would recommend anyone shooting digital images first get a C-Pol filter to fit their lens(es) and learn to use it. Don't skimp. So few filters are needed for digital photography that there's little reason not to spend the money for a high quality, multi-coated filter that will produce the best possible image quality. Some people who use different size lenses will buy one filter to fit the largest, then use "step rings" to fit it to smaller diameter lenses, too. Personally I avoid that because it means you can't use lens hoods on the lenses when using a step ring, and a lens hood is even more important when using filters, to protect the filter from oblique light and bumps, too. I think it's best to buy C-Pol in the correct size for each lens there are wanted upon. But you may not need them for all your lenses. I find I primarily and most frequently use them with wide angle to normal lenses.... a lot less with short telephotos and very rarely with more powerful telephotos and macro photography.
ND Filters may or may not be needed because they're pretty specialized. One or two fairly strong ones may be wanted for particular effects in still photos, a wider variety of strengths or a Variable ND might be wanted for videography. Other types are of little use for digital. The Graduated ND filters I used for years while shooting film, I haven't used at all in recent years. Shooting digital images, there are other ways to achieve better results than were ever possible with those filters. Since learning several techniques, I've stopped using my Grad NDs.
If using a UV filter to "protect" your lens makes you happy and less worried about getting out and shooting more photos, by all means get and use one. It's not really going to provide much protection (lens cap and lens hood do far better) and it will effect some images to some extent (buy only high quality, multi-coated to keep effect on images to a minimum), and it should be removed for some types of shots (sunrises, sunsets) or when using another type of filter on the lens. I just wouldn't make a UV filter very high priority.
Most other filters are unnecessary shooting digital. For example, color correction and color conversion are more easily and accurately handled with camera White Balance options. Special effects such as soft focus, color tints and more can be added easily in post-processing.
ND Filter....There are actually several types and various strengths of Neutral Density filters, which are pretty specialized. Standard ND are gray all over, simply designed to block some light. Fairly strong ones are used to allow slower shutter speeds and/or larger apertures to be used... to either blur moving objects such as flowing water or to create shallow depth of field effects. For still photography, usually one or two fairly strong ND are what's used... say a 3-stop and a 6-stop, which can be combined for 9-stops, if needed. There are also Variable ND filters, which have an adjustable range of effect. Those are more expensive and the more affordable ones which simply don't work very well, tend to have an uneven effect (called an "Iron Cross") and often cause ugly tints in images. Better quality Variable ND are extremely expensive and might be needed for videography, which has less exposure adjustability than still photography. Graduated ND are another type that were important for film photography. Those are half tinted, half clear to be able to reduce light in only a portion of the scene and were often used to "hold back" too bright skies in scenic shots. They typically come in 1, 2 and 3-stop strengths. But there's little need for them shooting digital. Now you can use multiple exposures or multi-process a single shot and do a much more accurate and controlled job balancing an image, than was ever possible with the filters. Finally, there are also Center Spot ND filters, which were needed with some lenses when shooting film to hold back the center of images, with lenses that tend to vignette strongly. These filters tended to be very expensive, so it's a good thing that they are largely unnecessary for digital photography. Many modern cameras and post-processing software easily and automatically correct for lenses that tend to vignette heavily.
Circular Polarizing Filters are probably the single most useful type of filter in the age of digital photography. They can do things that are difficult or impossible to replicate digitally in post-processing and have a variety of possible uses. There are also Linear Polarizers, but those prevent camera's auto focus systems from working properly and in some cases skew metering systems, too. A C-Pol allows both AF and metering to work properly. A Polarizing Filter blocks oblique or "scattered" light, while allowing "aligned" light to pass through to make the image. This reduces reflections off water, deepens the blue of the sky, improves contrast and color saturation in foliage, can help with portraits of people who wear eyeglasses or have "shiny" skin, and much more. C-Pol rotate to "dial in" stronger or weaker effect. The only negative is that standard C-Pol block one or two stops of light (depending upon how the filter is adjusted), and that the filter's effect can be uneven in certain circumstances. It's strongest at 90 degrees from the light source, has no effect when pointed directly at or 180 degrees from the light source. For example, if the sun is low and setting in the West, you'll see strongest effecting pointing your camera and lens due North or South, but no effect at all pointing them West or East. With wide angle lenses that capture a broad view, this can cause the filter's effect to be uneven, which can be particularly noticeable in large areas of even tonality like a clear blue sky. This isn't necessary a bad thing, just something to be aware of and watch for in the viewfinder. Also, there are a new type of C-Pol now being offered, called "High Transmissive". These simply have a lighter tint to them and block less light... typically allow between 1/4 and one stop more light to pass through that standard strength C-Pol do. This can be the difference between being able to use the filter and get the shot or not, in some low light conditions. Or it may allow you to use a lower ISO that has less noise and will make for better images.
So I would recommend anyone shooting digital images first get a C-Pol filter to fit their lens(es) and learn to use it. Don't skimp. So few filters are needed for digital photography that there's little reason not to spend the money for a high quality, multi-coated filter that will produce the best possible image quality. Some people who use different size lenses will buy one filter to fit the largest, then use "step rings" to fit it to smaller diameter lenses, too. Personally I avoid that because it means you can't use lens hoods on the lenses when using a step ring, and a lens hood is even more important when using filters, to protect the filter from oblique light and bumps, too. I think it's best to buy C-Pol in the correct size for each lens there are wanted upon. But you may not need them for all your lenses. I find I primarily and most frequently use them with wide angle to normal lenses.... a lot less with short telephotos and very rarely with more powerful telephotos and macro photography.
ND Filters may or may not be needed because they're pretty specialized. One or two fairly strong ones may be wanted for particular effects in still photos, a wider variety of strengths or a Variable ND might be wanted for videography. Other types are of little use for digital. The Graduated ND filters I used for years while shooting film, I haven't used at all in recent years. Shooting digital images, there are other ways to achieve better results than were ever possible with those filters. Since learning several techniques, I've stopped using my Grad NDs.
If using a UV filter to "protect" your lens makes you happy and less worried about getting out and shooting more photos, by all means get and use one. It's not really going to provide much protection (lens cap and lens hood do far better) and it will effect some images to some extent (buy only high quality, multi-coated to keep effect on images to a minimum), and it should be removed for some types of shots (sunrises, sunsets) or when using another type of filter on the lens. I just wouldn't make a UV filter very high priority.
Most other filters are unnecessary shooting digital. For example, color correction and color conversion are more easily and accurately handled with camera White Balance options. Special effects such as soft focus, color tints and more can be added easily in post-processing.
Jun 29, 2018 10:30:04 #
dyximan wrote:
\I know I could google this, but lazy, board, and thought others might be interested in the difference’s and uses. Can you explain the difference’s and proper usage and applications. Very broad I know.
I'll play...what do YOU think the differences and uses are
Jun 29, 2018 10:36:51 #
I agree with amphoto 1. I definitely do not recommend a UV filter to protect your lens. I think even the best ones interfere with the quality of the image. Since I always use a lens hood with all my lenses, that protects them far better than a filter, and doesn't cause the problems that the UV filter does.
Jun 29, 2018 14:11:02 #
Jun 29, 2018 15:20:59 #
Because you asked for proper usage and applications, read this, especially the last line.
board
bôrd/
noun
noun: board; plural noun: boards
1.
a long, thin, flat piece of wood or other hard material, used for floors or other building purposes.
"loose boards creaked as I walked on them"
synonyms: plank, beam, panel, slat, batten, timber, lath
"a wooden board"
informal
the stage of a theater.
plural noun: the boards
2.
a thin, flat, rectangular piece of wood or other stiff material used for various purposes, in particular.
a vertical surface on which to write or pin notices.
a horizontal surface on which to cut things, play games, or perform other activities.
a flat insulating sheet used as a mounting for an electronic circuit.
"a graphics board"
the piece of equipment on which a person stands in surfing, skateboarding, snowboarding, and certain other sports.
the wooden structure surrounding an ice-hockey rink.
Basketball
informal term for backboard, referring specifically to rebounding.
"the absence of center David Robinson to dominate on the boards"
pieces of thick stiff cardboard or, originally, wood used for book covers.
3.
a group of people constituted as the decision-making body of an organization.
"he sits on the board of directors"
synonyms: committee, council, panel, directorate, commission, executive, group
"the board of directors"
4.
the provision of regular meals when one stays somewhere, in return for payment or services.
"your room and board will be free"
synonyms: food, meals, provisions, diet, table, bread, rations; More
keep, maintenance;
informalgrub, nosh, eats, chow
"your room and board will be free"
archaic
a table set for a meal.
5.
Sailing
a distance covered by a vessel in a single tack.
verb
verb: board; 3rd person present: boards; past tense: boarded; past participle: boarded; gerund or present participle: boarding
1.
get on or into (a ship, aircraft, or other vehicle).
"we boarded the plane for Oslo"
synonyms: get on, go aboard, enter, mount, ascend; More
embark, emplane, entrain;
catch;
informalhop on
"he boarded the aircraft"
(of an aircraft) be ready for passengers to embark.
"flight 172 to Istanbul is now boarding at gate 37"
2.
live and receive regular meals in a house in return for payment or services.
"the cousins boarded for a while with Ruby"
synonyms: lodge, live, reside, be housed, room; More
informalbe put up
"a number of students boarded with them"
accommodate, lodge, take in, put up, house;
keep, feed, cater to, billet
"they run a facility for boarding dogs"
(of a student) live at school during the semester in return for payment.
provide (a person or animal) with regular meals and somewhere to live in return for payment.
"dogs may have to be boarded at kennels"
3.
cover or seal a window, storefront, or other structure with pieces of wood.
"the shop was still boarded up"
synonyms: cover up/over, close up, shut up, seal
"shoreline residents are boarding up their windows"
4.
ride on a snowboard.
Origin
Old English bord, of Germanic origin; related to Dutch boord and German Bort ; reinforced in Middle English by Old French bort ‘edge, ship's side’ and Old Norse borth ‘board, table.’
Translate board to
Tip
Similar-sounding words
board is sometimes confused with bored
board
bôrd/
noun
noun: board; plural noun: boards
1.
a long, thin, flat piece of wood or other hard material, used for floors or other building purposes.
"loose boards creaked as I walked on them"
synonyms: plank, beam, panel, slat, batten, timber, lath
"a wooden board"
informal
the stage of a theater.
plural noun: the boards
2.
a thin, flat, rectangular piece of wood or other stiff material used for various purposes, in particular.
a vertical surface on which to write or pin notices.
a horizontal surface on which to cut things, play games, or perform other activities.
a flat insulating sheet used as a mounting for an electronic circuit.
"a graphics board"
the piece of equipment on which a person stands in surfing, skateboarding, snowboarding, and certain other sports.
the wooden structure surrounding an ice-hockey rink.
Basketball
informal term for backboard, referring specifically to rebounding.
"the absence of center David Robinson to dominate on the boards"
pieces of thick stiff cardboard or, originally, wood used for book covers.
3.
a group of people constituted as the decision-making body of an organization.
"he sits on the board of directors"
synonyms: committee, council, panel, directorate, commission, executive, group
"the board of directors"
4.
the provision of regular meals when one stays somewhere, in return for payment or services.
"your room and board will be free"
synonyms: food, meals, provisions, diet, table, bread, rations; More
keep, maintenance;
informalgrub, nosh, eats, chow
"your room and board will be free"
archaic
a table set for a meal.
5.
Sailing
a distance covered by a vessel in a single tack.
verb
verb: board; 3rd person present: boards; past tense: boarded; past participle: boarded; gerund or present participle: boarding
1.
get on or into (a ship, aircraft, or other vehicle).
"we boarded the plane for Oslo"
synonyms: get on, go aboard, enter, mount, ascend; More
embark, emplane, entrain;
catch;
informalhop on
"he boarded the aircraft"
(of an aircraft) be ready for passengers to embark.
"flight 172 to Istanbul is now boarding at gate 37"
2.
live and receive regular meals in a house in return for payment or services.
"the cousins boarded for a while with Ruby"
synonyms: lodge, live, reside, be housed, room; More
informalbe put up
"a number of students boarded with them"
accommodate, lodge, take in, put up, house;
keep, feed, cater to, billet
"they run a facility for boarding dogs"
(of a student) live at school during the semester in return for payment.
provide (a person or animal) with regular meals and somewhere to live in return for payment.
"dogs may have to be boarded at kennels"
3.
cover or seal a window, storefront, or other structure with pieces of wood.
"the shop was still boarded up"
synonyms: cover up/over, close up, shut up, seal
"shoreline residents are boarding up their windows"
4.
ride on a snowboard.
Origin
Old English bord, of Germanic origin; related to Dutch boord and German Bort ; reinforced in Middle English by Old French bort ‘edge, ship's side’ and Old Norse borth ‘board, table.’
Translate board to
Tip
Similar-sounding words
board is sometimes confused with bored
Jun 29, 2018 15:48:11 #
wdross
Loc: Castle Rock, Colorado
dyximan wrote:
I know I could google this, but lazy, board, and thought others might be interested in the difference’s and uses. Can you explain the difference’s and proper usage and applications. Very broad I know.
All the previous information given is accurate except for UV. There are a few of us that are at 5000' or greater. Digital sensors tend to be insensitive to UV to a certain degree. But at higher altitudes, where there are high enough levels of UV, it can start to effect one's image. A lot of people say just correct it by taking away a little on the blue slider. But it is not as perfect as a filter since the filter blocks some of the UV bouncing off particles in the air. And some people like a filter on no matter what as a form of protection. If you are below 5000', a UV filter is really only useful as a protective filter (some will consider it a separation of you from your money). If you will be taking photographs above 5000' on a regular basis, it could be a useful filter in the long run. "Half a dozen of one, six of the other" might be a good phrase here.
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