dino21 Loc: McAllen, TX

thanks for the answer

dino21 Loc: McAllen, TX

Of course I dont know nearly as much as you do....thats why I am asking... I told you I dont know much..I just want to make sure when I take the shot I am not forgetting some setting in the camera that needs to be set is set. I am, trying to learn. Yes i know that I will never have your expertise. Thanks to all of those who have worked with me though trying to give constructive advise without demeaning me.

R.G. Loc: Scotland

If you click on | Quote Reply | under the post that you want to reply to, we'll know who you're responding to.

bpulv Loc: Buena Park, CA

I agree, but would add the following:

10. Make sure your monitor is properly calibrated for both color gamut and brightness using a calibration tool such as a Spyder Pro+. This will insure that what you see on your monitor during editing will match what you see on the final print.
11. After editing, convert the color gamut to the color gamut of the printer the processing lab uses. Most quality and professional labs will provide you with the software that can be imported to Photo Shop's "assign profile" function that will allow you to easily make the conversion.

dino21 Loc: McAllen, TX

Thanks to some of you for the truly helpful responses. I can see this is not the forum for me as it seems to be more of a forum for mainly arrogant people only interested showing how they are sooo smart and not for helping others without being insulting. I wish you all well and I hope you can all sit around and talk about how great you all are to each other. In the meantime, I will talk to people who are genuinely helpful and knowledgeably and willing to share. Good Luck all.

via the lens Loc: Northern California, near Yosemite NP

Hi, bpulv,

I don't think the user writing the original post would know what you mean by "color gamut." When I export I choose sRGB as my color space as this is what the printers that I use want. I also don't think this particular person is using Photoshop but good advice for PS users. Too many darn variables in photography and so much to learn.

Photocraig

Dino,
It is clear that this photo opportunity is very important to you. The making of a panoramic photo digital file is the first step in the process. From what I'm reading, I don't believe you are familiar with the basics of the process. This is easy to remedy.

I suggest you set your camera up in a convenient location, Shoot a set of vertical images with a 50mm (or so lens) overlapping by 30% (the consensus I've read) capturing RAW files. Focus the camera for the first shot 1/3 into the scene, with a aperture like f8 or f11. Then turn off your auto focus--you don't want the camera to re-focus as your shoot the other exposures. Same thing for exposure. Set the proper exposure and switch to manual "M" mode and dial in the settings. Google Panoramic photo tutorial, you will learn more.

Then, take the Photos into a Post Processing program, I use Lightroom, and edit the photo you think is most representative of the set. Then Synch them up (use help). You now have 3-7 photos all with the same focus and exposure characteristics. Then use the Merge facility. Now you've done a panoramic. It is super easy. I did one on my first outing with a DSLR--and couldn't believe it, either!

As far as format, You will most likely be sending your printer the Panoramic file in jpeg format. THEY and THEY ALONE will guide you with what they want. It will be a BIG file, so be sure you know how they want to receive it.

I suggest you do this project to gain an understanding of the process--it should take an hour of your time. It will familiarize you with the actual operations and enable you to ask questions in the form that will allow your Lab, and UHH members to more easily answer your questions in a meaningful way that will help you get what you want.

Right now, it seems to me, that this process is so nebulous to you that you are having difficulty grasping a way to ask your questions in a meaningful way. I see myself in your questions from 4 years ago when I started my Digital Journey. After your project you'll have a smile on your face. THEN go do the photoshoot of your dreams and buy an nice expensive Pano with more confidence.

By the way, this project (the real one) will result in an expensive print. There is plenty of reason to expect your chosen lab to walk you through this. And there is beyond an Emperor's wealth of info and guidance on YouTube and Google. And the Adobe Help tutorials are very good.

Short answer, this ain't no snapshot. But everything is there to help make you successful. I think you're a little behind the knowledge curve. I also know that is easily rectified.

Good luck, and share the results.
C

PS: Always listen to Gene51!!!! Always.

sueyeisert Loc: New Jersey

Shoot raw plus jpeg fine that way you have all options. You need practice lots of it since you are asking the question you are asking. After your editing you’ll export the photo that’s when you define how you want the photo exported ie jpeg,tiff etc.

billnikon Loc: Pennsylvania/Ohio/Florida/Maui/Oregon/Vermont

I sold my D7200 and I don't remember if there was two slots or one for memory cards. If their is, why not assign one to jpeg fine and one to raw and blast away. Of course, you will have to load both memory card slots with memory cards to accomplish this.

wteffey Loc: Ocala, FL USA

If you are still with us, break this project down into small steps. You first task is to get your best effort(s) "in the can" as my first instructor like to say. I would use both RAW and (best) JPEG. If you are experienced I would recommend f4.0 and lowest ISO, letting shutter float as necessary. If you are unsure about this, AUTO will probably give you at least usable results. (This will generate a lot of contrary advice, so be prepared) If you disagree you probably already know more than I so read no further. Once you have your best file make sure the original is somewhere safe (even on a dedicated USB drive if necessary) so that there is no chance of overwriting it. I have photos taken a decade ago that I still pull out and work again as my processing skills improve. If you are going to do your own processing start with the JPEG's. RAW files are 3-4 times larger and take more time and resources to process. If the JPEG.s do not give you the desired results you can always go back and start with RAW. You will have to convert RAW to JPEG for printing, but you might find you can do this better than the camera did.

dsmeltz Loc: Philadelphia

The advice you got here seems to cover everything, except the incorrect information offered by someone who said "A panorama is no different than a single shot = RAW." A stitched panorama from multiple shots can provide much higher resolution than a single shot. As a result the ability to print at a larger size is enhanced. Think of it this way, if you print six different pictures at 8x10 and put them next to each other you might have a 24x30 print at the detail of an 8x10. If you blow up a single 8x10 to 24x30 the per square inch resolution drops.

rmalarz Loc: Tempe, Arizona

For panoramic photos, put all the settings on manual for the entire series of photos you intend to use. The attached example is what happens when you let the camera choose aperture, shutter speed, and focus. Note the bands of dark and light, etc. That can prove very difficult to remove in processing.

Additionally, make sure you rotate the camera around the nodal point of the lens.
--Bob

(Download)

Peterff Loc: O'er The Hills and Far Away, in Themyscira.

👍

Peterff Loc: O'er The Hills and Far Away, in Themyscira.

👍👍, especially always listen to Gene51

loosecanon Loc: Central Texas

Gene, you have the patience of a saint.